#15 Lore laika

 How time flies …

Traveling by motorhome is designed for packing up and moving on at any time. And since packing is quick because everything is stored in the vehicle, frequent changes of location happen.

The last report talked about our arrival in Bingen on the Rhine and the upcoming 3 days.

Now we have moved on and have been in Bonn on the Rhine for two days.

Where should I start now?

Last night I came up with something. I will divide the 5 days into 10 keywords that I will report on.

1. Bingen and Burg Klopp

2. Rüdesheim and Drosselgasse

3. Papa Rhine

4. Farmer Schorsch

5. Romantic Rhine

6. German Corner

7. Rolandseck Station

8. Bonn Stationsweg

9. Federal City of Bonn

10. Drachenfels Castle

1.

Bingen on the Rhine is the beginning of the Middle Rhine (or the end of the Upper Rhine) and here the Nahe flows into the Rhine. However, it presents itself rather as an unspectacular place, the promenade goes around the corner and offers a view of an incoming body of water. A small sculpture meant to represent Poseidon is already the pinnacle of emotion.

Off we go to the city with the obligatory pedestrian zone. Surely, it must be bustling with locals. Not at all, Bingen turns out to be a boring place without structure. The city center consists only of kebab shops, Turkish barbers, and cheap chain stores.

Is that really all there is? Where are the tourists from the passenger ships heading to?

There’s also Burg Klopp, a fortress that was built in conjunction with other castles on the opposite Rhine side for the defense of the city of Bingen in the Middle Ages.

Since 2002, Burg Klopp has been part of the UNESCO World Heritage Upper Middle Rhine Valley.

Right in the city, you can access the castle walls by climbing a flight of stairs. The view from up here over the Rhine loop is already very majestic and impressive. It can be topped when you climb the 150 steps to the tower and look across the landscape from that height.

But that’s it for Bingen. Where to next?

2.

The Rhine ferry at the promenade operates every 10 minutes and takes passengers to the other side of the Rhine in Rüdesheim. What was in Rüdesheim again? Oh right – Drosselgasse. Through this hollow alley, he must come….

What we missed in Bingen is in abundance here. Drosselgasse with its well-known establishments is a magnet for tourists from all over the world. There they are, the Asians, Americans, Scandinavians, Russians, and I don't know who else. A sensible trip to Europe probably also includes Rüdesheim and this alley.

Along the promenade, everywhere you see references to the 'Rüdesheim Café'. This is a special cup in which a café with a shot is served. And the shot comes from the local specialty...

Between Mainz and Bingen, the Rhine takes a curve and flows westward. This rewards the opposite, right bank with southern slopes and houses the Rheingau with its excellent Riesling wines. However, in the tourist stores in Rüdesheim, you only get the cheap version of that. After two attempts, it’s enough, and our bicycle tour along the Rhine promenade to Oestrich Winkel is set to transport us back with the ferry from there.

At the motorhome site in Bingen (Motorhome Park Bingen), Gaby and Manfred (Gaby was in Bad Gandersheim for a spa retreat with Simone, around 2003) have now arrived. The two also drive a motorhome and were just nearby Frankfurt for a leak test.

With a big cheer and joy, the reunion is celebrated.

3.

Manfred and Gaby did not bring bikes, so we are moving on foot on Saturday. We hike along the river towards Bingen and want to take drinks on the rooftop terrace of the luxury hotel “Papa Rhein”.

After almost 3 km, we stand in front of the impressive building right on the banks of the Rhine. The architecture and especially the interior is already exquisite. Here you can feel the loving interplay between functionality and taste.

The elevator takes us to the 4th floor and there to the rooftop terrace. This is mainly dominated by the outdoor pool, which is installed right on the terrace with a view of the Rhine loop and the landscape. Around are lounge chairs and lounge furniture inviting relaxation.

In the sun, we find a good spot and the first beer of the day is served (2 PM).

The “Papa Rhein” markets itself as a wellness hotel with all amenities and attracts people as such. A query about room rates leaves us disenchanted back at the motorhome site – 350 € per room per night with breakfast.

The beer on the terrace, however, only cost a ridiculous 6,- €.

4.

On the way back, you inevitably pass a campsite right in front of the motorhome site. The campsite is called “Bauer Schorsch” and also has a camping restaurant with simple furniture right on the banks of the Rhine. There, the motorhomes are also set up with a view of the water and thus the shipping lane of the inland vessels. Actually, it’s called 'Camping at Hindenburg Bridge'. Here, the remains of a Rhine bridge jut into the landscape, which served a supply function in World War II and was blown up by the Allies.

We sit at one of the many tables and relaxedly observe the activity, especially the shipping traffic on the Rhine. The number is indeed enormous, and we wonder if it’s always like this or if the ships were moored during the holidays.

The shipping lane here is like a ship highway. One ship follows the other. Overtaking is probably forbidden or impractical, since there is also oncoming traffic.

The camping kiosk offers small meals (fries, currywurst, meatball sandwiches, schnitzels in all variations) and cakes in the afternoon. This is accepted by both camping guests and cyclists stopping here.

This supply place rounds off the good impression of our motorhome site, which is only 500 m away and costs only 30% of the day's price compared to the campsite.

There, we meet Gaby and Manfred in the evening at the motorhome and play several rounds of “Skibbo”.

5:

On Sunday morning, the caravan moves on. Manfred and Gaby drive to Bad Hersfeld, where they live.

We head towards Bonn. There we have registered with Ute, another spa acquaintance of Simone.

But first, we will drive the romantic Rhine. The Rhine Valley here is significantly narrower and wooded hills rise on both sides. In these, castles and palaces continually stand, offering a view of the river. The Rhine winds in loops around the mountains. At its narrowest point in St. Goar is also the most famous rock, the Loreley.

According to legend, the virgin Lore sat on the rock and so enchanted the captains that the ships sank one after another.

But maybe it was just the narrow spot and the submerged rocks.

The statue of Loreley exists in two versions. The first sculpture (see cover image) was erected in 1983 on the harbor mole in St. Goarshausen.

40 years later, a second sculpture was created, which was placed directly at the top of the Loreley rock. The 2.20 m tall figure can only be admired by those who climb the rock and stand in front of it after 398 steps. A view from the riverbank or even from the passing ships is not possible.

We did not hike up.

On both sides of the Rhine here is a road directly along the water’s edge, so you always have a view of the river. This continues all the way to Koblenz. There a diversion occurs, which, however, does not stop us from driving into the old town. In Koblenz at the German Corner, the Moselle and the Rhine merge. This is part of the Rhine's sights.

And here, the confluence is notably present. At the German Corner, tourists from all countries stream in, and cameras capture pictures for home. The promenade is very generous, and towers above it all stands the equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm. This 44 m high monument is one of the attractions of Rhineland-Palatinate and one of Germany's national monuments.

After half an hour of the best sunshine, the pictures are taken and we can continue.

It’s not far to Bonn anymore.

But I will tell you about that in the next episode. And of course about the remaining points 6 - 10.