Stop in Marneuli

On Sunday, October 14, 2018, we set off from our forest camp at Lisi Lake in the late morning heading south. We make our way to Tbilisi - Saburtalo one last time before crossing the neighborhood, taking a coffee break and doing some shopping, and then heading up to Turtle Lake. This lake is located above the Vake residential area at an altitude of nearly 700 m. On the way there, we pass by the ethnographic museum. However, we can't visit it because dogs are not allowed. When we arrive at the lake, it quickly becomes clear that I won't be able to find a quiet camping spot here. There are too many walkers around. So we climb a few meters up the south adjacent hill chain and find a spot with a magnificent view over the Georgian capital.

On Monday, we start our hunt early. Right from the start, Rango has to defend himself against a dog attack. A Georgian man can't control his big four-legged companion (resembling a sheep in terms of fur and size). Fortunately, nothing serious happens. We reach Tsavkisi around eleven and continue hiking to Tabakhmela, where we arrive shortly after twelve. Both are typical Georgian settlements. Due to the high walls, you can't see much of the gardens and houses. In the center of Tabakhmela, I have coffee and Khachapuri at the local bakery before we move on. At the southern outskirts of the village, we catch a glimpse of the intended destination for the first time, the Kumisi Reservoir. Once again, we defend ourselves against some other four-legged creatures, walk through a rather dry landscape, pass through the village of Sameba, and finally reach the lake after about 20 kilometers of walking around quarter to five. The lakeshore is muddy and shallow, so no swimming lake once again. Too bad. Instead, we are plagued by blood-sucking sand flies and retreat to the tent early.

Tuesday morning (October 16, 2018), fortunately, most of the annoying insects have disappeared, and I can assemble the tent somewhat undisturbed later. After the long march of the previous day, it is not so easy to move on, and we finally get going around noon. Our path leads us around the water and through a dry, hilly, prairie-like grassland to Marneuli. We cover the well 17 km distance almost in one go. Around four, I inquire about possible accommodations in the small town while enjoying a hot drink. Once again, I feel the need for a warm shower. The first attempt at the Star Hotel fails, Rango is not welcome. We make a second attempt a bit away from the city center at the Komfort Guest House (accommodation with a dog is supposedly not a problem). After a wait, the owner shows me the room with a private bathroom. Everything looks great, but Rango would have to stay outside here too. They are afraid that the facilities will smell like a dog permanently due to our stay! So I set up my tent nearby. With the hotel search, another 20 kilometers of walking have accumulated today, so the lights go out quickly in the evening.

Wednesday morning, with a load of laundry, I head to the city center. I want to take a day off and use the stay to do the laundry. Luckily, I can leave the clothes for cleaning at the Star Hotel. At the nearby shopping center, I upload some pictures and write a travel report while enjoying coffee and pastries. Then I take a longer stroll through the city with Dicken. According to Wikipedia, the area is mainly inhabited by Turkic peoples, but this cannot be deduced from the city structure and architecture. Only the headgear of some men and the call of the muezzin, which occasionally resounds over the city, are indicative of this. In the afternoon, we pick up my laundry and make our way back to the tent. During the night, I could occasionally hear eating noises from the immediate neighborhood and howling in the distance. The quiet gnawing came from a dog that devoured the remains of another dog about 20 meters away, which we stumbled upon on the way back. According to a conversation with some locals, the howling may have been caused by wolves that roam the area and occasionally snatch a dog. On the other hand, the vipers, which are also said to live here, seem to be somewhat manageable. Some of the information definitely does not contribute to general well-being. In the following night, the gasoline bottle and the lighter are within reach, and the shoes are brought into the tent...