Island life on Isabela

So we have the diving adventure behind us and both of our ears hurt more or less. Probably just a slight infection from the water and the super air conditioning on board the cruise - we try to prevent the worst with ear drops.

After one day on Santa Cruz, we took the crossing to Isabela on one of the speedboats. The journey in the early morning takes just under 2 hours, is rather bumpy and despite the early hour, the sun is already very intense. Mathias gets one of the best seats - or NOT - and sits in the wind shadow directly in the sun. Accordingly, we arrive at the last of the three large inhabited islands of the Galapagos drenched in sweat. Isabela is a bit simpler and more relaxed than the two islands with large airports Santa Cruz and San Cristobal. Here we want to relax for almost a week and engage in various activities on land and in the water.

Cash...

First, we have to solve a problem. We have no more money - to be precise, we have no cash with us and there is no ATM for foreigners here on Isabela. No one kindly told us that, so we arrived with $25 in our pocket. You can use credit cards in some restaurants, etc., but we don't want to pay a fee of 10-20% every time. The only option seems to be Western Union, so we try to send money to ourselves. That works more or less. Firstly, the Wi-Fi here is pretty slow everywhere, which makes an online transaction a test of patience, and secondly, Western Union always wants identification from us and we can only make a single maximum payment of $200. That is by no means enough for the prices here on Galapagos, so we keep trying. In the end, a local acquaintance of Seraina, whom she knows from her first stay here 8 years ago, helps us and we transfer him money via Paypal, which he then pays out to us in his store.

Snorkeling in "Los Tuneles"

So we have money and can also eat and do things. We take our first excursion with a boat to the lava tunnels on the coast of Isabela. Here you can snorkel wonderfully and despite the somewhat poor visibility in the water, we see some reef sharks taking a siesta in a cave, dozens of huge sea turtles feeding underwater, and even two cool seahorses. A short walk on land is also part of the program and here we once again see the fantastic blue-footed boobies nesting.

Stand-up Paddle

With Seraina's acquaintance, we also book a SUP tour for one afternoon. It starts in the harbor of the island and for three hours we paddle and snorkel around the many small lava islands "Tintoreros". We see some cute Galapagos penguins, a reef shark, a small jumping ray, and some fish, including cool porcupine, puffer, and scorpion fish. At the end of the evening, we have a delicious asado at the shop Bike & Surf with Junior and Emelie.

Volcano Tour Sierra Negra

For a change, dry program for a day - or at least a morning. We drive early in the morning with the minibus about 30 minutes towards Sierra Negra. It is one of many volcanoes on the Galapagos, but the only one that tourists can visit. When we arrive at the parking lot, we march up to the crater with the group of about 15 travelers and our guide. It is a fairly pleasant ascent - not too steep and about 9 kilometers long to the turning point. In the beginning, it drizzles, then it rains again, and a few minutes later the sun shines. It is very diverse up here in the highlands of the island. When we reach the edge of the crater, the fog opens for a few moments and we see the impressive crater for the first time. With a diameter of around 11 kilometers and filled with black lava stones, it is like a big black hole. Toxic vapors rise in one or the other place - but at a safe distance for us. The volcano is still considered active, the last eruption was just last year. Our guide gives us some information and shows us a video of the last eruption. Now we are standing on the lava waterfall, which glowed orange into the crater back then. It is a very impressive landscape and the weather even gets so good that we have a view from the crater to the Elizabeth Bay and the north coast of Isabela. There are small hills all around - all volcanoes - and it really feels a bit like being on another planet.

We enjoy the descent in the best weather and back in Puerto Villamil it is so hot that we immediately jump into our AirBnB and put on our bathing suits to cool off in the sea right in front of our door.

Cycling on our own

For our last day on Isabela Island, we rented two bikes. After breakfast, we're off - it's not quite as hot yet and we cycle the 6 km to the Muro de los Lagrimas (Wall of Tears). In earlier times, a prison colony was operated here and the wall was left as a monument. A viewpoint offers a great view of the coastal region and other stops along the way take us past mangroves, small ponds, and the island's amazing animal residents for the last time. We encounter some giant tortoises and iguanas. On the way back, Seraina suddenly gets a flat tire in the rear - but fortunately we are almost back in town. Mathias returns both bikes and Seraina's is repaired. Now we want to make a short detour to the Flamingo Lake. On the way, Seraina gets another flat at the rear. We make it to the lake just in time, but unfortunately there are no flamingos there today. The way back is short and we return the bikes. The air is out - also with us. We jump into the cooling sea in front of our accommodation and read in the hammock. A relaxed last afternoon.

In the evening, we meet some acquaintances of Seraina again and say goodbye to Isabela. Tomorrow we will return via Santa Cruz to San Cristobal.