24. Chapter: Cows for Wisdom and Shopping Hysteria at Nishiki Market

This time, I haven't had much luck with the flea markets. It rained half the day yesterday, which turned out to be good because I needed to plan my next trip for the next five days more thoroughly and buy train tickets.

When I finally arrived at Kitano Tenmangu Shrine around noon, when it was just drizzling a little, the first vendors were already packing up. Each porcelain bowl and ceramic pot is individually wrapped in newspaper and placed in wooden boxes, which takes time. The flea market was supposed to last until 4.

However, I can still photograph some stalls, buy a beautifully Japanese-looking wristwatch and a few small bowls, and then dedicate myself to the magnificent shrine. I completely forgot that the market only takes place outside the walls and gates, so you can calmly admire everything inside.

Kitano Tenmangu is well-known and popular for several reasons, not only for the truly magnificent buildings, lanterns, and decorations. First and foremost are the countless plum trees on the grounds, which bloom wonderfully modestly in March, before the cherry blossoms. I liked these blossoms even better than the lush, thick cherry blossoms, although there were also more understated ones that delighted me even more.

Additionally, the shrine is popular among students because the large stone and bronze cows sitting around everywhere are believed to, when stroked, boost wisdom and academic performance, ensuring study success. They are also said to help prevent disasters. Guess what I've been petting!!

After the last stall had packed up, I decided to plunge into the hustle and bustle of Kawaramachi Shopping Street and Nishiki Market, even though the shopping hysteria that reigns here always makes me nervous and exhausted. Suddenly, well-styled and elegantly expensive-looking, made-up people come towards you, carrying paper bags (at least here, no plastic!). The first Christmas specialty shop sparkles, blares, and glitters out onto the street (otherwise, Christmas decorations have been rather sparse to see and hear here; I flinch every time. I'm not feeling very Christmassy at all), incredibly expensive bags, designer clothes, makeup, hair decorations, and so on, and the crowds are buying, buying, buying.

In between, I pass by owl cafés, where you can hold and pet the poor sedated animals, and pet stores, where far too young dogs and cats run around frenetically in the windows, admired by cheering idiots (sorry, but really!!!🤯). Apparently, they have no clue about animal welfare here! Business must be done, by any means necessary!

Behind this upscale street lies the famous Nishiki Market, thousands of small shops and street restaurants stretching through several eternally long corridors across multiple streets and neighborhoods. Usually, there is so much hustle and bustle here that you can hardly get through, but many shops are already closed, and the crowd is manageable.

It's interesting to see what you could eat! A lot is incredibly expensive but very beautiful to look at. If I have time, I must come back to see, smell, and taste the fermented delicacies that were already packed yesterday.

I have to say that sometimes I get the impression that the Japanese don't have all their cups in the cupboard: at Nishiki, there are several, I have the impression of kilometer-long stalls, where you can pull these “cute” fabric or plastic creatures, which especially young girls hang in masses on their backpacks, from vending machines, similar to surprise eggs; you never know what you'll get. These machines are indeed besieged by people of all ages and genders!

The next thing that leaves me shaking my head in wonder is a “Pet Paradise,” where dresses and hats for dogs and cats are sold. At the moment, outfits for Christmas seem to be particularly trendy. Shelves upon shelves full of this nonsense! I had already seen some dogs in strollers wearing dresses or poodle hats on the street and thought they were eccentric exceptions. The armies of poor animals! Someone also told me that especially small dog breeds are bred here because the apartments are so small….