8. Tag 6 to Villafranca de los Barros

I slept well, even though the mattress has seen better days. I correct myself, I slept through the night. I went to bed relatively early yesterday and fell asleep quickly. I was exhausted from the day. My alarm was set for 6 AM and I would have liked to sleep longer. I lay down for another 10 minutes, then I packed my things, changed clothes, and was ready by around 7 AM. It's amazing how even the smallest activities add up. I had packed my backpack, but then I forgot my headlamp inside it. So I had to unpack everything again. Then it was off into the darkness; first out of the city where it was still light, but outside I definitely needed my headlamp because it was pitch dark. The ground was still a bit swollen, but slowly it was getting lighter. However, inexplicably, I was just cold today. I had never felt cold the days before, but for some reason, I didn't have good thoughts today and honestly didn't feel like hiking at all. I have been on the road for a few days, and normally I stop complaining, but today it was a bit rough. I had left my old jacket at the accommodation because my backpack felt too heavy, but just 5 minutes outside, I already regretted that decision. Well. I had no choice but to keep marching on. The trail went through the pampa and was a bit muddy here and there, but everything was manageable. And with the sun out, the world looked so much better. So I took a break in the next village, which felt really good. Shoes off, bread and water. Perfect. After half an hour, I continued, needing about another 1.5 hours to reach Zafra, the nearest larger town. There, I went into a supermarket that was open despite it being Sunday, and got myself a little something. I also ate it on the next bench. I really need to take more breaks. After a break, I always feel well rested. The plan was to either go another 5 km to the next village or to add another 15 km on top. And since I was well fueled, I opted for the longer distance. It was back out into the green and I turned on the Camino podcast, as a new episode was online. In the podcast, Marcus and Theresa philosophize about the Camino de Santiago. After that, I listened to a bit of music, and even though I walk without music, it always gives me a push. So I continued, and it got a bit muddy again. My shoes were drowning in the mud, and afterward, I had to walk along the highway for a bit. After that, it didn't feel far to the destination anymore and I was very relieved. Everything was very quiet since it was Sunday and a small town. Then I arrived at my accommodation, where the reception was closed. No one answered the number posted outside, and now I was worried that the albergue was already full, even though I had made a reservation yesterday. It was half past five, and I would really like to get in soon. I was also looking up other accommodations in the village, as I definitely couldn’t continue further today. After such a long stage, it is a bit annoying, but it will sort itself out and if worse comes to worst, I might have to get a hotel. The prices here range between €30 and €40. I'm sitting in the stairwell and writing these lines because I can't do anything else right now. I thought about going to get something to eat, but if the host of the albergue calls back, that would be awkward.

Update: I've waited for 1.5 hours and received no response. My battery is down to single digits, I'm cold, I'm hungry, and I have no motivation. I'm getting a bit angry because no one is responding, and it still says downstairs that the albergue is open until 11 PM. Well, it doesn't help, and I call the three hotels in the area. One is fully booked, and both cost €50 per night. Great. I mean, you always have to expect that, but it's still annoying. If the hotels are booked, I would have had to get a taxi to the next town, where something would have had to be available, so it could always be worse. I'm heading to the hotel and getting a water. Then, out of desperation, I call the accommodation again, and the owner answers and asks me if everything is okay and what's going on. I mean, I sent him three messages in Spanish and called about 10 times. Anyway, he tells me that he is there and I don't need to worry. I am relieved and somewhat annoyed by his attitude, but that’s how it is here in Spain sometimes. I go up the stairs and see an older gentleman in a Hawaiian shirt and long hair who starts bombarding me with Spanish. He's nice, though. Since the first floor is full, I can go to the second floor, where there’s a kind of holiday apartment, and I have the choice between different beds and I decide on the double bed. He also offers to wash, dry, and fold my laundry for free. All of this for €15. I can't be angry at him anymore. And I also get a towel. I'm so satisfied, and when hot water comes out of the tap in the shower after just 3 seconds, I feel like I’m in heaven. After that, I lay down in bed and rest for a bit. Tomorrow I have another long stage planned of 40 kilometers to Mérida. Unfortunately, the stages are spaced out awkwardly; I could walk 16 kilometers, but that's too little for me, and then there's not another place until 24 kilometers later. Unfortunately, the albergue network on this Camino is not well developed, but I chose this route. I’ll make something to eat. I have a roll, tomato sauce, and almonds. Oh yeah, and 1 liter of water. That will be enough for today. Then I'll book the accommodation for tomorrow because there are no albergues in the city or ones where you can't reserve, and I'll be arriving in the afternoon, and I don’t want to have to scramble to find something again. When the stages aren't too long, it's not a problem, but after 40 kilometers or more, you really don’t have the energy to find a place to stay.

In that sense, I’ll get in touch tomorrow.