"Musa ukulibala bahlobo, sihamba kunye" (Rose Auslander)

Isihloko sanamhlanje besijikeleza entlokweni yam okoko bendiqala ukuya eIndiya ngoDisemba ka-2018. Kwikhalenda yokufika, endiyinikwa ngumama minyaka le, kwakukho iibhukhmakhi zemagnethi ezimbini. Kwaye omnye wabo wayeneso sicatshulwa kuyo. Le iya kuba yingxelo yam yokugqibela ngexesha lam eIndiya kwaye ngandlela thile ndiyifumene ifanelekile. Iingcinga zam zazisoloko zinenye okanye enye, nokuba ngamanye amaxesha kuthatha ixesha elide ukuphendula imiyalezo kunye nee-imeyile. Ndiyazi kananjalo ukuba nikhe nacinga ngam, nazibuza ukuba ndinjani na, ndenza ntoni na, kwaye, ngaphezu kwako konke, ukuba ndibuyela nini eJamani. :-)

Ngoku ndibuyele apha, sele ziiveki ezine. Ixesha libaleka ngokukhawuleza njengaseIndiya. Andinabo "ubomi bemihla ngemihla" bokwenyani okwangoku. Kwaye ndiyavuya kuba ingqondo nentliziyo yam inexesha elithile lokucotha iinkumbulo, amava kunye nezinto endizifundileyo ngaphambi kokuba nditsalwe ndibuyele emsebenzini wemihla ngemihla, amadinga, imisebenzi yasekhaya njalo njalo. Kuba ndiyazi ukuba inokwenzeka ngokukhawuleza kangakanani into yokuba lonke utshintsho olunokwenzeka onokuthi ucebe ukulwenza kuhambo ngesiquphe lubonakala ludinwe kakhulu ukuba ungalukhawulelani. Kwaye apha, kwakhona, ihlabathi liye laqhubeka lijika, nto leyo andizange ndiyicinge kakhulu kumgama ongaka.

Kodwa ngoku ukuya kwiiveki zam zokugqibela eIndiya. Ngaxa lithile ekuqaleni konyaka ndacinga ukuba ndingathanda ukubona into eyahlukileyo kwinyanga yokugqibela yohambo lwam kune-Eco Village, ethe ngandlel’ ithile yaba yindawo yam yokuthuthuzela. Phofu ndandingenamdla wokuhambahamba ndijonge nantoni na. Kwelinye icala, ngoku ndandive iingxelo ezininzi ezinehlombe ezivela kwabanye abakhenkethi ngoMntla-mpuma weIndiya. Akuphelelanga apho, ndandikhe ndadibana nabantu abalungileyo ababesuka apho okanye abasahlala apho. Enkulu, indalo engachukunyiswanga kunye nezizwe ezisagcina amasiko azo emveli kwaye ngaloo ndlela zibonisa kancinci ukohluka okumangalisayo kweIndiya. Ukuba ujonga imaphu, indawo yaseIndiya ikhangeleka ngathi ayiyoyeyam ngokwenene. Emantla eBhutan, emazantsi eBangladesh nakwimpuma yoMzantsi-mpuma weAsia iqala ngeMyanmar. Kwaye iKolkata ikude kakhulu ngokwemigangatho yaseIndiya, ngoko ke isigqibo senziwe ngokukhawuleza: Ndiya kumntla-mpuma weIndiya ngo-Epreli. Xa uManjit wagqiba kwelokuba andikhaphe kwaye wakwazi ukucwangcisa yonke into ejikelezileyo, ndandonwabile-ngoko ndiye ndakwazi ukuthatha indawo encinci yentuthuzelo yam kunye nam. Inokuchazwa ngokufutshane, ngaphandle kokuphulwa kwamalungelo omntu, ukuba akubonakali konke kwaye akukho lula ukuba umkhokeli wezokhenketho athathe inyanga kwaye achithe imali kuhambo. Kwelinye icala, oku kunento yokwenza neemeko zokusebenza, ezidla ngokwahluka kakhulu kwezo zalapha eJamani. Kodwa kukwanento yokwenza noxanduva olubhekiselele kusapho, ngakumbi lwemeko yezemali. Kum, yayilobu buhlobo kunye noManjit ngokukodwa obuye bandikhokelela ekubeni ndibone ingcamango yokuthobeka, ngengqiqo ye-frugality, ngamehlo ahluke ngokupheleleyo, kodwa ngaphezu kwayo yonke into ukuba ndiyive. Ndingabhala okuninzi malunga noku ngoku, kwaye uninzi lwezimvo endizifumeneyo kwezi nyanga zimbalwa zidlulileyo zijikeleze. Kodwa ngoku ndingathanda ukukusa kwintlango esendle-mpuma yeIndiya.

