BKK - 5 nights in Bangkok

Bangkok

What can I write about Bangkok? What should I write about Bangkok?

Does Bangkok smell like urine? Like dirt?

That vulnerable homelessness confronts us with its nakedness, poverty, and resignation at every turn?

That the sad vacancy of many shops and houses spreads a gray desolation?

That much of the past has fallen into disrepair and become unloved?

That this Bangkok has caught me cold and won't let go? Painfully caught.

How can this be? This colorful, lively, pulsating metropolis, where is it? We were here 10 years ago last and found a hotel in the area that we liked so much back then. Because of the many small street stalls, the open food stalls, the friendly, colorful hustle and bustle, peaceful and relaxed. From early morning until night.

We arrive at the airport and struggle with our luggage and time using public transport to get to our address... and experience on the grand Ratchadamnoen Boulevard on the right and left construction fences (the old buildings are being renovated), in the middle likewise (a metro line is under construction), and on the sidewalks, homeless men and women, young and old, with shabby belongings, lying or sitting on cardboard boxes. I don't know how many, haven't counted, but more than several, rather dozens, are living on the sidewalk. We turn the corner, it doesn't stop, along with closed shops and locked houses. Next corner, next corner, we walk through a cloud of urine and stand in front of our hotel. Both completely bewildered.
The ribs on my right side hurt, I don't know what it is. My imagination about what it could be quickly scares me. So, the worst conditions for carefree enjoyment.

While traveling, it is usually the case that the next day makes everything better, more beautiful, and more relaxed. This time not. I also do not gain any inner distance and thus protection from the surroundings. For 5 days. My discomfort improves, my horror remains, even in Bangkok's places that are colorful, lively, and even beautiful and inviting.

Here is an illustrative article in 'Spiegel' that describes the situation in exactly the corner of Bangkok we were in. Caught cold, bullseye.

https://www.spiegel.de/ausland/obdachlosigkeit-in-thailand-wie-eine-suppenkueche-bangkoks-aermste-versorgt

Bangkok is a megacity - of course that exists. Just like the masses of tourists that are funneled through, Bangkok is also the most visited city in the world in 2025. We want to understand, engage in conversation, ask questions, read and tell about it, and sometimes there is an explanatory sentence. This time Thomas learns from a German who lives in Thailand that many residents from Bangkok returned to their families in the countryside during Covid-19 and stayed home. They earn less, but live cheaper and more stress-free.

We have also read that too much housing is being created in Bangkok. An oversupply, unfortunately unaffordable for lower incomes. The problem of vacancy and the accompanying desolation also exists in other major cities. We think back to Chiang Rai, where we noticed this before, perhaps it has the same cause. The street kitchens, which used to be a typical part of Bangkok's street scene, have been regulated and restricted. Unfortunately, they no longer exist in the variety we knew.

Now we understand better, our impression is somewhat explained and unfortunately confirmed. Bangkok again? Rather not. My ribs are feeling slightly better daily, it might have been a strain. The imagination is turned off.

After the 5 nights, we traveled to Amphawa, 90 km outside Bangkok. A good tip from Sao and Gaetan, our quiet and beautiful place to relax. Thank you for that!