Pilgrimage in Norway - Gudbrandsdalsleden

The Great Packing

I am setting off for an adventure with a backpack and hiking boots for the first time. The plan is to walk for 30 days from Oslo to Trondheim along the pilgrimage trail (Gudbrandsdalsleden). According to the pilgrim information, it is 643 km in a northern direction. I want to do this journey alone. First, I have to pack my backpack.

I pack the tent, sleeping mat, and sleeping bag, then the camping stove and the gas. The backpack already feels full, and I don't have any clothes, water, or drinks yet. But everything fits in, and you don't really need much.

The Adventure Begins

On June 27th, my hike starts with a train and bus ride to the starting point, St. Hallvard's Cathedral in Oslo.

The first stage goes completely through Oslo, and I quickly realize how exhausting it is to walk on asphalt all day. The pilgrimage trail splits 800 meters after the starting point into an east and west route. I take the west route because it is said to be more beautiful.

After 24 km, I arrive at a shelter and spend the night there with a view of the ski jump Holmenkollen.

There are days of walking through fields, with many blisters and severe pain in my Achilles tendon. But I don't give up and eventually reach Lake Mjøsa.

On the west side of the lake, I walk to Lillehammer, where I spend the night in a hostel for the first and only time.

The Gudbrandsdal Valley

The trail continues through the Gudbrandsdal Valley, a very beautiful valley through which the Lågen River flows. The turquoise blue river offers picturesque photos and accompanies me until shortly before the ascent to the Fjell.

I meet a woman from Germany who works in Norway. We walk together until Otta. She has hiked the trail before and can give me many tips on where to stay overnight. She actually walks much faster than me, but she decides to walk across the Fjell with me.

The Dovrefjell

Fjell means mountain, which is the most beautiful part of the pilgrimage trail. In one day, we climb to over 700 meters and take three days to walk across the Fjell. Then, we descend in one day. The Fjell is definitely the highlight in terms of landscape, and I thoroughly enjoy not walking on asphalt.

On the way to Oppdal, I met a pilgrim priest who works in Trondheim. I encountered him several times. He walks in the opposite direction to meet as many pilgrims as possible, which I think is a great idea.

After the Fjell, our paths separate from my companion and me. However, after the Fjell, I feel a bit deflated because the most beautiful part is behind me. But I walk between 25 and 30 kilometers every day and eventually reach the vicinity of Trondheim.

I realize that I just want to arrive. On the last evening of my hike, I meet Luca and her friend again. They are cycling from Nordkapp to Sørkapp. I am incredibly happy to meet them again. And in a way, we are also experiencing a similar adventure.

I had given up hope and believed that I needed a reason to return to Norway. Because so far, I haven't seen a moose yet. So, I assume that it won't happen on the last day either because I am now only 25 km away from Trondheim.

But as fate would have it, I actually see a young moose on the last day, who is not at all shy. He stands next to the trail, leisurely eating. He is not bothered by me, and I can even take photos.

Arrived

After 29 days in Norway's wild nature, I finally arrive at Nidaros Cathedral in Trondheim. The cathedral is really beautiful, and after taking my final photo, I go to the pilgrim information to pick up my Olavsbrev. The people at the pilgrim center are very nice, and I feel welcome right away. I also meet Einar, the pilgrim priest, again.

At this point, I would like to thank everyone I met in Norway and who talked to me. I would also like to send a big thank you home because the people there provided me with assistance and always answered the phone, even when it wasn't convenient. Thank you very much, I love you all very much.

The St. Olav's Festival

I have decided to stay in Trondheim for another week to explore the city and be part of the St. Olav's Festival. The St. Olav's Festival is held every year on St. Olav's Day and is a celebration that lasts for several days.

There are events such as a pilgrim breakfast followed by a pilgrimage walk to the cathedral, concerts, speeches, discussions, and many church services. I am part of a church service pilgrimage walk from one church to the next, where we sing or walk in silence along the way. I have met two very nice women during this time. There are two groups walking, and they meet in the city. In the first joint church service, I read an English prayer. The final church service takes place in Nidaros Cathedral, and Einar asked me if I would like to briefly speak about my hike there. I am very happy that he asked me and agree to it. In addition, a blind woman who walked in a group and a sibling pair who hiked with their family also speak. Einar is glad that I agreed because he was looking for someone who is not from Norway and hiked alone.

So, I am even allowed to join the procession and enter the cathedral. I also sit in the front of the altar area with all the pastors and priests. It is truly a great honor for me.

Since there are no buses to the campground in the evening, I am allowed to stay in the pilgrim hostel. The staff there is very eager to help me get my money back because they don't want me to pay for my accommodation there as I have taken on a service during the church service.

The time in Trondheim has helped me to get used to not hiking anymore, and I am already looking forward to being home.

You can read about how I got home in my next and for now, last post.

Until then, stay healthy.

Yours, Maike :D