Kulungile, ngoko nangoko, kuba ngaphambi kokuba siqale ndiye ndahlala iintsuku ezilishumi ezingacwangciswanga eKolkata. UManjit uye wafumana ingozi kwithuba elithile elidluleyo waza wonzakala emlenzeni, nobekuvela ukuba, khange anyangwe ngendlela. Uxilongo oluvela kugqirha, owathi emva koko wajonga ngokusondeleyo emlenzeni, wayesoyikeka ekuqaleni kwaye wenza ukuba kube nzima ukuhamba. Ngoko ndachitha ixesha lam eKolkata. Ekubeni ndisithanda kakhulu esi sixeko, sasingekho sibi kangako. Ngaphandle kobushushu. Kodwa ndakwazi ukutya indlela yam kuzo zonke izitali zesitrato ezinkulu kwakhona.

Mhhhh, isandwich eyojiweyo emnandi ezaliswe yimifuno emitsha

Kwibha yobisi kwakukho ilasi ehlaziyayo emva kwemini okanye ubisi olushushu noluswiti ngokuhlwa.

Lo ngumthengisi wam wee-chai. Unentloko ebuhlungu ngalamini, uyandixelela kamva. Kwaye uya e-Bihar ngeentsuku ezimbalwa ukutyelela usapho lwakhe. Uhlala apho isiqingatha sonyaka. Ngelixesha ubhuti wakhe uzofika athengise icayi apha. Bobabini babelana ngeshishini.

Lo ngumtshana we-chai-wallah. Akayi esikolweni, kodwa uncedisa ekuthengiseni iti yobisi enencasa. Iinyawo zakhe zifana nezo zexhego, zilusu lwesikhumba. Ukuba uye wabonwa ngubhuti wakhe ekuseni, bebesele begcwalise imagi enkulu ndingakhange ndithethe enye into. Xa ndandihleli ecaleni kweqonga endleleni ndibeke ikhadibhodi okanye iphephandaba phantsi kwam, bobabini babedla ngokuhlala ecaleni kwam. Kwaye ke sahlala apho, sithe cwaka, ngamanye amaxesha sithakazelelwa ngabantu abadlula ngendlela.

Intengiso yonyulo izotywe eludongeni apho. EIndiya, iqela ngalinye linophawu. Kukwakho nesizathu esibambekayo soku: abantu abaninzi abafundanga kwaye abakwazi ukufunda amagama eqela kwiphepha lokuvota. Emva koko baphawula uphawu lweqela abanqwenela ukulivotela.

Kwiintsuku ezilishumi kamva, ugqirha wamnika i-ok yokuba uManjit angahamba ngoku, ukuba nje ibhandeji litshintshwa rhoqo emva kweentsuku ezimbini. Sahamba ke. Ekugqibeleni uhamba ngololiwe kwakhona.

