ተሓቲሙ: 20.10.2023
May we introduce ourselves?
Karen and Werner, passionate cyclists, now grandparents. When we're not traveling, we live near Wismar, near the Baltic Sea. We are no longer young, but we are fit for the next cycling trip. Our first “sabbatical in the saddle” started in the summer of 2016. Through Germany, Netherlands, Belgium, France, Canada, USA, Portugal, Spain. In the USA we cycled the entire Route 66. Twelve months and almost 17,000 km in the bike saddle. What a great experience!
Now we are preparing our “sabbatical in the saddle” number two. Where do we want or can we cycle? Our destination was east. Not a good idea at the moment. But there is still our dream country, Mexico. In 2016 we stood at the border, saw the lights of Tijuana. Because of unrest after the presidential election, we decided against crossing the border. Will we be granted Mexico this time?
900 km through Germany
The calendar shows August 20, 2022. I excitedly run my finger over the lines on our worn packing list. Yes, everything included. Also two new chargers, forum loader and harvester, which provide energy with every turn of the crank. We can breathe a sigh of relief. And finally hang our well-filled bicycle bags on the bikes. Our neighbors are taking care of our apartment for the second time for many months, including watering flowers. They also feel responsible for the photo before the start. Thank you Monika and Hans-Peter, you are the best neighbors in the world. We can pedal with peace of mind. That makes us incredibly happy.
After three hours and 33 km we are already at our first destination of the day, a forest near Ventschow. Our tent is in a clearing, with a small forest lake in sight. The joy of this idyllic place doesn't last long. Music becomes louder and louder from a nearby disco. Bass booms across the lake. See you at four in the morning. We're awake for a long time. Many questions run through our minds. Why did we actually only set off at the end of August, and why only a very modest 33 km on the first day? Is it even right that we are now in the saddle? But from the beginning.
At the end of May I, Karen, cycled to my father in Wittstock/Dosse. At least that's what I intended. After two nights in a tent, I reached the Müritz. I was pleased with the forum charger, which reliably supplied energy for the navigation system. I was happy about the tailwind, which made it easy to move forward with a lot of luggage. I was happy to meet other cyclists. I was amazed at the tree that blocked the bike path between Sembzin and Sietow-Dorf. I carried my panniers over the obstacle. I carried my bike over the tree, stepped into a hole, fell and heard a crack. The mirror on my bike broke and I broke my left ankle. And I was no longer happy. Also a dull pain in the right foot. Ingo from Hanover had just offered to carry my bike over the tree. Why did I really want to do it myself? I don't know it. All I knew was at least one foot was broken. The ambulance came back along the forest path. The emergency doctor gave me anesthesia on the spot and fixed my broken left foot. The Röbel police took away my bags and the bike. The helpful Ingo and the many other cyclists who have since been stopped by the ambulance assured me that they would guard my belongings until the police got there. I woke up in the ambulance shortly before the Plau accident clinic. My left foot was operated on, but luckily the right one was only bruised. I'm so happy that the forest rescue went so well. I had to trust strangers with my equipment. And my health to the doctors. I've been on a bike trip alone for a long time several times. In England, France, Belgium, Netherlands, Germany. The people everywhere were friendly, interested and helpful. Better than portrayed in the media. Precisely because I have these experiences, I didn't worry about my equipment. I trusted the other cyclists and was not disappointed. Werner picked up everything intact from the Röbel police.
As we lie in the tent in the forest, the accident was almost three months ago. After the operation, I was only able to move around in a wheelchair and with crutches for six weeks. Patience is not my strength, nor is sitting on the couch. I persevered. Finally the foot was x-rayed and found to be fine and Grandma Karen learned to walk again. Thanks to the excellent physiotherapy, who showed me helpful exercises, I was walking without crutches after four weeks. And I was able to cycle again. However, it is still questionable whether my foot can cope with the constant strain. Our trip is initially a test tour. If I get pain or my foot swells, we will take the train back and travel another way. We are setting Bremen as our first goal. If I can cycle well by then, the broken foot should no longer stand in the way of our cycle trip. On the second day I managed 59 km without any problems. And there were a few hills too. At Parchim we visit Uschi, with whom I spent a few days in the accident clinic. We can camp on their property. Everything bad has something good. Without the accident we would never have met Uschi and her husband. We continue on to my father in Wittstock, who waited in vain for me at the end of May. We spend a day with him and say goodbye for a year. Father is almost 90 and doing well. But the thought of whether we will see each other again cannot be scared away. At home we said goodbye to our daughter, our son-in-law, our little granddaughter and many friends. Little Jette, just three years old, hugged us particularly tightly on the last evening. Although she still can't understand that Grandma Karen and Grandpa Werner will be away longer. Always these goodbyes...
