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Day 20: Up close with Pico

Atejade: 16.08.2020

July 24, 2020

Today we don't have a fixed program, so we are flexible.

We spend the morning relaxed on the terrace and think about what to do on this beautiful weather day.

My foot feels better, I hardly have any pain anymore, but I'm worried because it changes color and swells up every day.

I can walk almost painlessly, and I believe the more I move, the better it gets (even though it doesn't look like it)

Cooling the foot with a view

Once again, there is hardly a cloud in the sky, so we decide to drive to 'Pico' after a small lunch snack.

We already saw the turnoff to Caso da Montanha, the highest point you can reach by car on Pico, yesterday on our way back through the interior of the island.

Hortensias everywhere by the roadside

The road leads us into the interior of the island, steep uphill and past the many beautiful hydrangeas, until we see Pico directly in front of us.

Pico - with a few clouds

There are only a few clouds on Pico, so it looks good for our plan to visit Casa da Montanha.

Pico with stone head
Hydrangeas with Pico
The road continues straight ahead
I see the road ahead of us!

It's really a curse, but the closer we get to Pico, the more clouds form. So when we reach the turnoff to Casa Montanha, we can't see Pico anymore, and the road to Pico is covered in dense clouds and fog.

We decide to 'leave Pico alone' for now and continue towards Madalena, where we take the turnoff to Gruta das Torres. We didn't really want to go there since we already saw the supposedly most beautiful caves on Terceira, but we can't think of anything else.

I'm just skeptical because I saw pictures in the guidebook with a lot of stairs. Will I be able to do that with my foot!? Well, let's go and see - worst case, I'll just wait in the car.

View of Faial

On the way, we have a fantastic view of the neighboring island of Faial, where we were yesterday. Today, there is not a single cloud at the Caldeira.... grumble.

Faial

Meanwhile, Pico continues to be covered in clouds.

More and more clouds are moving toward Pico

We arrive at Gruta das Torres at 1:50 p.m., and the cave opens at 2 p.m. There are already 4 cars in the parking lot, and more cars arrive in the next few minutes. Okay, we are not alone here.

At 2 p.m., the tourists rush to the entrance. We wait a bit and follow with sufficient distance. On the way to the information/ticket counter, we already see the first vacationers coming back, scolding and shaking their heads.

Hmm.....

I'm irritated that you have to give your name and fill out a form. I sense something bad: you need a reservation... Damn - we didn't have one, of course.

Before we leave - the kids are briefly disappointed because the displayed pictures of the cave look very promising - my husband goes to the bathroom while we walk back to the car.

Half of the cars are now gone.

A German couple sits in their car, with the guidebook on their lap, and also leaves the parking lot, cursing and grumbling. They were there before us and apparently had to wait much longer than everyone else.

We are already ready to go in the car when my husband comes running back. It's 2:10 p.m., the guided tour of the cave was supposed to start at 2 p.m., but 3 people who had reservations didn't show up.

So, three of us are allowed in the cave!

That's what I call "being lucky" *grinning*.

Since I probably wouldn't have been able to walk the stairs anyway, my husband goes to the cave with the kids, and I sit in the car and relax with the windows and doors open. The sun is blazing, and the thermometer shows +28 degrees. Phew....

However, I underestimated the duration of the tour! Meanwhile, I look on the cave's website on my phone to see what the family is seeing and how long it takes.

I gulp when I see that the average duration of the visit is 90 minutes. Okay... so I still have to "sunbathe" for another whole hour.

During the 1.5 hours that I wait, more tourists keep arriving and walk to the entrance, only to return either cursing and grumbling or disappointed.

Okay, we are not the only ones who didn't know that a reservation is required.

According to the internet, this is recommended during the high season, but the current Covid situation is not mentioned (that only a maximum of 13 people are allowed in the cave, the tour is shortened, and only 2 tours take place each day....)

Edit: Make sure to make a reservation online via the website before your arrival, otherwise it will be difficult to visit the cave with Covid-19 restrictions!!!

A group of Portuguese senior citizens is particularly affected. They arrive in a small bus (taxi!?) and then stand on the parking lot 15 minutes later, gesticulating wildly and apparently not knowing how to leave.

They start walking along the road, talking on the phone, until I can't see them anymore.

At 3:40 p.m., the family returns to the car and is thrilled with the cave. It's completely different from the caves we visited on Terceira.

There were many stairs (not for me) and quite adventurous, as you would sometimes walk in complete darkness with flashlights. Sounds great!

Here are the photos they took

Entrance to the cave

Mask wearing is mandatory in Gruta das Torres as well!

Pico no longer looks completely covered in clouds, so we now try to make a detour to Casa da Montanha on the way back.

View from the Gruta da Torres parking lot of Pico

The clouds are now hanging more below Pico, so we try our luck.

The higher we drive, the fewer clouds there are. Perfect!

Once we reach the top, Pico doesn't look so high anymore, and there isn't a single cloud around it!

So close to Pico!
Casa da Montanha with Pico

However, the view of the neighboring island of Faial is now blocked by clouds.

New clouds are forming around us and others are dissolving at a rapid pace.

Crazy, like being in a cloud factory!

Nothing can be seen from Faial

On the way back down, we suddenly can't see anything anymore. We are in the midst of a cloud veil

We can't see anything anymore even when looking up towards Pico.

Crazy how quickly the weather changes here...

A few hundred meters further, the spell is already over, and the clouds are almost gone

A cow on the hill
Downhill road towards Sao Roquee

Since it is still very warm, we want to stop and swim at the rock pool in Sao Roque.

So far, I have had bad luck with swimming and lava pools on Pico, so now a positive experience is urgently needed!

There isn't much going on at the lava pools 'Piscina Naturais São Roque.' The parking lot above is free, and there is plenty of space around the pool.

There are also changing rooms, showers, and toilets, where according to the sign, MASKS ARE REQUIRED, but I am once again the only one who adheres to it.

The locals seem to ignore the sign completely, especially the older bathers consistently disregard it....

Walking barefoot to the pool is difficult for me, but when my foot is in the cool Atlantic water, it feels great!

The sea is calm, there are no jellyfish or other creatures, so we can swim peacefully - and that's exactly what we do: delightful!!!

It's great here!

We stay at the lava pool until 6 p.m., then we start to feel hungry.

Our vacation home is just below the MAGMA restaurant, which borders the holiday home complex 'Lava Homes.'

Therefore, we decide to go out for dinner today as the conclusion of our Pico vacation.

View from the restaurant terrace

After dinner, we pack our suitcases and then sit outside until late at night, enjoying the starry sky, including the Milky Way and Comet Neowise!

Unbelievably beautiful!!!

Sunset
Faintly visible on the left edge is Neowise
Neowise
Starry sky
Milky Way








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Portugal
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