Cusco, short of breath

In Arequipa, I met travelers who were completing the Gringo Trail in the opposite direction. They all spoke highly of Cusco. The ancient capital of the Inca Empire was the tourist center of Peru.

From November to April, it was the rainy season in Peru, as a fellow traveler had already pointed out to me three weeks ago in Colombia. Rain jacket and gray clouds were distinctive props in and around Cusco in pictures taken by other travelers.

At the same time, all travel reports always emphasized the high altitude of the city, about 3,400 meters above sea level. Altitude sickness with headaches, fatigue, and breathing difficulties could be a problem for visitors. In addition, I was concerned about how cold it would be at over 3,000 meters above sea level.

With these thoughts in mind, I boarded the night bus at 8 p.m. in Arequipa on Friday. When we arrived in Cusco on Saturday morning around 9 a.m., somewhat rested, the bus had covered about 500 km and nearly 3,000 meters in altitude.

I took a taxi to the Okidoki Hostel. Check-in, coffee, internet research, another coffee, and then at 1 p.m. I joined a city tour. Cusco showed itself in its best light in the sunshine. Only I noticed signs of fatigue. The two and a half hour city walk, the hilly surroundings, and the face mask made it clear to me how thin the air in Cusco was, and I had to struggle for breath more often and more deeply than usual.

Tourism had a firm grip on the city, yet Cusco retained its authenticity despite the numerous travel agencies, massage studios, and restaurants. Its proximity to Machu Picchu and the development of tourism had brought the city a cultural and financial boom that did not slide into cheapness and banality.

My next task was to figure out how and in what price range I would be able to visit Machu Picchu.

On Saturday evening, I met Christan, who happened to work in the tourism industry and helped me make a decision. After all, visiting the Inca city was a big business where you could spend a lot of money. I gratefully accepted the help. On Sunday, I took care of getting a ticket and accommodation in the nearby Aguas Calientes.

I felt comfortable in Cusco. I would get used to the thin air and rain only fell late at night, which was very helpful for falling asleep after a long day.