Panigiri

On Ikaria, you don't just go to a festival; you eventually find yourself at a Panigiri. I had this experience before in 2010, and once again, I was not disappointed.

At first, you sit at a table with a plate of goat meat in front of you and a glass of red wine. Those who don't like Katzikis can opt for salad or other homemade specialties, and I personally chose to drink beer instead of wine.

Then, at some point, the band starts playing. The sounds of violin, bouzouki, and double bass resonate, and immediately after, the first circle of people of all ages forms, joining hands at the shoulders. Children stand beside the elderly, vacationers next to locals. The songs seem to last forever.

Typically, a Panigiri is held in honor of the name day of the saint to whom the local chapel is dedicated. After a religious service and a procession, the secular part begins around 9:00 PM with food, drink, music, and dancing.

A Panigiri indeed lasts until the early morning hours. I can’t last that long, but I have heard more than once that attendees partied until around 6:00 AM.

Traditionally, goat meat is served. Nowadays, it's usually grilled; historically, the whole goat (cleaned and chopped, of course, but including innards, bones, cartilage, and eyes, etc.) was boiled for hours, and the broth was then served with bread. The ingredients are traditionally donated, making the festival a sort of village fund that finances things like a fresh coat of paint for the chapel or simply the next festival. This probably had an even greater significance in the past, but it still plays an important role today.

The villagers participate voluntarily in organizing, setting up tables and benches, as well as serving and preparing the food.

The primary dance is the Ikariotikos, a slow, knee-friendly variant of the well-known Sirtaki. This dance can vary slightly from place to place.

As the pace slowed down, I also dared to inch a bit closer to the circle. Soon after, I was taken by the hand, with foreign arms on my shoulders, trying to follow the approximately nine steps as perfectly and flawlessly as possible.

What nonsense!

It doesn't matter at all how