Yazd - guest at Ali

At around eight o'clock on Friday morning (January 24, 2020), we reach the bus station in Yazd. The site is located about 10 km west of the historic old town. The night on the bus was not particularly restful, so I use the warming morning sun to doze off on a park bench. Then it's time for a small breakfast for myself and the dog. A gifted tea complements the meal perfectly. In the meantime, I am looking for an accommodation in the city through Couchsurfing. In the late morning, it's finally time to head towards the city center. After a little coffee break, we reach the Dowlat Abad Garden. I leave Rango and my luggage in front of the premises and immediately start a conversation with a taxi driver. The man collects foreign currencies and offers a few old Iranian banknotes in exchange for Ukrainian Hryvnia. In addition, we arrange a small tour through Yazd for the next morning. I only had a 200 UHA banknote, which is worth a few euros, whereas the Rial notes hardly have any value due to inflation in recent years. Then we continue towards the historic old town, where Ali has offered me accommodation. Arriving at the Silk Road Hotel, I have some doubts whether the establishment is still within my budget, and if Rango would be allowed in the room. After a short chat (Ali is not there, but his employee is well-informed), I am treated to a coffee and Rango is allowed to sit by my side in the cozy covered courtyard. The accommodation is also free and Rango can spend the night in the otherwise uninhabited communal dormitory. A small meal is included. This is the famous Persian hospitality! In the evening, I take a stroll in the old town of Yazd with the dog. The winding alleyways and houses plastered with clay remind me of the oasis cities in Central Asia. The so-called wind towers (Bādgir) that shape the cityscape are new, though. They apparently provide bearable temperatures inside the houses during the hot summer months through a difference in pressure. Back at the hotel, the dog and I have a small dinner before we close the buttons and go to sleep early.

Thursday starts around nine o'clock with a small breakfast in the hotel garden. Vegetable, cheese, and bread accompany the delicious lentil soup, as well as coffee, various teas, and juices. Then, well strengthened, I stroll with the dog to the Dowlat Abad Garden and look out for the taxi driver from the previous day. No one is there. It would have been too good to be true. While continuing the tour through the very attractive city center, I find an espresso and contact my grandparents in the winterly Ore Mountains again before returning to the Silk Road Hotel. After updating my parents on the latest news, coffee and pastries provide some energy and motivation, allowing me to do some laundry in the hotel courtyard and hang it on the roof of the building. The view over the old town at dusk suggests another walk with the dog. So we wander aimlessly for a bit in the evening and enjoy the mild temperatures.

The delicious breakfast at the Silk Road Hotel makes it much easier for me to start the Sunday (January 26, 2020). Well energized, we head towards the Dowlat Abad Garden again, and once again the taxi driver doesn't show up. The Iranians don't seem to be reliable despite their hospitality. After a bit of annoyance, I can't help but laugh at myself and my gullibility. We continue to the nearby bus station. I want to inquire about options to get to Shahr-e Babak. The cave village of Maymand is located nearby, and I would like to visit it. I am directed to a bus station slightly further south. On the way there, I am once again stopped by a police patrol who informs me that dogs are prohibited here. The language barrier and my explanation that I am a German tourist defuse the situation, and we can continue. At the bus stop for intercity buses, I can find the person in charge of the only bus (according to his own statement) to Shahr-e Babak. At first, it seems impossible to bring Rango along for religious reasons, but later the concerns could be dispelled with an additional fee. At 1 million Rials, it is quite overpriced, considering that I arrived from Mashhad for the same price. So I continue south with Rango and stop at a small hidden coffee bar on the way. By now, the 'Towers of Silence' of Yazd are not too far away. In ancient times, followers of the Zoroastrian religion laid out their deceased there to be eaten by vultures. Upon arriving at the foot of the two hills, I pay the entrance fee and to my surprise, I can even bring Rango with me. Behind the entrance booth, there are a few clusters of houses that resemble historical buildings, where the relatives of the deceased waited for the execution. All quite impressive and interesting. The view from the hills over the city of Yazd compensates for the strenuous ascent. According to information signs, there is apparently still a small but active Zoroastrian community in the area who are allowed to practice their beliefs. Fortunately, the burial rite seems to have changed, and the towers were empty. It is already late afternoon when we make our way back to the Silk Road Hotel. On the way through a park, I see another dog owner with her four-legged friend for the first time. Shortly after, however, I am again stopped by two uniformed officers on a side street and informed that walking dogs is prohibited here. But they let me continue without further hassle. Back at our accommodation, we go straight to bed after dinner. We have covered about 30 km throughout the day.

After breakfast on Monday morning, I check out of my accommodation a little early and start a conversation with François on my way out of the establishment. He is part of a small travel group that is heading south with two vans. I take advantage of the opportunity and ask for a ride. I can leave my stuff in one of the cars for now, and then I take a museum tour in the city with the dog. The sheep lung that I managed to get for Rango along the way does not meet with much enthusiasm - I am allowed to carry the offal with me throughout the day. After taking a closer look at the Dowlat Abad Garden from the inside (beautiful garden with a visible wind tower), it's time for a hot drink. Then we continue to the Fire Temple of Yazd, another testament to the Zoroastrian community in the area. Finally, a visit to the Water Museum, a tip from François and Patricia. Rango has to wait in the courtyard, and I can take my time to explore the history of Yazd's water supply. Back at the parking lot in front of the Silk Road Hotel, I chat with Patricia, François, Txell, and Koohjar, whom I am allowed to accompany on their way to the Persian Gulf. I ask the Silk Road Hotel for another night's stay and have a small dinner in the hotel garden with Patricia and François. The beef and bean stew is delicious. Then we take a short walk in the old town of Yazd before calling it a night.