Church of Hvalsey

20 minutes by boat from Qaqortoq lies the ruin of the Viking church - according to the guidebook the best-preserved in Greenland. Built over 700 years ago, it still exudes a dignity that makes one remove their sun hat in reverence upon entering.

The Vikings, who moved here from Iceland just before the turn of the millennium, chose this sunny settlement spot: at the end of a bay, beneath a protective rock. Besides the church ruin, there is another ruin and various remnants of settlements that can only be recognized by stones and walls. Some flowers are blooming, in the distance gulls are screeching; otherwise, it is so quiet that you can hear every mosquito approaching.

In the wilderness, I encounter four Americans. They have followed the Vikings' route to America - only in reverse. Their sailing yacht is anchored in the bay, a dreamy spot for an overnight stay.

My two chauffeurs, on the other hand, take me back to Qaqortoq in a small boat, racing at nearly 30 knots and just in time before the rain hits.