Day 13

The day began with a rather feared breakfast—fish, some kind of meat, algae, and a few other ingredients I couldn’t quite place. Though not my usual fare, I bravely sipped the miso soup and got on with the day. Salvation, however, arrived swiftly at the train station in the form of a coffee shop.

There, I crossed paths with a delightful Swedish couple. Soon after, the New Zealanders appeared, and eventually, the charming pair from Seattle. All of us were bound for the Nakasendo Trail, a merry band of global hikers. This time, however, I applied a nugget of hard-won wisdom: maintain my own pace, follow no one, and—most crucially—mind where I place my feet. A revelation, really. It worked spectacularly!

The hike itself was lush with greenery, so much so that at times it felt like I was on the verge of a "green-out"—the summer cousin to the wintry "white-out," where sky and ground merge into a monochrome blur.

The trail took me over a pass that felt like a mere stroll compared to yesterday’s trials, and then on to a breathtaking shrine, hidden in the midst of the woods. On the other side of the pass, the village of Narai emerged, a prosperous post town renowned for its lacquerware and the famously delicate Orokugushi combs. These combs are quite something—each 10-centimeter comb boasts over 100 teeth, each less than a millimeter wide. Probably perfect for sleek Asian locks, though I imagine they'd meet their match in my hair, which might snap them in half!

From Narai, I walked a bit further before catching the train to Matsumoto, where, to my delight, I reunited with my walking companions—now joined by a lovely couple from Quebec, whose French accent is an adventure in itself.

After racking up another 20,000 steps, I called it a day. Tomorrow no hike – hurray!