2025-08-03 São Jorge, Azores

2.8.25 Arrival from Terceira by ferry. The first thing we see from São Jorge is the lighthouse at the southern tip. From here, the mountains rise steeply from the coast to 600 meters. There are only a few houses in sight. In Calheta, the ferry has to dock backwards again. Ulla has ordered us a taxi, which arrives after ten minutes and takes us the three kilometers to the campsite for ten euros. It is right by the sea, and the bar is well-attended. We book for six nights and can choose a spot. We pitch the tent under trees facing the washroom. With a cold beer in hand, we watch the sunset. Everything worked out perfectly again!
3.8.25 Calheta Circular hiking trail 8.5 km, 470 m elevation gain. I wake up at 7 o'clock and get acquainted with the gas stove. We have breakfast on the rooftop terrace above the washroom. We take it slow and chat with other German-speaking people. Shortly after 10 o'clock, we start on the circular path around Calheta. The small road turns into a footpath and leads steeply up the slope in a zigzag. We pass several natural springs and cross the main road in Biscoitos. Behind the cemetery, we slowly descend through willows. There are numerous views of the Pico volcano on the neighboring island. We cross the main road again, and now we take the old cobbled road steeply down past a park and a large cross to the harbor. There, Ulla gets her coffee, and I have the chance to drink one too. On our way back, we walk over the new road covered in red gravel. It is in full sun and very warm. After a detour to the supermarket and a look at the sardine factory, we reach the campsite and go for a swim. I cook dinner under the large new pavilion. We have potatoes with carrots and ground meat. For sunset, we sit again at the swimming spot. I should actually work on my blog, but I prefer to enjoy the company of Ulla.
4.8.25 Calheta <-> Urzelina, Tourada a Corda, 9 km + hitchhiking. After I get up, Ulla falls asleep again. I set her coffee in front of the tent and do sun salutations on the rooftop terrace. Today we want to watch the Tourada in Urzelina. We could take the only bus to Velas at 8:15, but that’s too early for us, and we want to have a leisurely breakfast. So we walk to Calheta and hitchhike. An open Jeep picks us up to the gas station on the main road above the village. There, we have to wait 20 minutes until we get the next lift towards Velas. The driver stops in between and closes a cow deal from the car. A thick stack of 100 notes is handed over in an envelope. 1500 euros are counted. Above Manadas, we get out and walk down the streets to the harbor. We walk around the closed church and the harbor basin, head to the windmill, and discover a mobile bar. Under the trees, tables and hammocks invite us to linger. On our way to Urzelina, we start sweating again. We use the swimming area in the harbor and shower in the bathing facility above before sitting down in the shade of the trees. We ask again about the Tora and are directed to the church. Most people sit on the terrace in front of the church. But many people also sit across at the house. The entrances between the houses are blocked. We sit on the wall below the church and try to understand how the Tourada unfolds. Four green boxes are brought on a truck and unloaded by a tractor. Inside are the bulls. They stomp excitedly with their hooves. Men in white shirts with large black hats will hold the first bull on a rope. One can still walk through the street until the honking of a compressed air trumpet sounds. The first bull comes out and runs after the torero, who teases it with an umbrella or cloth. The bull partially slips on the asphalt when the torero makes a turn. After about 100 meters, the bull is pulled back on a rope, and both come back up the street, exhausted. Now it is once again locked in the box, and there is a 20-minute break. Opportunity to buy doughnuts or beer. We change our seat and watch the second bullfight. Then we head up to the main road and hitchhike back. We have to walk the last three kilometers to the campsite, stopping at the restaurant Calhetense on the way. I choose the unknown Pika Pau. Sliced meat with cheese chunks, olives, and vegetables. In the last meters, the sun sets. I have a shower and then disappear into the tent.
5.8.25 Calheta, hike to the coffee plantation, 2+7.5+2 km, -730+350 m elevation gain. At breakfast, we say goodbye to the other Germans, who are traveling further today. We walk to the intersection and hitchhike with two cars on the country road southeast. From here, a hiking trail leads down to Fajã dos Vimes. The path initially goes through lush hydrangea hedges and then steeply down through well-maintained paths. In the lower part, we follow the roadway to the small pier. There, we jump directly into the water, then eat in the shade of the trees in front of the church. Of course, we must try the strong coffee from our own production at Café Nunes. Unfortunately, the coastal hiking trail has been closed for some time. So we climb up to the road and follow it to Portal. The sun is blazing, and we are grateful for any shade. In a small garden, between pumpkins and pineapples, I take a nap. After another short stop at Portal on a terrace with a view and shade, we find a car that takes us back to Calheta. The last two kilometers we again have to walk along the unfinished road. On the way, we do some shopping. The campsite looks a bit empty, and we can store our purchases in the refrigerator. To cool off, we jump directly into the sea. I cook pasta with tuna, tomato, and peppers under the pavilion, then we go to write in the journal and watch the sunset on the rocks.