Indawo yokuqala yayiyiGuwahati kwilizwe lase-Assam. Kwakukho iqela labantu abavela e-Assam kwi-Eco Village ngeholide yeKrisimesi. Siye saqhagamshelana nomnye wabo, uKaushik, yaye ngokwenene wenza konke okusemandleni akhe ukuze ukuhlala kwethu kuMntla Mpuma kube mnandi kangangoko kunokwenzeka. Ukufika kwethu eGuwahati, umthendeleko woNyaka oMtsha wase-Assamese waseBihu wawukwincopho yawo. Ngoko sakwazi ukutyelela umsitho womdaniso ngorhatya.

Kwaye emva koko kwabakho esinye sezona zidlo zibalaseleyo kunye nezona zikhethekileyo zokutya endazifumana eIndiya. Umxube wezinto ezikhethekileyo ezivela kumazwe aseNagaland, Meghalaya naseAssam. Endaweni engaqhelekanga eIndiya, le yinyama yehagu elungiselelwe ubuncinci ngeendlela ezintlanu ezahlukeneyo.

Yandenza ndangakwazi ukuthetha ngendlela abantu abanomoya wokubuk’ iindwendwe abanokuba ngabo odibene naye ngokufutshane nje ebomini kuhambo. Kodwa oko kudla ngokuthathwa njengento eqhelekileyo eIndiya.

U-Kaushik usibonise isikhephe sakhe, yena kunye nabahlobo bakhe abathathu abasakhayo ngoku ukuze banikele ngeenqanawa zokuhamba ngenqanawa kwi-Brahmaputra kunyaka ozayo.

Ukusuka eGuwahati saqhubeka saya eKaziranga National Park. Umhlobo wabasebenzi be-Eco Village unendawo enezindlu zeendwendwe apha unyaka wonke. Kwakhona, samkelwa ngokufudumeleyo. Xa ndacela ukuhlawula u-Sunny, umxhasi kunye nomnini, indawo yokuhlala, ukutya kunye ne-safari, wala, wathi, "Abahlobo abavela kwi-Eco Village ngabahlobo bam nabo."

Xa iimvula zemvula ziqala kwiiveki ezimbalwa ezizayo, iBrahmaputra ekufutshane iya kugqabhuka iibhanki zayo kwaye ikhukulise yonke into. Izilwanyana ezininzi zasendle ezisuka kwindawo yepaki yesizwe elele emva kwepropati emva koko zifudukela komnye ummandla, zihlala zinqumla amasimi ajikeleze le propati ngokunjalo.

Apha emaphandleni, uMthendeleko weBihu ubhiyozelwa inyanga yonke, okanye ubuncinane nje ukuba abasebenzi abaqhelekileyo benokukwazi ukuncama umvuzo wabo. Baye bafika aba bafazi xa sizakuhamba siye eSafari badanisa bahamba nam.

Emva koko yanduluka ukuya kwipaki yesizwe.

Bendifuna ukubona imikhombe, isekhona nje iqaqobana eKaziranga. Kodwa kuqala usapho lweotter lwaqubha ngaphaya kwethu. Kwakhona kuhle, andizange ndibone ii-otters ngaphambili. Zikwafumaneka nakwiiSundabans kodwa azifane zibonwe. Babebaninzi abantu apha, abathe badibana ngesidlo sasemini kunye ngaxeshanye.

Umntu makabe ejongile ukuba akukho nto iseleyo na kwintlanzi enkulu.

Akukabikho mikhombe okwangoku, kodwa inyathi enkulu yasemanzini eyabelana ngengca entsha yamadlelo aluhlaza kunye namaxhama. Kukho neehagu zasendle apha.

Kwaye ke, ngokujikeleza igophe elilandelayo, ngequbuliso sibe nethamsanqa. Imizekelo emibini emikhulu ihamba ngaphesheya kwethafa ukuya ngasekunene kwendlela yethu.

Kukhenketho olongezelelekileyo sibona imikhombe emininzi emgama de sothuse le mazi xa ihlamba endleleni ebuyayo.

Endleleni ebuyela kwifama encinci ye-Sunny, emalunga nemizuzu emihlanu kuphela ukusuka ekungeneni kwepaki, abanye abantwana abambalwa badanisela uMnyhadala weBihu.

