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Day 11 Pietralunga: a hike through rain

Published: 24.04.2024

Today we're going to Pietralunga. I'm not really inclined to set off today. I'm very reluctant to leave the tasteful room with the wonderful view over the roofs of Città di Castello. In a former monastery, the monks' cells have been converted into rooms and apartments. The corridor, which has largely been preserved in its original state, and the old doors of the monks' cells, which I estimate to be at least 250 years old, are impressive. Città di Castello is twice as big as Sansepolcro. Even though the two old towns are comparable, Città di Castello is the more elegant one, while Sansepolcro has more charm.

Between Umbria and Tuscany

I almost always walk on asphalt roads or forest paths. Apart from a few very attractive views, the route is more monotonous than the previous days. I'm going to Pietralunga. A 30-kilometer route awaits me. Since I'm taking a little detour at Monte Casale, the end result will be 36 kilometers and almost 10 hours of hiking.

What is special about this route is that you run in Tuscany and Umbria. I have left the forest behind me. The landscape is more fragmented, and you can see more wine as well as olive trees. In Tuscany, pine trees and noble estates dominate, while in Umbria it is the dry meadows and vegetable fields that catch the eye. Unfortunately, all of this is somewhat lost because the clouds are low and it rains heavily every now and then.

Church of the Sorrows

In the middle of a beautiful flower meadow you come across a Romanesque church with a pilgrims' hostel. Its history goes back to the 3rd century AD. I could spend the night here. A sign indicates that there is also a shuttle service. But I am still confident that I will be able to reach my next destination, Pietralunga, without any major incidents.

After a long and steep hour: Pietralunga

I've barely left Pieve dei Saddi behind me when it starts to rain again. The next two hours drag on like chewing gum and the rain poncho can no longer keep the water under control. Even worse than the rain is the very steep road that winds up to Pietralunga. It goes on mercilessly, bend after bend. A look at the hiking guide: there's not a word in it about the sins you have to atone for on this route and not a word about this merciless climb. I've lost all sense of the distance given and I'm also plagued by back pain. Why does 6 kilometers feel so long?

I arrive late at the accommodation, dripping wet and at the end of my strength. At least the room that welcomes me after this extremely strenuous and tiring day is a dream. It is heated. And it is furnished with such love and attention to detail that it is actually a crime to use it for just one night. A real jewel box and comfort after a strenuous day.

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