Skoleskogens National Park

The weather report promises us dry days and we can finally explore the Skoleskogens National Park and the rock crevice 'Slåttdalsskrevan'. Now that we’ve reached the northern half of Sweden, there are altitude meters to climb again! The national park lives up to its promise, and after a beautiful forest landscape, there is a continuous ascent over logs and stones. We enjoy the simultaneous challenge for both our minds and bodies, alternating between the red and blue paths, just as Komoot suggests. After the ascent, I consider turning back due to pain in my lower abdomen, but the constantly changing nature drives me on, and the hardest part is behind us. I definitely don't want to miss this! We leave the families with small children behind and reach a plateau (the Slåttsdalsberget). Upon arriving at the top, Henry enjoys the vastness he has been looking forward to and I appreciate that the path leads over stone. (Turns out it's specifically red granite, but any stone would have sufficed for me.) We can already see the promised rock crevice below us at the edge, but I can't figure out how we’ll get to the other side. Henry navigates us to a steep slope where one can descend by climbing halfway - it’s amazing! At the viewpoint to the gorge, we meet the family from below again. At this point, we can't enter the gorge due to the risk of rockfall, but our hike is far from over.

A lonely bench with a fantastic view invites us to rest, and we replenish ourselves with some sandwiches. An elderly couple joins us and tells us that a lake awaits us on the further path. Although the way is challenging at times, the gentleman says he managed it himself and is actually disabled. These words will stay in my ears for the entire journey.

On the further path, we initially find a small detour leading to the other end of the gorge. A large boulder is wedged between the rock walls, and inspired by the Egyptian tourist guides at the pyramids, we make silly photo illusions with it. The rock crevice is genuinely impressive, but to be honest, I still don’t understand how it was formed. I only know that the Högakusten continues to grow, and at 6mm per year, that’s quite fast. To live in a place where you can clearly see changes, and where fishing huts no longer stand at the edge of the water where they were built after just one generation, is rare, fascinating, and not really comprehensible to me.

Eventually, we also pass the promised lake, which actually invites swimming... It doesn’t feel like we’ve been walking here for almost two hours at the shore with the obligatory red house. We wisely decide against going into the lake, but agree to come back tomorrow.

Surrounding us, the environment is constantly transforming. From barren rocky ground to beaches and finally into a dense, wet forest where the paths are harder to access. As we will find out later, the blue-marked route is for advanced hikers, which is why it’s not as well maintained. We always find a creative detour, as turning back is not an option, and are rewarded with little coves along the way.

Unusually, one can spend the night in the parking lots of the national park. Since we’re planning another trip to the lake the next day, we want to camp strategically at the northern entrance. We had just left the southern entrance when a middle-aged couple waves at us frantically from the roadside. They started in the west, somehow got off their route and now need to walk about 2 hours along the road back to their car. Good thing we have a free backseat. We’re very happy to help, and the west entrance is logically right along our way. You can see the relief on their faces after their hike that they don't have to walk for more hours. We strike up a conversation and learn that they are from Switzerland and are traveling from north to south, just like us, but are already on their way back. They drove here and then booked Airbnbs spontaneously - just in case, they also had a tent with them, which they never had to use. They appreciate the vastness of Sweden and wanted to see a different nature than what’s right outside their door. A pleasant encounter :)

The parking lot is pleasantly quiet, allowing us to sleep well, and the next morning we head straight into the park after breakfast. We extend the loop to the lake with detours to a cave and an island. Unfortunately, the weather isn’t great; it’s cloudy and cool. We don’t make it to the lake. However, on the way back, we spot a familiar face; it’s 'Andreas'. Since there’s only one road north, it’s not really surprising to run into each other again. During our further journey, we don't run into Andreas again, but we do recognize some vans.

After our hiking days, we desperately need a shower, so we look for a campsite and end up in Rödviken at a family-friendly place.