La daabacay: 30.05.2017
DELHI
After a short three-week, very intense stop at home, we continued our journey to India. The first stop was Delhi - to acclimatize on the one hand, but also to get a feel for this completely different world. At this time of year, it is around 40 degrees Celsius here.
Surprisingly, it did not affect us as much as expected. At first glance, the city of 20 million people is incredibly dirty and loud due to constant honking and extreme traffic chaos, with cyclists, bicycle rickshaws, tuk-tuks, and cars seemingly fighting for space without any regard for losses.
Crossing a street is a real challenge for a European. Apart from the unfamiliar left-hand traffic, there seem to be no usual traffic rules here, except: 'The cheekier one wins.' It is better not to assume that someone will brake for you. However, passionate honking, stepping on the gas, and extremely flexible use of the lanes are common.
Both of us are of course easily recognizable as tourists, and therefore numerous helpers are quickly available who only want the best for us. Of course, we are not completely inexperienced in this regard and know how to politely convey that there is generally no need.
The countless bicycle rickshaw drivers and tuk-tuk drivers gladly offer their services as personal tour guides. On the first day, we visited Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India, with a young driver - very impressive and a quiet refuge from the intense heat for many Muslims.
Of course, you have to adjust before entering the mosque
Afterwards, he showed us the spice market, where highly intense and peppery scents fill the air, causing both of us to sneeze and cough.
Later, we explored the nearby Kinari Market, which mainly offers festive clothing for women, beautiful saris, and jewelry.
It is difficult to describe the colorful and wild hustle and bustle in the markets. Although almost only narrow lanes wind through the bazaars, it is teeming with bicycle rickshaws, mopeds, and delicate men carrying heavy sacks on their backs or pulling small carts loaded with often several hundred kilos of weight.
Various scents of incense, spices, food offered on the street, but also excrement, both human and animal, such as cow dung, mix from all sides. Cows, considered sacred in India and also like to stroll on busy streets, are apparently used to being fed by passers-by or market traders. Peter was poked quite firmly by a disappointed cow after she didn't get anything to eat from him.
That was the annoyed cow - just before that 😊
Poverty is simply everywhere here in a dramatic way. Old, sick, children - mostly completely undernourished people live on the streets. If children beg on the edge of the highway - completely on their own and without the possibility of ever attending school - it is simply incredibly sad and difficult for us to accept that this is the reality for millions. According to our driver, breaking through the system is not so easy due to massive corruption at all levels. According to his assessment, it is best to simply give away food because money will either be taken from them immediately or used for drugs. However, the problem is certainly much more complex to fully understand all its facets.
Even people who at least have a job as a bicycle rickshaw or tuk-tuk driver can be seen struggling with the hard, deprived life. Everyone is trying to survive in some way, so it can be understood that there is sometimes trickery, where tourists are put in situations as a result of deliberately false information and are then 'helped,' while at the same time generating business and commissions.
Given the circumstances, it is quite arrogant and one-sided to categorically condemn the traffickers and scammers from my point of view. From our privileged position, we can- I think- not even begin to understand what it might mean to live in such bleak and sometimes hopeless conditions. We have met many very interesting and charming people. I have the utmost respect for anyone who, despite all the adversity, finds the strength day after day to make the best of what is possible.
Law firm relocated to the street
Delhi offers much more sights than can be comfortably visited in a few days. So we also visited the largest Hindu temple in the world, the Akshardham Temple. This very young temple was built in 2005 according to ancient Indian architectural tradition and is made of red sandstone and white marble. The 20,000 sculptures were created by countless artists and volunteers. The entire sprawling temple complex houses various interesting exhibitions and a quite good restaurant area. Unfortunately, photography is not allowed there.
A main attraction in Delhi is the famous Red Fort dating back to the heyday of the Mughals.
Since Peter had been there years ago and also had no desire for a repeat visit, I explored it alone. Although that's not entirely true, because shortly after I entered the fort, I was repeatedly asked for selfies, both by women and men. At first, this surprised and puzzled me, but since I didn't want to turn anyone down, I did not make much progress. Admittedly, it also felt flattering to be treated like a famous Hollywood star. However, such attention does not require any acting skills or special attractiveness, as blonde hair and fair skin seem to be sufficient. Eventually, I ignored some 'hellos' to make some progress and get to the actual part of my visit.
We have seen a lot, but what I particularly liked was the National Gandhi Museum, which impressively portrays the life and work of Mahatma Gandhi.
Another beautiful temple is the Bahai or Lotus Temple. The main principles of the Baha'i faith include the eradication of prejudices and comprehensive peace, a creed that we can only agree with.
Our next destination is Jaipur in Rajasthan. We will reach it with our driver Johnny, a likeable young Indian.