Himalaya - Pokhara - Delhi

Day 10: Gorak Shep - Kala Patthar - Dengbuche

The night before, someone had a device to measure blood oxygen levels. Mine was at 52%, while the people around me were at 75% to 80%. In the morning, I had a value of 68%. We actually only wanted to climb the 5,648-meter-high Kala Patthar in good weather. Someone in the teahouse half-heartedly told me to take a pill for my stomach and another one for the headaches. I did as I was told. After about an hour, I was ready to climb Mount Everest directly, I have no idea what that stuff was. Despite the medication, I decided not to climb Island Peak. It just doesn't make sense health-wise. My headaches didn't go away, the nosebleeds got worse, and the pills only alleviate the symptoms, not the cause. So, at 5 a.m., we climbed Kala Patthar, exhausting and bitterly cold with snowfall starting. My drinking bladder froze, and the view wasn't optimal, but still impressive. Afterwards, we went back from 5,648m to just over 4,000m to Dengbuche. My headaches returned briefly after the effect of the pills subsided. Below 4,200m, the green vegetation slowly returns.

Day 11: Dengbuche - Namche Bazar

Today, we descended another 800m. My headaches disappeared, and even my guide became more active, starting to talk, sing, and whistle more. In hindsight, it confirmed my observation that the past few days had passed by like slow motion. Activity decreases in everyone, and everyone struggles with something: headaches, cracked lips, swollen hands, nosebleeds, or simply tiredness.

Day 12: Namche Bazar - Phakding

Today, we continued downhill to 2,600m. I was feeling physically better. The landscape turned green again, and the valleys were beautiful to behold.

What was the most challenging for me in hindsight? Definitely the headaches, equally matched by the terrible cold. I haven't properly washed my hands for 10 days. The water is simply too cold, and my hands don't warm up without movement. But lots of disinfectant also helps. Going to the bathroom at night? A torture. Getting out of the somewhat warm sleeping bag, walking down a long, cold corridor with my headlamp (if I don't have to change buildings) and trying to aim for the hole in the ground. The flush is a barrel of frozen water, breaking the ice and scooping water. At least now I can use French toilets without accidents. Going back to the cold bed and hoping I won't have to go again. The coldest night was minus 15 degrees, and in my room, it was probably minus 5°C. During the day, without the sun, it was between minus 5°C and minus 10°C. Thanks to my gloves and thermal underwear, I stayed warm as long as we were moving. The third and equally big problem was the lack of hygiene. You have to have a strong nose; the porters who carry heavy bags haven't showered for a while, but my body also hasn't seen any water for 10 days. I could buy a bag of lukewarm water almost anywhere, but as soon as I undressed in those temperatures, everything would freeze before the first drop of water could flow. Plus, I would probably have caught something. A few minor things added up as well. My face and hands were swollen, and I felt a bit like the Michelin Man in the morning. Despite using lots of lip balm, my lips slowly began to crack, and my skin became dry. Only my legs, knees, and feet didn't cause any problems. No blisters or other pains.

Day 13: Phakding - Lukla

Just 200m more and I was back at the starting point. Since the hike only took 2 and a half hours, we got to our accommodation quite quickly, and I spent the whole day watching planes take off and land at the world's most dangerous airport. Still impressive!
After 150 kilometers and 8,500m of elevation, I'm back at the starting point of my journey. It does annoy me a bit that I couldn't climb Island Peak, but at least now I have a reason to come back.

Day 14: Lukla - Kathmandu

Kathmandu flight back. Another short thrill to see if we really reached the necessary speed on the short runway, and 25 minutes later, I was back in Kathmandu. So, I'm back 4 days earlier than planned, and now what? Stay in Kathmandu? No! A 10-hour bus ride of 200km at 35 degrees Celsius without air conditioning to Pokhara? Yes!

Pokhara

Finally, it got warm again. 30 degrees and a lake to relax by. That's enough for the last few days in Nepal. You can do various activities here, and they are quite affordable: rafting, paragliding, canyoning, bungee jumping, and much more. I decided to get a shave, a massage, and take a boat trip on the lake. Oh, and an early morning cable car ride at 5 o'clock to finally see the most beautiful sunrise in the world, at least that's what I've been promised for the past two weeks. But again, there were lots of clouds, maybe I was just unlucky, or maybe there is no perfect sunrise here. So far, nothing compares to the sunrise at Mount Ijen! Also, for some reason, I often thought about the nature in Indonesia: the orangutans in Sumatra, the impressive waterfall in Malang, Mount Ijen in Java, or the Komodo dragons. Maybe a sign and a good travel destination for December...

Since I didn't feel like taking a 10-hour bus ride over rough terrain again, I treated myself to a flight back, a 25-minute flight with Yeti Airlines. Flight number 6 of my journey. I won't win any climate awards this year.

Delhi

I had somehow forgotten how interesting and annoying India is at the same time. Everything is three times as loud, there are three times as many people, but the food is also three times as delicious. At 42°C in the shade, I visit the sights in stages: 3 hours in the morning, then 2 hours in the hotel, 2 hours in the afternoon, 2 hours in the hotel, and then out again in the evening. At 11 p.m., it was still 32°C, but warmth definitely suits me better than cold. I visit the government district, a few parks, old palaces, and the big fortress. Despite or after corona, many still want to take photos with me and shake hands. The subway is crowded, pushed, and shoved. I have definitely left social distancing behind. For India beginners, Delhi is a real recommendation, as long as you don't mind physical contact with strangers, disfigured people, garbage, poverty, stench, eating with your hands, and occasional lack of hygiene.

So, the 3 and a half weeks have passed, and tomorrow I will fly home via Dubai with Flight No. 8 & 9 of this trip.