Samoa (Upolu), the East

The day of waterfalls! In the morning, we head east on the Main South Coast Road. It sounds very important, but it's actually quite amusing. It's the only road along the south coast that can be driven without 4-wheel drive. Everything else is a dirt road and has turned into a landscape of ruts and craters due to tropical rain. We will feel the effects of this two days later, but more on that later.

The first stop at the Togitogiga Waterfall is really great because you can take a cool dip in the natural pool below the waterfall! A small, bumpy trail leads through the tropical rainforest. If you didn't have to pay so much attention to the "paved" path made of lava stones, you could enjoy the beautiful orchids and colorful shrubs even more 😊.

When we return to the parking lot, we donate the usual amount to the young man who oversees the small park (here you pay for everything, only small amounts, and there is no change given. This way, the local population benefits directly from the slowly growing tourism). We chat a little, he tells us a lot about the way of life in Samoa, and we take him with us to the nearby kiosk to get some cool water.

We continue inland to the Sopoaga Waterfall. There, we are immediately greeted by a six-year-old girl who is supposed to collect the usual 6 Tala entrance fee. She is hesitant to say what she wants, but luckily there is a sign at the entrance to the park where the waterfall is located. She gets 20 Tala, unfortunately we didn't receive any small bills from the ATM at the airport. The waterfall is gigantic, the water plunges 100 meters into a valley with steep slopes completely covered with rainforest. The park created by the family is a small educational trail about the local plant life.

By the way, in Samoa, as well as in Fiji, the land belongs almost 100% to the residents. The government owns very little land. That's why you should always ask first when you want to visit or enter a beach, river, or waterfall. It may seem strange to us at first, but if you know the background...

Meanwhile, the little girl actually gives us 10 Tala back!

Our next destination is the Fuipisia Waterfall on the edge of the O Le Pupu Pue National Park. The usual procedure at the parking lot: entrance fee and directions.

We walk through the lush greenery, mosquitoes buzzing, it is hot. The ground feels like a fully soaked sponge. We cross a stream and the path becomes wetter and wetter. Then we sink up to our ankles in the brown-red jungle mud that pulls at our water-filled trekking sandals as if it wants to keep them. Finally, we reach a plateau, cleared of the jungle and nicely planted as usual, and enjoy the view of the approximately 50-meter-high waterfall flowing into a small river. On the way back, we try to wash the mud from our feet and sandals by the stream, with moderate success. The mud sticks like crazy!

Anyway, we continue to the Le Mafa Pass, where you have a great view of the mountains and the north coast from the highest point. Then we turn around because the second part of this road requires 4-wheel drive, and we drive down to the coast.

There, we stop at a small resort where we treat ourselves to fish & chips. The fish is great, the chips... well, not so much. But the ice-cold smoothie is a delight! We drive back home via the Cross Island Road, splash around in the pool a bit, and I treat myself to lobster with curry, delicious! Afterwards, we sit on the "sea terrace" with a glass of cold white wine, sometimes it can be so simply beautiful!