Passanauri

I had some time the night before to think about where I would like to hike. After studying the maps, I decided on Kazbegi. Since it had rained on the night of Friday, June 21, 2019, there is some time left until the start. So after breakfast, I organize a little coffee in Mzcheta and read a bit. At noon, I can pack our dry things and go north with Rango. We walk about 3 km along the Aragvi River to the upper part of Mzcheta, from where we have to continue on the highway. In the early afternoon, we take a first break. I have a hot drink and Rango gets some khinkali, bread, and cheese from the neighboring table. After almost 90 minutes of rest, we continue along the highway for another half hour, then we can switch to smaller paths for a few kilometers. We pass two smaller settlements and a few gardens in close proximity to the Aragvi. In Misaktsiyeli, I organize food for the next meals. Then we walk a little further before setting up our camp after nearly 18 kilometers along the riverbank. Due to the cold water, the bath is rather short. After the last rays of sunshine have warmed me up again, we retreat under the tarp.

On Saturday morning, we can start from our campsite near Naoza at around 10:30 a.m. We continue north along small paths east of the Aragvi. In Bulachauri, we find a small market after about 2 hours and 9 kilometers. I leave Rango in the shade against a house wall, give him water, and myself some coffee and pastries. I can use the Wi-Fi and contact home again. After a good hour of break, we continue. It is very warm, so we take the opportunity to quench our thirst in shady spots. In the late afternoon, we reach Zhinvali. I treat myself to an ice cream and another coffee at a supermarket. After replenishing our food and drinking water reserves, we go back to the banks of the Aragvi, make final preparations for the night. I cool off in the mountain water and the evening sun warms me up again. We have covered about 20 km. The daily training is a bit shorter, and after dinner, we go to sleep soon.

Sunday morning, June 23, 2019, I get up around eight. After breakfast and a shave, I pack our stuff together. We are ready to go at around 10:30 a.m., and we climb back up to the Old Military Road. Unfortunately, there are no alternative routes for the next kilometers. When we reach the main road, I try to organize a ride and almost succeed. An older Georgian stops. When it becomes clear that the dog is coming along, he apologizes and drives on. The hair... Despite the high temperatures, I decide to keep walking. I put a white shirt on Rango so he doesn't heat up too quickly. After about 6 km, I treat us to a first break at a café with Wi-Fi and a water source. Then we continue to Ananuri. Here, I leave Rango against the shady monastery wall and visit the complex. The church is beautifully located at the northern end of Lake Zhinvali. Then we continue along the main road, I replenish our food supplies at a market, and after about 17 km, I find a camping spot on the banks of the Aragvi near Tsivtskaro.

After having breakfast on Monday morning, brushing Rango, and packing our stuff, we continue along the Old Military Road towards the north. I finally buy a Georgian SIM card, as the Wi-Fi I used before was not suitable for uploading pictures. However, I still don't have network reception during the day, there must be some issue somewhere. The fact that the provider Beeline sends me SMS in Georgian doesn't help either. We reach Passanauri in the evening. The town is located at the confluence of the White and Black Aragvi rivers, about halfway between Mzcheta and Kazbegi. I buy some groceries and then look for a place to spend the night. I find a spot near the local volleyball field on the riverbank and leave my backpack and Rango there. Then I walk back to the town and look for drinking water. I end up at Nino's house. He fills my 5-liter bottle and invites me to stay overnight in his house. Before I get Rango and my backpack, I help the man with mowing the grass in his garden, right on the riverbank. Then we go to his house, I can take a shower and am invited for dinner. Once again, I can't use the food I bought just before. Nino is a trained doctor but decided to become a farmer because of the great responsibility as a doctor. So he takes care of a few cows, produces his own dairy products, and manages some gardens. His oldest son can solve my network problem during the evening, and we have a conversation. In addition to him, Nino's wife speaks English quite well. She is a teacher at the local school, teaches English, and uses the opportunity for some practice. I can have a somewhat difficult conversation in Russian with Nino. He speaks it fluently (since his time in the Soviet Army) and I am only so-so. Even the regular use of the Duolingo app doesn't really help. Shortly after eleven, we go to bed. I take a room on the upper floor of the house, and Rango sleeps under the balcony, sheltered from the rain.

On Tuesday (June 25, 2019), I am on my way for the first time around half past seven, but it seems that everyone else in the house is still sleeping. So I go back to my room and read a bit. It's time to get up around half past eight. Nino tells me to take a seat on the terrace, he organizes breakfast. During the meal, I am offered to go to the mountains with Nino and his oldest son to harvest wooden sticks. They are needed for the cultivation of beans. I agree, especially since Rango seems to be happy about a little break. So shortly after breakfast, we climb a mountain with two small pickaxes. Near a beautifully blooming meadow, Nino fetches 70 young beech trees from the edge of the forest, which we then remove from their branches and pack into 3 bundles. On the way back, the man chooses a rather direct path down the mountain. We slide down the steep slope with ourselves and the bundles of wood and use the wood to brake. It works quite well. I am glad to have taken the direct route when we reach Nino's garden. The wood on the shoulder weighs heavily on the last meters. After the work is done, we have lunch, and I am invited to spend another night. So I spend Tuesday afternoon with Nino and his two younger sons at the river, swimming and rafting in a truck tire. Both are great fun due to the current. In the evening, we play a round of football in the town, but the darkness puts an early end to the fun.