2025-02-19 to the West Coast, NZL

19.2.25 Invercargill -> Clifden, 73km, 300hm. I wake up early and attempt to upload pictures for a blog, but the internet is so slow that it doesn't work. At 7:30 AM, I start moving west under a cloudy sky. I initially wanted to take the 99 route along the coast, but the navigation suggests a 15-kilometer shorter route through the countryside on smaller roads. Since I have to drive out of the city on HW 6 and 99 anyway, I can see how much traffic is on the main road. However, I need to stop first because it starts to rain. It would have been easier to pack everything in plastic while still at the campsite. On one hand, I had hoped it wouldn’t rain, and on the other, I wanted to conserve the plastic bags. There are too many cars on the 99 diverting to the side road towards Waianiwa. I take a breakfast break in an open garage just as it starts to rain again. I wave to the people in the window and get an okay and a chair to sit on. I stay here for nearly an hour and chat on the phone with Barbara R. Sometimes the sheep or cows watch quietly, and sometimes an animal gets startled, causing the whole herd to run. There’s not much to discover on the way to Otautau. I buy beer, broccoli, and a pack of four ice creams in cones. Not far from the store is a seating area. I actually wanted to have lunch but ice cream has calories too. The wind is mostly kind to me today, and I make good progress, even though it’s getting hillier again. I overtake many people who are on the really long hiking trail Te Araroa. They are self-sufficient but must bring supplies for six days to be able to shop again. So far on the bike, I’m doing better. Orawia is one of those small villages with about 5 houses thrown together. Sometimes they look like better sheds, but there are also newer houses with large windows that look more luxurious. There's even a small swimming pool at the entrance of the village, but it's overgrown with grass. It hasn’t been used for a long time. After two more hills, I go down to the Waiau. Here is a parking area for motorhomes with a toilet and water. A grassy area in front of the old suspension bridge is designated as a picnic and camping site. So I can set up my tent here. It is quite cool in the wind, and I need to put on something warmer. Today, I have rice with mung beans and broccoli. Just as I finish my meal, it starts to drizzle, and I read in the tent. After that, I take a nap and wake up just in time for sunset. The view from the bridge is fantastic. The sun and clouds reflect in the river, and I take many photos.
20.2.25 Clifden-> Manapouri, book shop->Deer Flat. During the night, I woke up because the bites on my legs were itchy. I don't even know where I got them all. I discovered some sandflies. They like to sit on my feet between the sandal straps. Since I am awake now, I go to the toilet, the moon shines brightly. I sleep until 7 AM. At sunrise, the spider webs on the bridge are beautifully illuminated. I take some more photos. At 8:20 AM, I’m on the road under bright sunshine. In the distance, mountains are visible. Unfortunately, the wind is coming from the front and is getting stronger. I have my muesli and chat on the phone with Ludwig. Bolstered by this, I continue through the glowing landscape. An info stand invites for a walk around Borland Lodge. Against the wind, I can only manage 10km/h. Then the road leaves the valley and climbs a hill up to 400m. I really have to fight; I reach the top at 1 PM. The clouds are increasing, and according to the weather report, it’s supposed to rain soon. At the next rest area, I take a lunch break despite being hungry. Just as I have carefully packed everything in plastic, Mark comes out of his green Jucy camper and offers me a ride. It’s only another 20km to my destination, which I could manage in the rain, but I accept the invitation for company. In front of the Two Wee bookshop in Manapouri, it starts to rain. I take the promised photos for Martina R. Unfortunately, Ruth isn’t there because she has a reading. Now I need to decide whether to go to the campground here or to drive with Mark to Milford Sound. I choose the latter. We stop in Te Anau to shop and drive north on the 94. It’s clouding over more and more and raining, but we stop several times to take photos. At 5 PM, we find a spot for my tent and the camper at the Doc Camp Deer Flat. In the rain, I set up the tent. Naturally, the ground tarp and the inner tent get wet. It’s all very uncomfortable. Mark heats up a can of spaghetti on the stove, and I can also use the stove. I begin to chop under the tailgate. I sauté onions, garlic, and meat in the pot. I want to cook the pasta, but the gas is out. So I have to set up my equipment after all. Now it also drips in through the tailgate and from the sides, but we stand firm, drink a beer, and eat what we have for dessert: melon. At 8 PM, I crawl into my damp tent and try to upload pictures, but the reception here is too poor.