Umalusi waseJamani uSundari (oguqulelwe ngokuthi "ubuhle") sele elinde ngokulangazelela ukubuya kwethu.

Hayi indlela esinokubukeka ngayo isinambuzane...

Kwaye indlela izikhwenene eziluhlaza ezigqunywe kakuhle ngayo kwintsimi yombona...

Emva kobusuku obuthathu eSol Village, njengoko u-Sunny eyibiza le ndawo, uhambo luqhubeka ngebhasi ukuya eJorhat ukukhwela isikhitshane ukuya eMajuli ukusuka apho. Kusenokwenzeka ukuba esi siqithi sakha saba sesinye sezona ziqithi zikhulu zemilambo ehlabathini. Nangona kunjalo, kwiminyaka eli-100 edlulileyo liye lehla ukusuka kwi-1000sqm ukuya malunga ne-400sqm ngenxa yokhukuliseko.Izazinzulu zithi inokuba iphelile kwiminyaka engama-20. Yaziwa kakhulu ngabahlali bayo, uninzi lwabo bengabakwaMishing, esona sizwe sikhulu kuMntla-mpuma weIndiya. Izindlu zabo zakhiwe phezu kwamanqwanqwa, kungenjalo ngemvula ziya kukhukuliswa ngamanzi. Ngaphantsi kwezi kudla ngokubakho oomatshini abakhulu abalukela kuzo iisareyi ezintle namanye amalaphu.

Ubume besiqithi buhle. Iiorchids zasendle zikhula emithini kuyo yonke indawo.

Ukujonga kula masimi erayisi, ndakhunjuzwa kakhulu ukuhambahamba eKabodia naseLaos.

Ukhenketho lwebhayisekile ukunqumla isiqithi esithe tyaba lwalucwangciselwe usuku olunye eMajuli. Umsebenzisi wendawo yokulala uzobe imephu ngokwakhe kwaye ufake zonke izinto ezibalulekileyo onokuthi uzibone ngexesha lotyelelo apha.

Sikwazile ukufikelela ezibini zizonke. Imephu engenasikali kunye nemileage ayicacanga. Sathi sifika kwibhulorho yokuqala eyayithe masiwele kuyo imaphu, kwakusele kusondele emini emaqanda. Ibimnandi into yokuba besele siyityile isidlo sakusasa naba bafana babini bebahle notata wabo endleleni.

Emva kwento eyayingathi lixesha elingenammiselo, ekugqibeleni sayifumana ibhulorho eyayiza kusikhokelela kwenye into ekhethekileyo yaseMajuli, idolophana yeengqayi. Kunye nokuluka, izinto ezenziwe ngodongwe ngomnye wemisebenzi yezandla eyayisenziwa ngabafazi ababhinqileyo.

Ngexesha nje elifutshane, apha kwenziwa ivazi, ethi ke itshiswe kwiikontini ezinkulu.

Emva koko ndaya kumzi woonongendi wamaHindu, iSatra. UMajuli naye waziwa ngabo. Uninzi lweemonki kuye kwafuneka ukuba zifudukele kumhlaba omkhulu ngenxa yendawo ehlala icutheka. Iimonki zezi zindlu zoonongendi zinqula ngokukhethekileyo uthixo uVishnu. Kwaye kwenye yeemonki, iimaski zemveli zenziwa ngesandla. Bendifuna ukuyibona lonto.

Ndivele ndakwazi ukufowunela abazali bam ngexesha ebesivumelene ngalo, phofu bekungecawa yepasika.

Kwaye ke kwafuneka sibuyele ngokukhawuleza. Sayijonga kakubi imigama kwaye emva kokutshona kwelanga ndandingafuni ukukhwela ibhayisekile ebhityileyo engenazibane kwiindlela ezimbi, ezingakhanyiswanga.

