Church of Hvalsey
A 20-minute boat ride from Qaqortoq lies the ruin of the Viking church – according to the guidebook, the best-preserved in Greenland. Built over 700 years ago, it still exudes a...


Published: 17.07.2026
In heavy rain, I set off to the harbor; the strong gusts of wind even turn my umbrella inside out. Not exactly the right weather for a nearly 50 km journey in a small boat. I'm feeling a bit uneasy. But the fjord is relatively calm. This boat, twice the size of yesterday's, powers through the waves at nearly 30 knots. It's no surprise that the captain has installed a cushioned seat.
Arriving in Igaliku right on time, the five passengers climb up the dock. There, an old-timer is already waiting to take us, along with our luggage, to the hotel. I didn't expect a ride for such a short distance—however, the 'roads' are made up of very large pebbles, making it rather uncomfortable to walk with luggage.
I'm staying in one of the cute cabins above the village with a fantastic view over the landscape: below is the almost turquoise shimmering fjord, in the distance the snow-capped mountains, some partially glaciated, and the few buildings of the village scattered across the grasslands, reminiscent of Iceland.
On my first walk (by the way, in a T-shirt), I'm surprised by the large solar array of the village. And for the first time, I see sheep in Greenland. Immediately, one of the shepherd dogs, which evidently roam freely here, follows me. Just like the chickens that stroll around in groups.
