Simply say thank you
Day #42 Thursday, 11th of June. From Kraimorie to somewhere near Gramatikowo Country: Bulgaria [Note from the editor: First, there was no internet in the Bulgarian mountains and...


Published: 14.06.2026




















Tag #43
Friday, June 12th.
From somewhere near Gramatikowo to Beypinar
Country: Bulgaria / Turkey
The night was relaxing and apart from scaring a deer once, everything was calm.
Due to the exposed location, I start to pack my sleep gear early, afterwards it's a bit more relaxed.
And I can lay out the solar panel in the sun for now.
Additionally, I take my time during breakfast to tend to my bike a little.
It's urgently needed.
The fact that, in addition to the regularly passing border police, Frontex also stops by, highlights how isolated the border is.
Regardless of yesterday's encounter.
First, there’s a nice descent and then the next border post.
I mistakenly assign the two dogs to the officers and am surprised when they rush at me.
And then it happens, one of the mutts bites me in the calf.
Fuck!
While I examine the wound, the Frontex guy speaks to me in German.
Probably just on suspicion... who else is crazy enough to ride a bike around here.
He's trying to help me but doesn't have any disinfectant or anything like that.
For the wound care, I take my first aid kit.
Maybe the dogs seek the company of the officers, hoping to also get a uniform and finally be someone.
Who knows.
The officer from the Lower Rhine claims to know that the biting dog was recently vaccinated, as a colleague had taken it to the vet.
One who is definitely vaccinated is me, and so I can continue riding fairly relaxed with a bandaged calf.
And from now on there’s only one direction, up towards the border, which lies in the mountains above.
And while I’m still managing my remaining water, a water source appears just in time.
It’s already a familiar sight to see locals standing here with their canisters.
During a mid-ride descent, I hear a nasty clacking sound from my rear tire.
It takes me a moment to find the cause, and I panic slightly, fearing something could be wrong with the axle.
Fortunately, it's just a piece of dirt, hard as a rock, that’s resting on the rear tire and is stuck there.
A remnant from the day before yesterday that got dislodged from the rattling.
It's too bad I disposed of my wire yesterday.
So I remove the bag to get to the spot and with a piece of wood, the operation begins.
Finally, the foreign body can be removed, and the patient is fine.
Then it's finally here, the border to Turkey.
Before that, I have to rummage for my ID several times.
The first time, just to be able to leave Bulgaria at all.
Fortunately, it is confirmed that I am who I say I am.
Then comes the actual border
My advantage is that as a cyclist, I receive the signal to ride past the waiting cars.
I hand my ID to the Turkish officer, and along with a stamped piece of paper, I get it back.
The luggage inspection is also incredibly straightforward.
The next officer taps once on my luggage roll and asks me where I'm coming from and where I'm going.
For that, I receive a fist bump and I’m off.
At a barrier, I want to pass, under the assumption that I have completed all the formalities, but the guy in his booth has something against it.
It’s clear he’s yelling at me.
Okay, here please show your ID and the stamped paper, then the barrier goes up and I can continue riding.
Isn't travel freedom wonderful?
After the border crossing, the asphalt is a dream, I take a moment for a break as I urgently need something to eat.
I want to find a nice spot for a proper break afterwards.
The guardrail is only conditionally comfortable.
But it turns out differently, instead, the clouds drive me forward.
The sky keeps getting darker, it’s getting really dark, and beside me, I hear thunder getting louder.
Fortunately, the actual storm just barely misses me.
The landscape is completely different compared to the Bulgarian side.
Beautifully, I ride through the mountains, past jagged rocks, fields, and through small farming villages.
As the rain starts, I find myself in a wooded area that is nearing its end, so I decide early in the afternoon that today is a wrap.
The day was quite eventful enough.
First, I set up the tarp and then lie in the hammock.
And for an hour, I do absolutely nothing.
Well, except check the map and the further route.
Otherwise, just existing.
At 20:52, the sun sets. Announced by the calls from the minaret.
By that time, most of it is already done, and there’s still dinner from my remaining supplies since there was no chance to shop today.
And after I could still let Jenni know that I'm doing well, I drift off to sleep gently swinging to the sound of the rain.
Song of the day:
Heaven Shall Burn - Trespassing the Shores of Your World