Ndikuqhelile ukukhwela ibhayisekile ixesha elide kwaye bendinomdla kakhulu kukhenketho olude, ngelixa uManjit wayekwicala lokuphelelwa lithemba. Kodwa akukho lori yamisayo ukusibuyisela kwindawo esasihlala kuyo kunye neebhayisekile zethu.

Bekungayi kubakho ndawo ingako.

Ngethamsanqa sasifike kwindawo esasisiya kuyo kamsinya nje emva kokutshona kwelanga yaye sakwazi ukukhwela isikhephe sibuyela kumhlaba omkhulu ngentsasa elandelayo.

Indawo elandelayo yayiyidolophu encinane yaseMariani, malunga neeyure ezintathu kuphela xa uhamba ngebhasi usuka eMajuli. Le kuphela kwendawo kuyo yonke iIndiya apho unokubona khona iigibhoni. Inani elikhulu leentsapho zegibbon zihlala kwihlathi elincinci. Ipropati encinci, elawulwa lusapho ikufuphi ngqo nomyezo wendalo.

Ngoko ke sinokunduluka kwangentseni ngentsasa elandelayo ngethemba lokubona ezinye zeenkawu ezixhobileyo, ezinjengabantu.

Ekubeni akukho neenkawu kuphela kweli hlathi, kodwa kunye nezinye izilwanyana, ziqala kuphela ngokukhapha okuxhobileyo kunye nesikhokelo.

Ndiqaphela ukuba apha kumntla-mpuma abakhenkethi abaninzi basentshona njengakwezinye iindawo eIndiya. Akukho mntu uthetha isiNgesi. Isinyanzelo somrhumo wokungena ngokuphindwe kalishumi kubakhenkethi abavela kwamanye amazwe nawo uyafuneka apha. Nangona kunjalo, kwakufanelekile. Emva kokuhambahamba ngokuzolileyo ehlathini emva koko nakumgaqo kaloliwe, sifumana iinkawu zokuqala. Akukho gibhoni okwangoku, kodwa i-langurs entle.

Emva koko ngequbuliso isikhokelo sisinika umqondiso, siva iiGibhoni. Basekude, kodwa kuyabonakala ukuba yena kunye nompu banombono wokuba bangazifumana phi iinkawu ezibetha umlozi. Ngoko masibaleke. Embindini wehlathi elishinyeneyo, kancinci kancinci nangaphezulu. Impempe iya ikhwaza, emva koko izolile kwakhona, sitshintsha indlela kwakhona. Kwaye ngokukhawuleza awuva nto ngaphandle kweengoma ezingaqhelekanga zeegibhoni. Ndifumana ama-goosebumps ngenxa yobunzulu bengxolo. Ndiye ndajonga phezulu ndabona ifamily yegibbon. Isibini esinenkwenkwe. Ezi zidalwa zintathu zenza ingxolo enje- ndichukumisekile, andizikhathaleli iileeches ezizama ukudlula kwizihlangu zam kunye neekawusi ezinyaweni zam.

Kwaye ke esi sigcawu sikhulu ngokumangalisayo, ewebhu ndaphantse ndangena kuyo.

Xa ndibuya kuhambo lwam olunika umdla, uManjit akaphilanga. Ukwenzakala, amayeza ebewathatha kangangeeveki kunye neentsuku ezisebenza nzima kumele ukuba zamthwalise nzima. Ke sithatha isigqibo sokuhlala nje ezinye iintsuku ezimbalwa kwiHlathi laseGibbon ukuze sibone ukuba singaqhubeka na nokhenketho njengoko bekucwangcisiwe.

Ngethamsanqa izinto ziba ngcono ngokukhawuleza kwaye sinokushiya i-Assam ukuya kurhulumente ngegama elithi Nagaland, elivakala lingaqondakali kum. Inxalenye yokuqala yendlela ngololiwe eya eDimapur yenziwa ngokukhawuleza. Kwi-75km elandelayo ukuya eKohima kufuneka ukhwele iteksi. Kuthatha iiyure ezine ukufika kwindawo ngenxa yeendlela ezimbi.

