Day 13 Big Island - Puna District, Carlsmith Beach Park, Hilo

August 4, 2022

After breakfast, we leave our idyllic Alii Kane Cottage and head towards Puna District for our first stop today, the Lava Tree State Monument. We are completely alone on the short circular path here, passing the funny-looking Lava Trees.

Then we drive along the newly built road that runs through the lava field that formed after the last volcanic eruption in 2018. There used to be houses here - now there is only lava. Amazing...

We turn around and continue south, turning into the residential area of Leilani Estates. Here we find many closed roads - END OF THE ROAD - that were destroyed by the 2018 lava flow. It's quite scary to see lava mounds behind some houses where there used to be homes. There are also smokes coming out of the ground at various places.

We don't feel very comfortable here and continue driving. Along the road, we see a sign "Scenic Point" and spontaneously follow the narrow road uphill. We don't find a "Scenic Point" but instead discover a "Lost Place". Up here on the hill is a cemetery for huge working machines. They were driven up the hill to rust away. It's sad, but also fascinating to see these gigantic rusty monsters up close. Back on the road, we follow it to the southeasternmost end, the Isaac Hale State Park that was newly formed by the 2018 volcanic eruption. Unfortunately, it's not really suitable for swimming. At least not today. The waves are quite strong, the red flags are waving, and besides a handful of sunbathers and 2 lifeguards, there is no one here.

We snack on some crackers and then drive back through the lava fields until we stop at a small parking lot, the Lauhala Land Lookout, surrounded by palm trees. What wonderful photo opportunities!

It's already noon, and we decide to continue towards Hilo. For today's swimming and snorkeling spot, I have chosen Carlsmith Beach Park. Here, you can swim and snorkel in a lagoon that consists partly of fresh water, which then transitions into brackish water and saltwater towards the ocean.

We reach the park around 1 pm and luckily find a parking spot right away as someone is leaving. It's crowded here, the road is completely packed with cars. Incredible! We take a quick look at the surroundings and then have lunch. After that, we find a spot by the lagoon and venture into the crystal-clear - freezing cold - water. Wow, very refreshing. Here, cold fresh water actually flows into the ocean and feeds the lagoon. The sand in the water is very fine. as we snorkel towards the ocean with our snorkel masks, we see the streaks where brackish water and freshwater mix. We see a large turtle and a few fish, but overall the place is more appealing above water.

We enjoy the lagoon, splash around and swim - wonderful!

After drying off, we've had enough for today and drive back to Hilo along the coast. There's traffic everywhere - how annoying. We don't see much of Hilo itself, but we don't really like it. But since we're here, we stop at Wailuku River State Park to see the first stop, the Rainbow Falls, the Boiling Pots, and the Peepee Falls. You used to be able to go down to the Peepee Falls and swim in them, but now it's strictly prohibited. There are signs and barriers everywhere, indicating that many people have climbed down there despite the warnings.

We start our return journey on the Saddle Road around 4 pm. Just like last time, there is thick fog above, behind the turn to Mauna Kea, and it's pouring rain today. Where there used to be many goats and sheep on the side of the road, the animals are now ON the road, licking the rainwater flowing down from the asphalt. I have to brake sharply several times to avoid hitting any of them. Unfortunately, not everyone is as careful, as we see 2 roadkill animals on the side of the road. Their thirst got the best of them.

As soon as we descend back to the coast, the sun is shining again. I'm glad we don't have to drive this route again. It does drag on like chewing gum.

We arrive at our "Magic Sands Beach" right on time for the sunset (today it barely has any sand) and enjoy the sunset on the beach before treating ourselves to a late sundowner on the balcony.