Between Storks and City Stories
With a stop at Panemunė Castle, we follow the Nemunas River upstream – always along the Russian border, heading towards Kaunas. Wildflowers bloom everywhere, and of course, we...

Published: 17.07.2025




































Right after breakfast, we leave Kaunas for the first destination of the day: Trakai Castle.
We walk along the lake, across a bridge to the impressively located water castle, which already appears grand from the opposite shore.
For about an hour, we wander through the ancient walls and learn more about its tumultuous history. But just as we glance out from one of the gates, thick rain and thunder clouds begin to gather. Fortunately, the Bulli is within walking distance – we find shelter there and take a break.
As the weather calms down, we continue on toward Vilnius. After traffic jams, heavy rain, and a flooded road, we finally reach our destination: the trade fair parking lot, which is partially open for campers in the summer.
Shortly after, we take public transport into the old town – and behold: the sun is shining again.
Without a plan, we let ourselves drift and discover beautiful spots. In St. Casimir's Church, we happen upon a lovely organ rehearsal accompanied by operatic singing. Later, we find ourselves in front of Vilnius Cathedral and catch a glimpse of Gediminas Tower. Time and again, we spot buildings from travel guides and photos: the Presidential Palace, the Gate of Dawn, the university.
As we wander through the glass district, we eventually arrive at a small French restaurant that enchants us completely. Satisfied and happy, we walk back through the old town, enjoy the sunset by the banks of the Neris River, and take the bus back to the fairgrounds.
The next morning, we start early – destination: Užupis, the 'Republic' of artists. After a modest breakfast, we're initially somewhat disappointed: it feels less alternative than expected. Travel blogs and guides have compared this district to places like Christiania in Copenhagen or Montmartre in Paris, but we search in vain for that vibe. However, at the border crossing to the old town, we still find a little remnant of the former alternative, artistic charm.
Another highlight: the Museum of Illusions. Behind the facade of a historic building from the 16th century lies an impressive collection of optical illusions, physical playthings, and interactive art. Particularly interesting is the history of the building, which has served various functions over the decades – from a residence to a storage room, and even as escape tunnels during World War II.
We continue to explore, climb walls, snack here and there, and finish the day just in time before the next thunderstorm in a traditional Lithuanian restaurant.
Right after breakfast, we leave Kaunas and head to the first destination of the day: Trakai Castle.
We walk along the lake and across a bridge to the impressively situated water castle, which already looks majestic from the opposite shore.
For about an hour, we wander through the old walls and learn more about its eventful history. But just as we step outside through one of the gates, dark thunderclouds start rolling in. Luckily, our Bulli is within walking distance – we take shelter there and pause for a break.
Once the weather calms down, we continue on toward Vilnius. After traffic jams, heavy rain, and even a flooded road, we finally reach our destination: a trade fair parking lot that is partially open to campers during the summer.
Soon after, we hop on public transport and head into the old town – and look, the sun has returned.
Without any fixed plan, we let ourselves drift and discover beautiful corners of the city. In St. Casimir’s Church, we stumble upon an atmospheric organ rehearsal accompanied by opera singing. Later, we find ourselves in front of Vilnius Cathedral and spot Gediminas Tower. Again and again, we come across buildings we recognize from guidebooks and photos: the Presidential Palace, the Gate of Dawn, the university.
Wandering through the glass quarter, we eventually arrive at a small French restaurant that completely enchants us. Full and happy, we stroll back through the old town, enjoy the sunset along the banks of the Neris River (Memel), and catch a bus back to the fairgrounds.
The next morning, we set off early – destination: Užupis, the self-proclaimed 'Republic' of artists. After a small breakfast, we’re initially a little disappointed: it feels less alternative than expected. Travel blogs and guides often compare this district to Christiania in Copenhagen or Montmartre in Paris – but we search in vain for that atmosphere. However, at the border crossing back into the old town, we find remnants of Užupis’s former artistic charm.
Another highlight: the Museum of Illusions. Behind the façade of a historic 16th-century building lies an impressive collection of optical illusions, playful physics, and interactive art. Particularly fascinating is the story of the building itself – over the centuries, it served many different purposes: from a residence to storage space and even as a network of escape tunnels during World War II.
We continue to explore, climb old walls, snack here and there, and finish the day just in time before the next thunderstorm in a traditional Lithuanian restaurant.