Yayiyenye yezona zinto zinzima zokuqhuba ebomini bam kwaye umbono wawungemhle kakhulu de safika. Ukusuka eKohima kwafuneka siqhube enye iyure ngeSUV exinene kakhulu ukuya kwidolophana encinane esentabeni. Apha uKaushik wayesilungiselele indawo yokuhlala ukuze sithabathe uhambo lokuhamba uhambo oluya kwiNtlambo yaseDzükou ekufuphi ngentsasa elandelayo. Ilali, izindlu nabahlali babendichukumisa. Ama-90 ekhulwini kubo angabemi bomthonyama abangamaNaga, ababefudula bezizingela.

Indawo efanelekileyo yokuhlamba kusasa kwaye uhlambe amazinyo akho.

Ngendihlala ekhitshini iiyure kwaye bendiya kuhlala ndifumene iinkcukacha ezintsha.

Nantsi ihlanjiwe. Akukho manzi abalekayo.

Kodwa sasifuna ukuhamba intaba. Sahamba ke emva kwesidlo sakusasa. Okokuqala kwafuneka siqhube kwakhona kwindawo yokuqala esemthethweni yendlela eya kwiNtlambo yaseDzükou. Ngoko yaba yiyure enesiqingatha enye indlela enqumla ehlathini. Ukuze ufike kwintlambo, ephantse ibe yi-2500 yeemitha ukuphakama, kufuneka uqale unqobe umahluko kwiimitha ezili-1000 kwaye wenze ukunyuka okukhulu.

Xa sele iphezulu, yonke into iqale igqunywe yinkungu, ethi icocwe kancinci kancinci.

Kwaye umbono omangalisayo.

Sandula ke sahamba kulo mhlaba phantse iiyure ezintathu de saya kufika kwindawo ekuphela kwayo yokuhlala elapho. Yinto entle ukuba sifake ukutya. Ukupheka kwimozulu enomoya kuthatha ixesha elide kodwa ngandlela-thile kumnandi. Kwaye ekubeni abaqhubi bendawo yokuhlala kufuneka bafake yonke into apha ngeenyawo, amaxabiso aphindwe kabini njengesiqhelo.

Sasingafane sidibane nomntu endleleni. Ngalo lonke elixesha ndandinombono wokuba akukho mntu ngaphandle kwethu. Noko ke, ndandiphazama kakhulu. Ukufika kwethu, enye yezindlu zokulala ezimbini yayisele igcwele, njengoko zazisele zigcwele iintente ezinikelwayo. Kwaye emva kwethu, abantu abangakumbi nangakumbi beza, ngakumbi amaIndiya aselula, kwaye igumbi lokulala lesibini lazala ngokukhawuleza laza langxola. Iingoma ezahlukeneyo zaphuma kwisandisi-lizwi esincinci esincinci ngaxeshanye kwaye abafana abathathu bacinga ukuba kupholile kakhulu ukudlala imidlalo yabo yokudubula kwiiselfowuni zabo ngaphandle kwee-headphones. Kwakunzima kum ukuqonda ukuba kutheni ungafika kwindawo enkulu kangaka, ebukekayo uze wenze ingxolo. Kodwa yayindim ndedwa umkhenkethi wasemzini yaye loo nto ayizange ikhathaze mntu ngaphandle kwam. Ndikhe ndadibana neemeko ezifanayo kwi-Eco Village. Kukho abantu abaninzi eIndiya abangakwaziyo ukuma bathule kakuhle, noko ngamava am lawo. Akukho ndawo zininzi apho kuthe cwaka. Mhlawumbi yiloo nto ingaqhelekanga kubantu abaninzi bade baphoswe yingxolo yeemoto ezikhatshwayo. Ngoku kwakufuneka ndilale nabantu abamalunga nama-30. Kwakubanda kakhulu phandle emva kokutshona kwelanga, ngo-6 p.m., yaye ndandingekaxhotyi ngokwaneleyo ukuze ndikwazi. Indawo yokulala nayo yayingenazo iibhedi, kodwa wawunokuboleka into oyifunayo ngentlawulo. I mat yokulala ebhityileyo nengubo ezimbini kum. Kwakungasekho mqamelo. Andifuni kuncwina kwakhona kwaye uhambo oluhle lwenzelwe into eninzi, kodwa ubusuku apho bebubuhlungu kum. Kwaye ngengomso yaba ndim owancamayo. Kwafuneka ndisokole ukuhla entabeni, onke amathambo, zonke izihlunu zazibuhlungu. Hayi indlela endavuya ngayo ngenqwelo-mafutha eyayisilinde ezantsi ukuba isise eKohima. Ndandifuna ubusuku ukuze ndichache. Yaye ekubeni lalingekho itikiti lokuya kuhambo lwethu, ndafumana ubusuku besibini. Ngelishwa, ibhedi ehotele yayiphantse yaqina njengomgangatho kwindawo yokulala, kodwa yayifudumele kwaye izolile.

