Lonely island, but no sign of loneliness
As we've temporarily said goodbye to self-cooking, we're curious every morning about what breakfast will bring. Today it's exceptional again. There's even a menu and a buffet,...


Published: 11.07.2025
The morning starts with gray clouds. Uhhh....are these the first signs of the coming days? We are on our way to the Ring of Kerry, allegedly the most beautiful landscape in Ireland, and rain and fog are expected to arrive on Sunday. That fits ;). Well, let's wait and see. Let's take today first, which suddenly bursts with sunshine through the gray clouds. Our host is super nice; she even suggests carrying our luggage to the next B&B. It's not that heavy, or do we look that exhausted? Our bike bags weigh a total of about 9 kg per person, so they are lightweight. We only have the essentials along with a stove, tent, and sleeping bag. Although with age, certain necessities against the challenges of aging are added, the Voltaren tube is getting bigger, and the reading glasses are, of course, a must.
We start well-fed, with Irish breakfast along Eurovelo 1 towards Dursey Island, the western end of Beara Island.
The landscape is breathtaking, thoroughly Irish. We can't get enough of the green meadows, steep cliffs, small villages, the seemingly endless blue Atlantic, and on top of that, pure sunshine. Our host recommended a stop at the Buddhist center on the cliffs for the view. We did so, but disappeared quickly after 5 minutes. We were smoked out, and everyone wanted to warmly welcome us to relax. Let's get out of here, and nothing against the people who spend a lot, very much money to buy their peace. We prefer the magic of the rugged Irish coast and relax for free watching the sheep graze peacefully.
At the western tip of the island, we are greeted by THE sight: the only cable car in Ireland, which goes over the cliffs to another island. No ferry can operate due to the cliffs and strong currents. Here too, we quickly disappear; too touristy, and we are very hungry as well; after all, we had to go quite steeply upward, and Anja's jammed chain didn't make it easier. Thanks, Peter, for the quick repair! You owe a Guinness.
Garinsh Beach was our beach of the day. Hardly any people, sandy beach, and blue water, with soda bread and cheese from the backpack. How simple and Irish tasty life is.
We can relax, even without an expensive Buddhist retreat, and almost forget to continue. Fortunately, it's not far now, just steep, but that’s nothing new.
The landscape glows gold and green, and we reach our day's destination, Allihies: a colorful village right by the Atlantic, a street buzzing with life, benches for the pub on the left and right, a village shop, a food truck with freshly caught fish (which we, of course, ate), and the most marvelous view of the sea.
After checking in at the Coppers Mine Lodge, we quickly wash our clothes and immediately disappear into the village pub. There is a lively atmosphere. We sit outside until the sun goes down, drink beer, laugh, and chat, just relaxed. At nine, there's live music inside from a local, well, let’s say, band. There are six women and one man, sitting together, drinking beer, and playing Irish folk music. Everyone is happy; they know each other and laugh. We laugh and sing along, or something like that. Everything is forgotten; only the moment matters, and that feels happy, Irish, and very relaxed. Riding through this vast and splendid landscape with open eyes and feeling the kindness of the people is worth more to us than any purchased minute of peace in a monastery. Namaste!
Route: Castletownbere - Allihies via Dursey
Kilometers: 42 kilometers
Elevation: 660