Between Deers and Buddhas – a Day Without the Coffee Nerd

Probably almost everyone who has engaged a bit with Japan – and likely many others as well – knows what I was expecting today when I traveled to Nara.

Today, I was unusually out and about alone. The Coffee Nerd had a few things to take care of, and I used the time to spontaneously take a day trip after all. Destination: Nara.

However, I didn’t manage to avoid some small detours. The familiar confusion regarding subway and train lines caught up with me again today. I ended up at a station where my JR Pass was not valid, meaning I would have to pay extra for the ride. So, I went to the other stop, continued to Osaka Station, and from there took the JR Ring Line towards Nara.

It wasn’t until I was on the train that I realized it was precisely the route I initially came from – just further to Nara. I could have saved the detour via Osaka Station and boarded directly near the hotel. But well, that’s how it is sometimes. I still arrived, just a bit later.

Upon arriving in Nara, my first stop was Nara Park, as that’s where the famous deer should be. To my surprise, however, they weren’t just in the park but actually everywhere.

The deer are incredibly tame. They sniff around you, appear calm and friendly, and even bow – but not out of politeness, rather in hope of Shika Senbei, special rice crackers that are the only thing you are allowed to feed them. As long as you don’t hold any crackers in your hand, they are completely relaxed and will even let you pet them.

However, as soon as they realize you have crackers, that changes dramatically: They become quite cheeky, tugging at jackets or pants, bumping into you, and following you for a bit. But even that lasts only until the crackers are gone. After that, they are back to being completely tame – a very clearly defined system. In Nara, the deer are considered sacred animals and messengers of the gods.

Afterwards, I went back to a museum I had seen on the way: the National Treasure Museum of the Kōfuku-ji Temple. Unfortunately, photography was not allowed there, but the visit was extremely impressive.

There were numerous Buddhist sculptures to see, including about 1.5-meter-high wooden statues of the ten great disciples of Buddha as well as the eight heavenly guardians (Eight Legions). What was particularly impressive was how detailed these figures are, especially considering that some of them have survived multiple fires. Also standing in the middle of the museum was a five-meter-high Buddha statue, next to which you immediately feel very small.

After the museum, I took a look at the Central Golden Hall (Chū-kondō) and the Eastern Golden Hall (Tō-kondō) of the Kōfuku-ji. Both halls contain richly decorated, partially fully gilded Buddhist figures. The name “Golden Hall” is believed to have originated from the fact that the statues glowed golden in candlelight.

Meanwhile, it started to rain lightly – so for a change, no radiant sunshine. But I was prepared for that, so I didn’t let it stop me from visiting another temple. Again past the relaxed deer lying around everywhere, I headed to my next destination: Tōdai-ji.

The way there led through a gate that was so gigantic that I already suspected that the temple itself would have impressive dimensions. In the gate stood large wooden statues representing Buddhist figures on the left and right.

In front of and inside Tōdai-ji, I had my eyes wide open. Although I expected a lot, the temple and its interior can really only be described with one word: imposing. Inside is the Great Buddha of Nara (Daibutsu), a bronze statue of Buddha Vairocana that is about 15 meters tall. And yes: the “thin” Buddha, not the fat one. It is one of the largest Buddha statues in Japan – and the dimensions are hardly comprehensible even in photos.

Afterwards, it was time to slowly head back. Nara certainly has many more temples to offer, but three large sites in one day are then also completely sufficient.

Back at the hotel, I relaxed for a bit until the Coffee Nerd returned (and I almost fell asleep in the meantime). In the evening, we had a shared meal – basically Christmas ramen – before we wrapped up the day comfortably in the hotel room. Christmas itself is not really celebrated here, but ramen are always welcome.

Oh, and finally: How can you tell that I was out without the Coffee Nerd today?

Right, I didn’t visit any cafes in Nara to drink specialty coffees, as I wouldn’t have known what was good without the Coffee Nerd.