Lima - the Urban

"Lima is a dirty and dangerous city that can be safely avoided." I had heard such statements time and again, mostly based on experiences in the 80s and 90s. In fact, the first impression seemed to confirm some of it. The last 90 minutes of the bus ride from Pisco were spent almost entirely in an endless traffic jam, flanked by desolate urban areas. But apart from a catastrophic traffic situation, polluted air, and monotonous concrete deserts, this city has a lot to offer.

Once in Miraflores, the trendy district and one of the most privileged residential areas in Lima, we walked through Parque Kennedy along a very attractive shopping street down to the coast. Parque Kennedy offers a special feature that particularly attracted us: dozens of cats live here. Apparently, these cats were abandoned there by great owners, and now they have become part of the cityscape and are a kind of attraction. The cats look good, and there are food and water bowls everywhere. Quite funny. When we reached the sea, the Miraflores cliffs with the waterfront promenade below offered a spectacular view. Paragliders circled in the air, offering tandem flights as well. The panorama is certainly unique.

Unfortunately, Bettina had eaten something that upset her stomach that evening, so on Day 2, I set off alone for the time being. The first stop was the Inca temple complex "Huaca Pucllana," located in the middle of the city and only 15 minutes' walk from our hotel. The joy of the modest entrance fee was short-lived, as soon as I entered the complex, a friendly gentleman approached me and explained that the visit is only possible with a guided tour and that you cannot move around alone. This was now the umpteenth time in Peru that such a "detail" was withheld at the entrance, and you have to spend at least an hour to see little and learn a lot. Since I really wanted to see the complex, I had to bite the bullet once again and trot along with a guide for an hour. However, since my Spanish is now good enough for communication, I explained to him what I thought of it. Apparently, they do have a problem with tourists (including or especially South American ones) damaging or spraying things - unbelievable!

After that, we continued towards the center with the "Metrobus." The Metrobus system is a great thing. The buses run on exclusive lanes in the middle of the city highway from south to north (or vice versa). The stations are accessible from bridges. The buses are fast as they bypass the traffic jams, but they are extremely crowded, and there is currently only one axis in the city. So I reached the center in a relatively short time and with a lot of physical contact. It's not so bad because people are generally very decent, and the atmosphere is not at all tense. I wandered around the business center for about two hours until I reached the beautiful Plaza San Martin. The city makes you tired. The air is dirty, the honking is constant, and crossing any street is a battle. On the other hand, as you get closer to the historic center, you will find a lot of beautiful and interesting architecture. Churches in the French style, numerous impressive Art Deco buildings, and monumental structures.

Since Bettina was feeling better in the afternoon, she suggested that some fresh air might do us good. Well, fresh air is a bit of an issue in Lima, but nonetheless, we strolled towards the sea again, to a very posh shopping mall, right on the cliffs overlooking the waves of the Pacific. From there, we took a taxi to a neighborhood slightly south, Barranco. Formerly a bit run-down, it is now a real gem. Many old beautiful houses have been renovated and now host cozy cafes and bars, lush gardens, parks, and a magnificent viewpoint with a view of the ocean. The selection of restaurants, from very large and elegant to very small, seems inexhaustible. We liked it so much that we decided to come back again the following evening.

For the last day, we had planned something special: "Callao Monumental." Callao is actually a separate city and is home to both the port and the airport of Lima. Besides, it also houses a large part of Lima's crime and drug trade and was long known as a no-go area. For a large part of this city, unfortunately, that is still true, but near the port, initiators, artists, and politicians have launched a project in which more and more streets have been revitalized in recent years. Building after building is being reclaimed, and the historic architecture is shining in new splendor. Galleries, cafes, restaurants, and above all, amazing murals. The visit is definitely worthwhile. However, one should take a taxi there because on the way to Callao Monumental, we passed through areas where I would have thought twice about walking around - even during the day.

We also explored the historic center. Numerous pedestrian zones have been created around the Plaza de las Armas (yes, they are really called that almost everywhere in South America...), which makes the stay really pleasant. The Lima Cathedral is worth a visit, and best of all, you can visit it without a guided tour! We also went to the Mercado Central, which makes a much tidier impression than all the markets we have seen so far, and the meat counters are quite appetizing. As a little bonus and quirkiness, we then visited the small Chinatown, with a noodle soup in the midst of chaotic activity. Finally, we only needed an overview, and you can enjoy that from Cerro San Cristobal, a hill behind the center. Since almost two years ago, a double-decker tourist bus drove straight on in a curve and landed on a shooting range (!) (result: 10 dead and over 40 injured), no buses are allowed to drive up the mountain anymore. So we persuaded a taxi driver to take us up there. Great view, but no distant view due to smog, still a great place. Our taxi driver, Mario Enrique, also thought so, and he suddenly found a liking for photography and wanted to take pictures with us as well. The mother cat with two kittens also enjoyed the cat food that Bettina always carries in her hand luggage.

In the meantime, a friendly relationship had developed with Mario Enrique, and we now know everything about him, his family, and the fact that he was celebrating his 65th birthday that day, which he proved to us with his ID. Even a last-minute shopping trip to the "Inca Market" turned into a celebration, and the two very beautiful and cheerful Peruvian ladies apparently enjoyed our company - and of course, our shopping.

And before you know it, the three weeks are almost over, and we are already on our way to the Dominican Republic, where we will spend one more night before boarding our direct flight to Zurich tomorrow. We have seen and experienced so much that it is hard to put into words, but our enthusiasm for this fascinating continent, its diverse cultures, and above all, its people has definitely been fueled. There is still so much to discover in South America!Contents