01.-08.10.2017 Starigrad – Zadar – Markarska – Dubrovnik

Croatia and I have a shared history. I was here once before in 2013. Back then in the region of Krk and Porec. And I found it only moderately good. First, I had the feeling that you were being ripped off everywhere at inappropriate prices, and secondly, I found the atmosphere in which hotels and campsites were adapted to nature and the environment not very inspiring.

Do you want to know why? A lot of trash, little love, much optimized for mass tourism.

However, Croatia deserved a second chance. The first contact with Croatia should be on a hike from Slovenia to Croatia, through the Rijniak National Park. Even here, we were charged 7 euros per person to walk through nature. I think that's okay, but then you also expect trails and that the trash is removed - except it wasn't. The park is still recommended, though.

Next stop was Starigrad, at a small campsite. It was called "Camp Stine", highly recommended, and located right next to Paklenica National Park. This time we took the highway directly and, shortly after the last tunnel, suddenly the gas pedal fell to the floor and the throttle cable was gone. Fortunately, the bus rolled out of the tunnel and stopped at the next exit on a hill. Hmmmm...I looked at the whole thing, fumbled around a bit, no idea or little idea, sweat covered my armpit - so I called the ADAC and after 90 minutes a big tow truck arrived. The tow truck driver took a quick look at the engine, went back to the car, and came back with a piece of wire. He mumbled something about IMPROVISARI and grinned. He grinned, looked at the engine out of interest, and thumbs up. Then I should give it some gas - it worked 😊. So we drove the last 13 minutes and arrived at the campsite.

The surroundings were the setting for the Winnetou books filmed in 1963 by Karl May. Of course, entrance to Paklenica National Park was charged again - but it is beautifully developed. There was an unlimited network of trails and climbing routes throughout the park. You could probably spend at least 2 weeks here. The hike to Anica Luc, with 500 meters in altitude over 2.5 km, was quite something, but incredibly beautiful. The last 400 meters were more like climbing than hiking. I was glad to have gained some experience by now.

The area in front of the park - a long littered main road over 30 km with countless, faded restaurants and apartments (probably from the 80s and 90s) - you have to imagine that away. We were briefly inclined to eat fish after seeing the menu and being asked to pay 30 euros for a fried fish, but we decided to postpone that chapter for now and turned around. The next day my legs were sore and I chose a road bike route - and tada, the next spoke broke. I don't want to be annoyed anymore, I think everyone can imagine it. The day was marked by bad mood, looking for spokes nipples within a radius of 50 km, repairing spokes, balancing the wheel, and breaking 2 inner tubes and one tire in the process - yea 😊. I got the tools and parts in Zadar - a historic city with a historic harbor they said. I still have the image of colored ice cream and huge bars with incredibly loud David Guetta music in my head when thinking of the city. Yea, again.

The next day, I rewarded myself with a really nice tour of the surrounding area. The goal was a canyon, also a setting for Winnetou. Suddenly, I fell in love with Croatia all over again. In the steppe, in the endless roads, in the weather (I think I spent the first evening emphasizing how beautiful the weather is), in the surroundings next to the tourist centers.

Nevertheless, it was time to move on - next stop, the campsite Autocamp Krvavica - next to Marakask near the Sveti Jure National Park. The place was already extremely pleasant and the beach only 300 m away. Somehow a very different, beautiful Croatia. The next day, I went on a bike tour to Sveti Jure - from 0 to 1753 m over 72 km. I have never seen so much beauty in such a short time. Views from 1500 m below the clouds, a rugged mountain landscape with racing clouds, visibility under 10 m, and then the weather changes in a short time. 

For me, one of the most beautiful experiences so far. In the evening, I ran the 5 km to Markaska and back to loosen up my legs and a real storm was brewing. This would determine the next 2 nights and days. At night, we lay awake, rocked by the wind, feeling like we were getting seasick, the trip to the toilet was adventurous and dangerous, and after strategically moving the bus twice (less trees = more safety), we could finally close our eyes. Except for deep eye circles and some loss of dishes, nothing was left behind. Markaska is comparable to Zadar, so not worth mentioning, but right next to the campsite there was an interesting ruin, a former children's spa building from the 60s. A great futuristic building that invites exploration. Currently, the building is protected from demolition so that it can be reconstructed. I wonder what will become of it. Check it out if you are in the area.

The next day we were supposed to continue towards Montenegro, with a stopover in Dubrovnik. I was attracted to Dubrovnik because of its location and long history. The city already looks like a stronghold from afar. When I walked through the old town, I quickly got annoyed by the crowds of tourists and returned after 1.5 hours and a stir-fried noodle dish with fusilli pasta for 10 euros, looking forward to Montenegro.

Conclusion Croatia: Croatia did not improve its image for me. But it did hold up a mirror to me. I simply don't find it likable here, and I can't really explain it. You have to know what you want and not let exaggerated expectations lead to disappointment. If you want the tourist paradise with the option for one or two day trips, then you are in the right place. You'll be able to eat your fill at every corner, always find accommodation, and communication is not the warmest (understandably, with so many demanding tourists coming in), but no problem. What is really outstanding are the many diverse national parks. For individual travelers, I can only recommend it to a limited extent.