Ndingathanda ukubona ngaphezulu kweNagaland kwaye ngokuqinisekileyo ayizukuba luhambo lwam lokugqibela ukuya apho. Kodwa bekukho enye injongo ngaphambi kokuba sifune ukubuyela eKolkata. Imeko yaseMeghalaya kwaye ngakumbi indawo iCherapunji eyanditsalayo njengomlingo, nangona kuthiwa yeyona ndawo inamanzi emhlabeni kwaye imvula ayiyona imozulu endiyithandayo. Kodwa ndandinomdla kakhulu kwiintaba, ihlathi kunye neebhulorho ezikhethekileyo ezikhoyo apho. Kodwa kuqala, sasilindelwe luhambo lweeyure ezili-14. Ngethamsanqa ndiye ndambona ugqirha ngezolo ndaziva ndingcono kancinci emva kokutofa impundu kunye namayeza athile. Kodwa nam bendingenolala apha emotweni.

ICherrapunji ikwiiNtaba zeKhasi kufuphi nomda waseBangladesh. Sifike sele kurhatyele imvula ibigalela ngentsasa elandelayo ibingabonakali kakuhle. UBen osuka eFransi wayekunye nathi kwindawo yokuhlala yaye sasifuna ukuhamba kunye ukuya kwidolophana yaseNongriat esezintabeni, eyaziwa ngokuba nebhulorho enemigangatho emibini eyenziwe ngeengcambu zemithi ephilayo. Amalungu esizwe samaKhasi akhe ezi bhulorho kwiindawo ezininzi zaseMegalaya. Kuthatha malunga neminyaka eyi-15 ukuba ibhulorho yomelele ngokwaneleyo ukuba ingahamba kuyo. Ezinye zezi bhulorho zineminyaka engaphezu kwama-200 zikho. Ukuze ufike eNongriat kufuneka uqale uqhube imoto kwakhona. Umhlaba othe tyaba onokubonwa apho sele ungowaseBangladesh.

Saba nethamsanqa kuba bekune imvula emandla imini yonke. Umqhubi weteksi usixelela ukuba iingxangxasi azizange zibonwe kwiintsuku ezimbini ezidlulileyo.

Ngethamsanqa, sathi sakufika kwindawo esasiqala kuyo ukhenketho lwethu lokunyuka intaba, kwakungekho mvula, kodwa ukufuma kwakuphakame kakhulu. Emva koko sasilindelwe yindledlana yeekhilomitha ezintathu ubude. Ekuqaleni kwakusehla kuphela, kodwa kamva nako kunyuka umnqantsa kwakhona. Kodwa indlela ibintle ngeyona ndlela kwaye indenze ndilibale ngawo wonke umzamo.

