27.2 & 28.2 Ninh Binh

Here we go again. We are on the night bus heading to Sapa and I'll tell you a new story from the travel life of Nina and Christian.

For the last two and a half days, we were in the small city of Ninh Binh. Not because the city itself is the main attraction, but because the surrounding area of Ninh Binh is celebrated by travelers. It is known as the dry Halong Bay of Vietnam. We arrived on Monday evening by train from Hue. As soon as we got off the train, the taxi drivers attacked us with their offers. However, we kindly declined and walked the 1.5 kilometers to Go Ninh Binh Hostel. The Go Ninh Binh Hostel is actually the old train station building that has been converted into a sleeping place for tourists. It is logically located next to the railway and inside it combines nostalgia with modern elements. The reception is in the entrance hall and we were warmly welcomed. Our room was on the upper floor, next to the common room with the pool table and small library. After unpacking and settling in, we quickly went to a restaurant to grab a bite to eat. However, the portion size was anything but small. It was huge and our stomachs surrendered after eating half of it. We retreated to our room and fell asleep exhausted in bed.

The next morning, we both woke up with body aches and slightly elevated temperature. However, we didn't let that stop us from renting a motorcycle and driving towards Hang Mua. Hang Mua is a mountain that can be climbed with the help of 500 stairs. It takes about 15 minutes by motorcycle from Ninh Binh and the entrance fee is 100,000 Dong per person. The climb is demanding and after a good half an hour, we reached the summit sweaty and slightly out of breath. Our legs felt like lead, but the breathtaking view made up for all the effort. Upon returning to the bottom, we seriously considered going back to bed. However, we decided against it. After all, it's not often that you get to visit Ninh Binh.

We continued our journey to Bai Ninh Pagoda. The largest pagoda in northern Vietnam. The drive there was interesting and alarming at the same time. Every hundred meters, we saw the face of a skinned and 'beautifully' draped goat that was being offered for sale by the roadside. After half an hour, we reached the parking lot of the pagoda and were relieved to find out that the huge complex was serviced by electric vehicles. Our legs were tired, so we only walked as much as we had to. The pagoda is enormous and inside there are three giant Buddha statues. We behaved like dear friends from China. We took photos and after an hour, we headed back to the hostel. Completely exhausted and already running a slight fever, we went to bed at half past seven, missed the evening and only woke up again the next morning.

The fever was gone, but the body aches remained. After a sparse breakfast, we checked out at half past eleven, left our luggage in the storage room, and set off for Phat Diem Cathedral. There is a lot to see along the way and if you look closely, you will notice that the strip of land under the guardrails is being used as an herb and vegetable garden.

The cathedral is about 21 kilometers from Ninh Binh and it took us three-quarters of an hour to get there. The cathedral is one of the most impressive Catholic churches in Vietnam. It is said so. And it really is. In addition to the cathedral itself, the complex includes four chapels and three artificial caves. Construction of the cathedral and the surrounding buildings took place from 1875 to 1899. The interior of the cathedral is breathtaking. Passing by 52 mighty pillars made of ironwood that support the two-part roof, you will reach an altar carved from a single block of granite. Behind it, framed by gilded carvings, is a statue of the Virgin Mary with the baby Jesus. After about an hour, we made our way back to our luggage. The subsequent train ride to Hanoi was uneventful, as is the current ride to Sapa. But now it's time to put my phone in my backpack. Maybe I'll get some sleep.