Back to Cairo

Today we leave Aswan behind and return to Cairo. It's a shame, I really like Aswan and would love to stay longer.

But there is still a lot to see in Cairo. We don't have much time for sightseeing today, even though we arrived in Cairo at 10am. It's the first day of Ramadan and the attractions close earlier. Plus, no one wants to work if they don't have to. That means it's also harder to find bus drivers or guides for the sights. The group splits up: some visit the pyramids of Saqqara and Memphis. Others visit the new Egyptian Museum (GEM), which was supposed to open in 2020 - and still hasn't opened. But you can already visit it, although many exhibits are not yet on display. It is now scheduled to open in mid/late 2023 (inshallah...).

I want to go to the Coptic Quarter of Cairo alone. First, Hoda drops me off at the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization (NMEC). A very nice collection with some extraordinary exhibits. Among other things, the royal mummies can be seen there. I am also interested in the textile exhibition, although you can skip the 2nd floor. I can't stay there for more than 2 hours, otherwise I won't have enough time for the Coptic Quarter. By the way, you should stay away from the cafeteria at the NMEC. I managed to take a bite and a sip, but then I had to run away from the so-called 'food'. And that in a Civilization Museum!

I take an Uber and quickly notice that barricades have been set up around the entire Coptic Quarter and there is much more police presence than anywhere else. The reality is that the Copts are repeatedly targeted in attacks. All the attractions inside the quarter are guarded and you have to go through security checks. But these checks seem to be just as useful as anywhere else in Egypt. It seems to be more about creating a sense of security and control than actually being secure. But I'm not thinking too much about that now.

The atmosphere in the quarter is very nice, although it is occasionally interrupted by groups marching through the narrow streets. I visit St. George's Church, the Hanging Church, the Sergios and Bakchos Church, and St. Barbara's Church. It may sound like a lot of churches, but they are relatively small. I particularly like the Sergios and Bakchos Church, the oldest church in the Coptic Quarter. My visit to St. Barbara's Church was also exceptional, as I entered just as the church service began. Enveloped in incense, I listen to the singing of the priest (or whatever he is called in the Coptic Church). It creates a mystical atmosphere, and fortunately, he has a beautiful, velvety and bright voice. I like the singing, it is a mixture of Arabic music with Christian motifs. There seems to be a kind of cantor who introduces the congregation to the church service. The Lord's Prayer is clearly recognizable: even if I don't understand a word, the ritual is the same.

After some wandering around the quarter, it is high time for me to return. This time, I take the metro, which is the fastest way. It works perfectly, it's clean and safe. There is also a car specifically for women.

I lose my orientation at Tahrir Square, until I finally make it back to the hotel, practically walking in a circle. Well, it's also a historic place, so it can't hurt.

At 7pm, we leave to get something to eat. The streets are deserted, at least for Cairo standards: the iftar (breaking of the fast) started shortly after 6pm and everyone who can has returned home. Almost eerie. But a few hours later, the usual honking of cars is back.