Safika eNongriat, sasilindelwe yindawo entle yokuhlala, iqhutywa nguBryon nentsapho yakhe. Kuya kuba njani ukuhlala kwindawo enje? Phantse wonke umntu olapha wayenoncumo ebusweni bakhe. Yaye nangona sasivakalelwa kukuba sisekupheleni kwehlabathi, phantse wonk’ ubani olapha wayethetha isiNgesi. AmaKhasi angabantu abakhethekileyo eIndiya. Emva komtshato, amadoda aya kuhlala nentsapho yomfazi, abantwana babizwa ngegama lomfazi, yaye ilifa lentsapho lisiwa kweyona ntombi incinane.

Eli hlathi lasentsomini nabanye abahlali balo elf-like ibe yenye yeendawo endizithandayo eIndiya emva kosuku nje olunye.

Emva kweentsuku ezimbini zokunyuka izinyuko ngokungadinwa, ndiphawula ukuba umzimba wam uya uba buthathaka kwakhona. Ndigcwele amandla ngexesha lokuhamba, kodwa xa ndivuka ngentsasa yesibini, yonke into ibuhlungu, amehlo am abomvu kwaye adumbile, kwaye ndinentlungu yokuhlatywa ecaleni kwam kwakhona eyandisa kugqirha eNagaland. Ngoko ke ndiphumla kwakhona usuku. Emva koko sikhwela umva qho ngezinyuko ezingama-3000. Siqhubela eShilong kwaye ukusuka apho emva kobunye ubusuku sibuyele eGuwahati. Amazantsi eenduli zenkanyamba eyayifudula idlakaza kunxweme olusempuma yeIndiya iyatshayela apho. Kuyavuthuza kwaye kunetha ngamandla kwaye isixeko sonke asinambane. Sinokudibana nomhlobo wethu uKaushik kade kwaye ngokufutshane nje ukuba sithi ndlela-ntle. Iiveki ezintathu e-Assam, eNagaland naseMegalaya zazimnandi-kwakulungile ukwazi indawo eyahluke ngokupheleleyo yaseIndiya. Ngokuqinisekileyo ixesha lalifutshane kakhulu kwaye ndaqonda kwakhona ukuba ukuhamba ngokukhawuleza ukusuka kwenye indawo ukuya kwenye akukona kum. Emva kwesiqingatha sokuqala sohambo, ngenene ndandisoloko ndikhutshiwe kwaye oko kwakubonakaliswa ngokucacileyo kwimeko yam. Ukongezelela, ndandikhe ndikhumbule ekhaya ngamanye amaxesha, nto leyo eyayingenjalo kwiinyanga ezingaphambili. Kodwa ndaqonda ukuba mhlawumbi lixesha lokuba ndithi ndlela-ntle eIndiya nabo bonke abantu abakhulu endidibene nabo. Ndinqwenela ukuba andizange ndichithe iintsuku ezintathu zokugqibela ebhedini ndigula xa ndifuna ukonwabela iKolkata kwaye ndithenge izinto ezikhumbuzayo, kodwa oko akuzange kuncedeke. Ngokuqinisekileyo yayingekokugqibela kwam ukuhlala eIndiya. Kodwa ngoku iJamani indilindile nabanye abantu abathandekayo.

Ndiye ndafunda ukuba zimbalwa IZINTO endizifunayo ukuze ndaneliseke kwaye ndonwabe. Kodwa ndiye ndafunda noko ndisweleyo ngamanye amaxesha ukuze ndaneliseke ndize ndonwabe—kodwa ezi asizozinto eziphathekayo.

Bahlobo abathandekayo, enkosi ngokundikhapha kancinci kuhambo lwam ngelixa ndifunda. Ndonwabile ngayo nayiphi na impendulo kwiingxelo zam. Kum buqu ibiyindlela entle yokuqhubela phambili oko ndinamava. Yaye ukuba abanye abantu banomdla kuyo, ndonwaba ngakumbi.

Mhlawumbi kude kube kwixesha elizayo. Ngamanye amaxesha.

AHOY.