Hiking on the Harzer Hexen Trail

From Osterode to Buntenbock

In Osterode, we get some snacks (baked grains) from the bakery, as the time of the donkey drivers, who could carry our things into the Harz heights, is over.

The sculpture in Osterode shows the donkey with a bag of grain and the donkey driver holding a grain bottle. You can read more here.

We start with about 10 kg heavy backpacks, in great spirits and in beautiful, very warm weather.

The starting point is quickly found; we only need to follow the sign:

The first kilometers go only uphill, there are occasional rest areas and shelters providing shade during drink breaks. Previously, these were rest areas with a fire pit for the donkey drivers.

For the ambitious hikers, there are stamp stations along the way. We are not collecting these. ;)

Upon our arrival at the guesthouse, it becomes clear that it is already too late to visit the restaurant in the nearby village. Additionally, we did not reserve a table, which was highly recommended.

So we have salad, pizza, and döner on the recommendation of our hostess. The food is delivered from Clausthal-Zellerfeld, and it is good and hot. Drinks come from the guesthouse’s fridge, and we dine on the terrace. A perfect and relaxing evening to start our hiking tour.

From Buntenbock to Torfhaus

After breakfast, we set off on the approximately 18 km long route to Torfhaus. Today is the day of the Harz water management, at least we pass by corresponding facilities (both old and new): the Oberharzer water regulation.

Many ponds, reservoirs, and artificial waterways (e.g., channels) are interconnected. Along the route, there are many exhibits and information boards explaining the technologies, geographical conditions, and exhibits.

After hours of hiking in 32° C heat, we are warmly welcomed at the Torfhaus hotel. The overnight price includes admission to the Harzturm Torfhaus; we skip the ascent to the observation tower as we would have only 10 minutes for that and enjoy a refreshing shower in our room instead.

This evening's meal is themed around our feathered friends. Meanwhile, we study the history of the company, as it has been years since our last visit during our youth.

From Torfhaus to Drei Annen Hohne

We start on the Goethe Way (the good man was everywhere...) towards Brocken. Today, we have around 20 km ahead, and it's already quite warm in the morning.

We enjoy the shade in the hut at the former German-German border; reforestation has successfully taken place in this area of the national park.

On the convoy path, soldiers of the NVA used to patrol until reunification. Michael and Christof already rode this path during their cycling tour along the bike trail 'Green Ribbon - Germany'.

Along the Goethe Way, you come to the Harzer Brocken Railway on the convoy path and walk a bit along the tracks. There are no access points.

Before the ascent to the Brocken, we turn right and save ourselves the path on the asphalt road to the summit. From now on, we are predominantly walking downhill, and we encounter well-trained and poorly trained cyclists along the way, as well as a fox, who is completely unafraid—so we keep our distance...

At the next fork, we meet the mountain bikers again, whom we had already encountered two days earlier. A rest hut provides some shade during our lunch break, and a couple from Saxony joins us, relieved that they do not have to sit in the blazing sun.

After the break, the further path is easy to find:

In this area of the Brocken, the landscape still appears quite worn:

There is still much reforestation to be done. Apparently, according to the national park management, efforts to establish mixed cultures with other tree species are making good progress.

From the Otto Rock, we can see the tower on the Wurmberg; great long-distance visibility, with more spruce toothpicks in the foreground.

At 3 PM, we reach our hotel in Drei Annen Hohne—perfect timing for coffee and cake in the shade. The hotel is located right next to the train station, and from the restaurant, we can watch the trains of the Brocken Railway. In the evening, the train station is deserted.

From Drei Annen Hohne to Altenbrak

The next morning, the sky is overcast, a few drops fall, but it's too little and too warm for a rain jacket. We follow two young people who had stayed in the same hotel towards Königshütte. We keep meeting them over the next two days, and all of us are happy about that.

At the Trogfurther Bridge at the Königshütte dam, the strong wind blows Michael's trekking piece into the depths.

In Elbingerrode, there is also Hamburg.

Along the Bode, there are constant obstacles today. We keep climbing over fallen trees; the hiking path will likely be left to nature.

In the late afternoon, we reach our hotel in Altenbrak. The man at the reception is a bit stressed; he has to fill in for his son, who had to travel to the Netherlands. He is proud of the best room in the house, which we promptly receive. Oh yes...

From Altenbrak to Thale

Today comes the final stage to Thale; according to the hotelier, it is the most beautiful section of the Hexenstieg and certainly one of the most beautiful hikes in Europe.

We are curious if the hiking experience will surpass the quality of the room.

The hike through the Bode Valley is indeed a hiker's dream. The trail runs relatively close to the Bode in the valley, and throughout the day, the steep walls rising up become more impressive. A hiking trail that one should definitely walk if they are in the Harz region.

After the tour, there is the obligatory reward; unfortunately, the ice cream and coffee are only served in paper cups.

In the afternoon, we find the signpost for the Hexenstieg,

and the award-winning signal box of the year 2024 for the railway. Funny: the station in Thale is out of service for an extended period due to renovations. There is a bus substitute service, and the pretty signal box has nothing to do.