So far we have had ideal weather. But a cloudburst falls in Wittstock. Our salvation is a gas station. We are allowed to stay inside for almost an hour. It's just drizzling, so we continue in rain gear. We escape into bus stops twice, then the sun shines again. We cycle to the Havel and Elbe. 50 to 60 km is no problem for me. On the Elbe the wind is blowing from the front, violent gusts almost knock us off our bikes. Our bike bags are like sails when there is a tailwind, but now they are like brake blocks. And this is exactly where I realize for the first time that I had to spend six weeks on the couch. My thighs are shaking. The next campsite is far and there is no hidden place in nature to be found. I fight my way to Dömitz. That was the second day with a headwind, and today after 77 km I'm just exhausted. Luckily, cyclists are also welcome at the water hiking center. A nice campsite. We're staying two nights, I need a day off. My foot hardly complains, but there is this sore muscle in my thighs. I waddle like a duck.
We cross the Elbe bridge in Dömitz, most ferries are out of service due to low water. The rest day was just right. I crank and crank and don't even think about the broken foot anymore. The sore muscles have also disappeared. Behind Dannenberg there are more and more long gradients. They don't bother me. I'm sure my muscles remember what they've already accomplished. Things are getting better every day. We find a small campsite near Lüneburg. In Buchholz in the Nordheide we can set up our tent in an overgrown garden. We found the friendly host at 1nite-tent. The whole family visits us one by one. Through 1nite-tent, private individuals offer campsites without payment. Mostly without water or shower, but completely sufficient. Our salvation when there are no campsites. We offer our guest room for free via Warmshowers (similar to Couchsurfing, but only for touring cyclists). Since we live close to the Baltic Sea Cycle Path, we often had interesting cyclists visit us. From Japan and Australia for example. How lucky that this free give and take exists. Shortly before Bremen, in Grasberg, we can camp with Heiko via 1nite-tent. A crazy guy, he explores the world on a motorcycle. We have a lot to tell each other. Heiko is active in the fire department. In the evenings, a youth fire brigade exercise takes place on his property. Disco fog simulates smoke. Several fire engines quickly arrive. In full gear, the young people search for and extinguish the source of the fire. Where can you see such action up close?
In the middle of Bremen. Our speedometer shows 630 km. What does the foot say about that? The exercise is good, he wants more of it. And that's exactly why we go to the ADAC travel agency and take out international health insurance. We both have a good feeling. We lie in each other's arms and start our tour every morning with "Let's cycle". Just like on our first sabbatical.
We find a campsite behind Bremen. It is clear that there is a fee per person and for tents. Also for the washing machine and dryer, which we urgently need. But here you even pay for the bike. We are experiencing this for the first time. The next evening we are with Anja and Jens in Edewecht. This year we are their first 1nite-tent guests. The two also like to travel. Your son often uses 1nite-tent during his trekking tours. Of course the parents had to offer their meadow for camping.
We were often spoken to. In front of the supermarket, at campsites or when we were sitting on a bench somewhere. Where and where to, very typical questions. On this trip there was a lot of discussion about the political situation. And as always, our bikes were viewed critically: Where are the motor and battery? Not to be found. We cycle with muscle power. And sometimes we feel like a dying species.
It's not far to Emsland. Werner's mother lives there. We also part from her with the feeling that we may be seeing her for the last time. Everything has it's price. Anyone who travels a lot often has to say goodbye. It is often difficult to walk, even when traveling. You meet nice and helpful people. I would like to enjoy her presence longer. And ask yourself: Will we see each other again sometime?
We cycle south along the Ems. Finding a campsite is difficult. There is no place to be found in the forest, only bushes and bridle paths. There is a sign at Geester See: RV parking area, campsite. Only the campsite doesn't exist. After an unsuccessful search and shortly before dark, we simply put our tent on the motorhome parking space. And disappear again very early in the morning. A decision has to be made. We don't hesitate for long. We take the shortest route to where the cycle path is called Fietspad. After a good 900 km and 19 days in the bike saddle, the Netherlands warmly welcomes us. With three campsites just across the border.