Pure nature in the south of Laos🌿

The next chapter takes us deep into the south of Laos, to the city of Pakse. We start our journey from Vientiane around eight o'clock in the evening in a large tuktuk to the local bus station. The wind blows through our hair wonderfully, while the driver skillfully avoids the many potholes on the road. The comfortable ride ends after 20 minutes at the bus station. After a short wait, we settle into our bed on the bus. It's a bit small, but still comfortable, as we wait for the Sandman.

Exhausted and somewhat confused, we arrive in Pakse at 06:30 AM. We could have easily slept for another two hours. As soon as we get off the bus, the tuktuk drivers besiege us. With one eye still closed, we gratefully reject their exorbitant price offers because our hotel, with the creative name ''Pakse Hotel'', is just a few minutes' walk from the bus station. Plus, I need a cigarette before I can speak. After a short walk, we drop off our backpacks at the hotel and go to the nearest cafe to fortify ourselves. Since the room is not ready yet, we have another cup of coffee.

Refreshed but still a bit tired, we check into our room on the fifth floor. The first impression of Pakse is a bit disappointing. The city is not exactly a gem, it's dirty everywhere and everything looks a little run-down. But if you go a little further up, it already looks better. From the rooftop terrace of the hotel, you have a great view of the city. Green mountains and a river with a long stone bridge adorn the landscape. And of course, it's even better during the daily happy hour.

The main reason for going to Pakse is the Bolaven Plateau. The plateau covers an area of 10,000 km2 and is 1,200 meters high. The name comes from the indigenous group that lives there. (Bolaven = homeland of the Laven) After the first night, we're supposed to go there, but unfortunately, Buddha doesn't bless us for this venture, which later turned out to be a stroke of luck. We can't get a scooter from the local rental shop, even though they promised us one the night before. Everything is already gone at the next rental shop as well. So we look for a group tour in a minivan, but it's already too late or too expensive for that too. A bit disappointed, we go back to our accommodation. After a short discussion, we decide to extend our stay by one night to still see the plateau. We book a group tour for the next day and just relax for today.

The next day starts early, a minivan arrives at our hotel at half past seven. We drive for about 40 minutes to the first attraction, and on the way, we realize how uncomfortable our planned scooter tour would have been the day before. We traverse about 10 km of construction site, of course in Laos style. Huge clouds of dust trail behind every vehicle, enveloping the motorbike riders following behind in a thick cloud of dirt. We arrive at a huge waterfall called Tad Fane feeling very relaxed. After a short moment of awe and admiration, I take out my quadcopter and let it soar into the sky. After five meters of flying, I notice that it keeps sinking, even though I'm trying to countersteer upwards. The strong gusts of wind push it down. Luckily, with skillful maneuvering and my practiced gamer thumb, I manage to bring the squadron gently back down. It was a little scary, but a valuable experience in terms of wind limits.

We continue to the famous coffee plantations to awaken our tired spirits and get energized for the day. A bit expensive but very delicious, we enjoy our cafe latte. The van takes us further into the plateau, past very traditional villages with wooden huts and tin roofs. We make a stop at one of the villages to observe the life of the local Laotians. It's unclear how to behave when you see poverty right in front of your eyes. Should I look away or watch? What do the residents think when they see us disembark from the van with our phones, cameras, and clean clothes? It's a difficult but enlightening experience.

After a longer drive, we reach Tad Lo Village, another small village with a wide waterfall on the outskirts. The amount of water is gigantic. Since we have better wind conditions this time, I explore the surroundings again with my quadcopter and capture stunning shots of the landscape. After enjoying a good plate of fried rice, we head back to Pakse in the van.

In retrospect, we were amazed at how far the Bolaven Plateau-Trail was. We would never have been able to do it in one day with the bike, thanks to Buddha :)

We spend our last evening relaxed on the rooftop terrace of the hotel, enjoying a good steak and a cold Beer Lao.

The next morning, we head to the Cambodian border, in the middle of the Mekong River, to the 4,000 Islands. The Mekong River reaches a width of up to 14 km here. Most of the islands are uninhabited, as many of them disappear and get flooded during the rainy season. Don Khong, the largest island, Don Khon, and Don Det are the touristically developed ones. Based on our research, we choose Don Det.

The journey from Pakse is unspectacular and takes about six hours to the "port". Upon arrival, there is quite a commotion, with many clueless backpackers getting off the bus and being directed in various directions by the driver. After a short search, however, we find the ticket counter near the water. We hop on a small longtail boat and set off into the Mekong. The landscape is breathtaking. Everything is covered in greenery, reeds, grass, and palm trees adorn the small islands that we pass by. After 10 minutes, we arrive at the sandy shore of Don Det. The march to our hostel runs along the river, past small bars, restaurants, and the locals' houses. Our hostel Riverside lives up to its name. Right on the Mekong, we check in. Very rustic, with just a bed, a power outlet, and a cold-water shower. The highlight of the room is the two hammocks on the veranda, from where you have a magnificent view of the gigantic water masses. Time to chill and unwind.

The next few days can be summarized quickly. We explore the whole island by bike, riding up and down the narrow, rocky sandy paths and enjoying the breathtaking nature. We never miss the sunset either. It's simply a dreamlike setting, as the red ball glows in the sky and reflects in the Mekong. Also amusing are the countless animals on the island, it feels like a big farm. Pigs, cows, cats, dogs, ducks, chickens, they all roam around and we pet them to our heart's content.

On the last day, we ride our bikes to the neighboring island of Don Khon, which is connected by a large bridge, to admire another waterfall in the Mekong. After a short stop at the shore, we take another break and plunge into the cool water. Truly idyllic, we sit up to our heads in the Mekong, surrounded by palm trees, and enjoy our wonderful time together.

We buy another ticket to travel to Cambodia the next day, thus closing the chapter on Laos. It was awesome, and we had unforgettable moments in this wonderful country!

Lars

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