From Tsumago to Egome

September 22

On Tuesday, after breakfast, we headed to Tsumago-Juku, another historic post town. From there, we wanted to hike to the next post town, Magome-Juku.

So, we were able to admire the beautifully preserved Edo-period houses once again before setting off on the approximately seven-kilometer hiking trail. This trail actually follows one of the historic stages that travelers have traversed for several hundred years.

The path was truly lovely. Time and again, it led us through wooded mountains or alongside small mountain streams. Occasionally, we encountered hikers carrying small bells. Only during the hike did we learn that there are indeed black bears in this region, and these bells are recommended to alert others to their presence.

Along the way, there were also larger bells that one was supposed to ring. However, we managed to avoid being eaten without needing a bell.

Upon arriving in Magome, we, of course, first explored the picturesque town and treated ourselves to a reward ice cream. We then took the bus back to Tsumago. It even arrived a little later—worth mentioning here because delayed public transport in Japan is truly a rarity!

Since we still had some time, we made a detour on the way back by car to the Nezame-no-toko gorge. This is a section of the Kiso River, where impressive rock formations rise from the riverbed.

There, one could also get acrobatic and climb over the rocks, all the way up to the highest rock, on which a small temple building stands.

This place is also connected to one of the most famous Japanese legends. Here’s a brief summary:

The fisherman Urashima Tarō saves a sea turtle from a group of bullying children and, out of gratitude, is taken to the underwater palace of a dragon god, where it turns out that the turtle is actually his daughter, Princess Otohime, who gives him a small box as a souvenir and expressly asks him never to open it, which he ignores, and when Urashima finally opens the box, smoke rises from it, and he instantly transforms into an old man.

The end.

And it is on the highest rock here that he is said to have opened this ominous box. Who knows…

After that, the day was already over.