Rakabudiswa: 27.11.2018
Our Arrival in Hanoi, Vietnam
We arrived in Hanoi safely and were amazed in the first few minutes after arrival by the many fields with small fires burning. The sky was already very dark and foggy around 6 pm, it smelled of smoke, and when we left the airport building, we were greeted by the traffic chaos of Hanoi.
A driver from the hotel was waiting outside with a 'Flovain' sign, and it took us a while to realize that he was referring to us. The wild ride started with three of us. Past the burning fields, over various highways, and across the Red River into the Old Quarter. There is honking everywhere. Constantly. Honking is done here in every possible situation, mostly as a warning. And it is needed frequently. In addition to the usual evening rush hour, thousands of motorcyclists join the lanes, the cars, and squeeze through the narrowest gaps. For our driving habits, it was definitely a culture shock.
We were greeted extremely friendly at the hotel. Before you know it, all your bags are taken from you, the doors are opened, and you are afraid of being carried as well. If you carry your luggage alone, you feel like you are doing something inappropriate. The hospitality of the Vietnamese is shown to us in its full size and is very different from what we experienced in Hong Kong. Our room is nice and serves its purpose. When you consider that the average family in Hanoi has about 21 square meters of living space for 10 people, you feel really bad in such a spacious room. From the balcony, you can see the neighboring houses with the train tracks running right in front of them. Life takes place only millimeters away from the rushing trains. These also run very regularly at night and announce themselves with a loud 'Tuut tuut'. The rumble of the railway reminds us of the trains from our childhood and has little to do with the hissing sounds of the high-speed trains that run nowadays.
We used the first evening to explore the streets around the hotel, and we were not disappointed. Thousands of motorbikes envelop the streets in a sea of honking, flashing, and stinking impressions. However, the chaos is surprisingly organized. Although everyone drives however, whenever, and wherever they want, there are no accidents. We cross the streets using the method of closing our eyes and going through and always hope for the best. Various dishes are prepared and sold at the street food stalls on the sidewalks using the simplest means. Apparently, the people of Hanoi enjoy spending their time outside. The cramped and often meager living conditions and the pleasant weather also invite you to do so. The wild hustle and bustle is simply overwhelming. And the friendliness and openness of the Vietnamese make an aimless evening in Hanoi special!
Day 2
The alarm clock rings early at 6 am because we have a lot to do today. After a small breakfast of fried rice and exotic fruits, we start. First, we take a closer look at the train tracks and the adjacent houses. Impressive how life takes place here.
We make our way to the Temple of Literature thanks to Flo's determination. Located in the north of the Old Quarter, this Confucian complex was not built for religious purposes, but for teaching. It is one of THE sanctuaries of Vietnam. It consists of 5 consecutive courtyards and can be visited for about 1.20 euros. You can learn a lot about the history of calligraphy, admire prayer facilities, or simply enjoy the architecture. When we arrived early in the morning, about 100 small children were sitting on tiny stools, listening to a lady telling the story of Ho Chi Minh (at least that was the only name we understood - but the children apparently knew the story). In between, there were collective calls and greetings, similar to what we know from films and stories about the pioneers of the FDJ (Free German Youth). Some children received a red scarf at the end. During our visit, the little ones were partly bewildered and surprised to see us. The cheekier ones said hello and wanted a high five with us or posed wildly in front of our cameras. Apparently, as Europeans, we are still a small attraction for children. It was funny nonetheless and again shows how open and friendly the people here are.
After hearing a lot about Ho Chi Minh without understanding anything, we made our way to his mausoleum. In Vietnamese culture and history, he stands as the bringer of peace to the country, ranked as the top hero. His body was embalmed against his will and can be visited in the mausoleum. For many Vietnamese, this is the most important excursion ever because they owe their peace to him and give him a high status. However, for 3 months a year, his remains (he died in 1969) are kept in Russia for treatment. This also applies to November. Why in Russia? Lenin is also regularly spruced up there (but every Friday, which is why we missed him on our trip to Moscow), and there are experts for that. The mausoleum and the associated facilities are also an attraction without Ho Chi Minh.
Opposite is the Parliament building, proudly displaying the flag of Vietnam.
At lunchtime, we ate at a street food stall and tried soup and rice. A good choice, and we were glad not to have accidentally ordered what the neighboring table got: a large plate of chicken feet. Another specialty here.
Afterwards, we strolled through the city's shopping street. Here, goods are advertised in tiny shops, and you can get everything your heart desires. You just have to be careful not to be run over. The motorbikes rush past you so closely, and walking on the sidewalk is out of the question - this is where the bikes park. At the end of the street is the Don Xuan Center. We also know a center of the same name from Berlin-Lichtenberg, so we had to take a look here as well. Wow! It's hard to walk among meter-high shelves filled with goods from all over the world (there is really only about 30 cm of space to walk). People sleep, play cards, or do their accounting between the shelves. It seems to us that the stores in the Don Xuan Center in Berlin could perfectly fill their warehouses here. But it quickly becomes too much for us, and we head out again.
The last stop today was Hoan Kiem Lake in the Old Quarter. In German, this means something like Lake of the Returned Sword. This is due to the legend of a gigantic golden turtle that brought the poor fisherman Le Loi a sword that made him invincible. After winning a war and becoming king in 1428, he went on a thanksgiving parade to the gods when the turtle appeared and asked for the sword back. Allegedly, the sword then slipped out of the sheath before Le Loi could think about it, rose up, and turned into a jade-colored dragon that plunged into the lake. Le Loi appointed the animal as the guardian spirit of the lake and had the Turtle Tower built on the island in the lake. To this day, it is the landmark of the city of Hanoi. In 1968, a giant turtle was actually found, which, with a length of 2 m and an estimated age of 400 years, brought the legend to life. Its remains can be seen in the Jade Temple on the island.
But now our feet hurt (they are also black from dust and dirt), and due to the constantly inhaled exhaust fumes, we can hardly think clearly anymore. So back to the hotel, wash up, and later we'll look for dinner outside.
It remains exciting: tomorrow we will leave early for a tour of Halong Bay!