Motor Exit

What the hell?!

The oasis in Ksar Ghilane is a meeting point for desert drivers from all over the world! Whether bikes or all-wheel drive vehicles, it's a colorful mix of many nations with fantastic vehicles.

We're getting ready for the first real ride into the Sahara, a trip to Fort Tisavar. My heart is racing as we set off, following the path taken by the quads; it's going well. But this is an entirely different kind of driving compared to the road.

We stand at the top of the fort, it already feels good.... And Michel announces that we're taking the route back through the dunes. That's something else altogether!! I've fallen twice already; once the motorcycle is on top of me and I can't get out without help. Then there's a moment when the engine just cuts out and I unintentionally dismount again....

I try to start it, but it's an evening of vacation! My KTM has decided it doesn't feel like it anymore. Just like that. Whether the fine desert sand has done it in or if the engine had issues beforehand, I don’t know. Fact is: the thing is dead. Silence in the cylinder.

And just as if it were a sign of fate: suddenly I see a scorpion next to the rear tire!!! Wild!!

It's actually the only scorpion I see on the whole trip....

And I later learn from the guys that the stings aren't as harmless as I thought.

We try to revive it with a battery, then with the kickstarter, suspecting the ignition switch might be the cause, but nothing works. The engine won't start anymore.

And since I'm really stuck in the dunes, my buddies arrange for a pickup from the camp to come get me. There I immediately learn what it means to navigate a vehicle through the dunes.

Disassembling the carburetor at camp doesn't bring any change; the compression is really completely gone.....

And as if that weren't enough, my friend Occo is also out of luck. He's completely flat and can't get his KTM running anymore.... Two riders, two broken dreams of great freedom on two wheels.

The mood between Occo and me was briefly at rock bottom. We considered renting quads to at least stay somewhat mobile. But after a small price negotiation, we quickly discarded that idea – second option: stay in camp at Ksar Ghilane. But honestly? Sitting around all day while others are plowing through the desert? Not very refreshing.

The switch: From the saddle to the flatbed

So it was time to switch! We squeezed ourselves into the support vehicles. From now on, it’s Sahara sightseeing from the Toyota Hilux.

And what can I say? We couldn't stop marveling! I never thought these vehicles could do what they do. Seeing how these two fully loaded (actually overloaded) workhorses – packed with fuel, water, and gear – plow up and down the sand dunes, respect!

Two Hiluxes are accompanying us, as the luggage for seven people is too much for one vehicle. It's obviously a completely different feeling than on the motorcycle. You feel the pull of the diesel all-wheel-drive, the tires digging into the soft sand, and the incredible skill of the drivers maneuvering these monsters over the ridges. Climbing the dunes can only be done in first gear and full throttle, but then just before the summit, you let off the gas to avoid jumping into the unknown.

Of course, we miss biking. But the desert is showing us a whole different side today – and the view from the Hilux isn’t too bad, even though it's brutally shaking like on a camel.... The term desert ship fits well.

And sometime in the afternoon around four, the first day comes to an end. Abdallah and his two helpers set up the kitchen tent while we pitch our tents.

Michael, the only one without dune or cross experience, is already feeling it hard. I noticed that myself on the first ride; it really drains your stamina!

There's delicious food, the tents are up, and one thing is already clear to us: sand is everywhere after just a few moments, in the tent, in the luggage, in the sleeping bag... And there's no sense in trying to prevent it.

Michael pulls out the outdoor toilet he bought specifically for the trip, a must due to his bad knee. Yes, even such everyday things take on a different significance out here.

We gather some wood for the evening campfire, which is necessary as it’s quite chilly; we’re all wearing jackets and beanies.

The fire is crackling and the beer cans from the supplies are hissing.....

And there's silence!!

In Ksar-Ghilane it's still quite noisy; the diesel generators are buzzing loudly and annoyingly, and from four in the morning, the roosters are crowing, the many pigeons cooing quite irritatingly.

I can only sleep there with earplugs. The snoring of fellow travelers is also no joke!!

And now, in the middle of the sand dunes, it's finally quiet. Only the wood fire crackles and we reflect on the first stage. An elevated feeling, sleeping in this sandy infinity. Incredible. The sunset looks epic. A very, very wonderful feeling sitting here.

The adventure continues!