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Thailand Part 7: Christmas, Hangover & the Big Mud Pit

Published: 29.12.2025

Eat
La Viridian Hometown Café
$ · Breakfast
Eat
Papankorn House
$ · Breakfast
Accommodation
Papankorn House
Hotel · Surat Thani · Booking
Bus
Krabi Bus Terminal → Surat Thani Bus Terminal
Thailand
Taxi
Huts → Krabi Bus Terminal
Thailand
Eat
Tom Yum (kleines Restaurant am Busbahnhof)
Thai · $ · Breakfast
Ferry
Tapee Pier
Longtailboot
Attraction
Ta-Pi-Fluss
Surat Thani, Thailand
Park
Outdoor Gym am Ta-Pi-Fluss
Surat Thani, Thailand
Attraction
Night Market am Hafen
Surat Thani, Thailand
Attraction
Grand Canyon Tha Chang
Surat Thani, Thailand
Beach
Phum Riang Beach
Surat Thani, Thailand

“Some Christmases are contemplative. Others… are Ao Nang.”

What a Christmas!
We head to Ao Nang and first look for a place to eat. What a stroke of luck: Happy Hour. What a stroke of bad luck: not for long.
So we do the sensible thing – everyone orders three cocktails right away.

I start with a Strawberry Daiquiri, followed by two Espresso Martinis.
In retrospect: a bold, but questionable decision.
This hits hard.

After dinner, we stroll along the promenade and accidentally end up in the first bar with loud, danceable music. And cocktails.
On the way to the next bar, I stop at a stall with fried scorpions. Eat? No.
But I buy the vendor a flashing Christmas headband. Priorities.

Fully equipped, we head to the beach. There, we release our Christmas wishes into the sky with a Khom Loi – along with many others. A beautiful spectacle, calm, magical, almost kitschy. Love it!

Afterwards: next bar. Beach bar. Cocktail.
Voiceover: “Huiuiui… I’m tipsy.”

Armed with a road beer (after 10 PM, 7/11 no longer sells alcohol – Thailand has rules, but we know how to help ourselves and just ask at the restaurant) we take a Tuk Tuk back to the accommodation. There, we sit on the terrace until half past three, talking about God, the world, and very important topics that I can only vaguely remember.


“Yesterday, I thought it was a good idea.”

I have to get up relatively early. At 9:45 AM, we are driven to the Krabi bus station by the owner of the huts.
I need to pack. With a hangover.
I’m definitely getting too old for this stuff.

At the bus station, we quickly find our way around. The bus takes us to Surat Thani in 3.5 hours.
With music in my ears and my eyes closed, I combat the hangover – with moderate success.

Surat Thani. Big city. Gateway to Koh Samui and Koh Phangan.
Our hotel: Papankorn House. Small, simple, perfectly serves its purpose.
We are exhausted. I am exhausted. And hungover.
First, let’s sleep.

Surat Thani is significantly less touristy than our previous stops – and that’s exactly what I like. Less frills, more real life. A small market at the harbor, otherwise little touristy stuff.

We are approached twice by schoolgirls asking if they can do an interview for a school project. Of course, they can. I briefly feel very important.

We rent scooters again – Deer Motorbike Rentals, highly recommended. Being mobile is simply unbeatable.

The weather is changeable: windy, some rain. In the news, I read about a flood warning for southern Thailand.
Here: everything is calm. For now.

First, breakfast.
We end up in a small café in Harry Potter style, Christmas music from the 1940s/50s, maximally kitschy – but maximally charming.
La Viridian Hometown Café.

Afterwards, a boat tour on the Ta-Pi River. From Tapee Pier, we take a longtail boat through the mangroves.
The nature is breathtaking.
The plastic in the water… less so.
My heart bleeds – I wish I had a net with me.

On the way back, it starts to rain lightly. So back to the hotel.

The next day also starts gray and wet. Riding scooters could be slippery – we decide on a chill day.
In the evening, we visit the Night Market at the harbor, which takes place every Saturday. A bit of street food, a bit of strolling – just right.

The next day, the Grand Canyon Tha Chang and Phum Riang Beach are on the agenda.
About an hour’s ride to the canyon. When crossing the Ta Pi, it becomes clear: The water level is noticeably higher than the day before.

Upon arriving at the canyon...

 

At a glance

Automatically extracted from the post
Weather
Rainy season
Off the beaten trackCulinaryRelaxing
  • Weihnachten in Ao Nang mit Cocktails und Khom Loi
  • Bootstour auf dem Ta-Pi-Fluss durch die Mangroven
  • Grand Canyon Tha Chang als „Grand Matschloch“
  • Phum Riang Beach nach dem Unwetter
  • Tom Yum für 2,50 €
ScooterTuk TukLongtailboot
BeachEatTransitNatureRoad trip
  • Tom Yum mit Getränk€3
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