21.10. Huallanca - 1,840 m -

21.10.

also this morning I saved 10 soles and had breakfast at the other restaurant. I am early because I want to be dry before the afternoon rain.
The rain that lasted until night is forgotten.
Blue sky, but unfortunately the cordilleras in white clouds.
I take another photo of the plaza with the pansies and the snapdragons, which are blooming at the same time here, and set off.

a snapdragon in spring

I have forgotten his name. A man with only two tooth stumps in his mouth, which makes him look much older. I think he will be in his mid-60s. Full beard and nicotine-yellowed moustache. We exchange our stories, and in doing so, I realize that I understand Argentinean Spanish better.

if I had known what awaits me...

We take another photo. I want to continue. Although I should definitely make it to the border within two months, who knows what else will happen in between. I just have to make it by January 2nd. There are no neighboring countries where I can simply enter and exit.

On the way, I see him taking more photos, but I continue driving. Then I turn left into the mountains, he drives along the coast. He has to slowly make his way back to Argentina and drives via Lima to Cusco and then probably via Bolivia to Argentina. Nos vemos! We will see each other. Maybe in Cusco.

Huaraz is at 3,200 m - in front of me is the ascent to 4,500 m.
The sky looks grayish in the east - in the double sense.
The mountains are hardly visible anymore. It's more than just a shower. Much more. But I still hope to get past it, but I'm approaching the black wall of clouds quite quickly. The Vespa is (still) taking the climb and the switchbacks with ease. It's getting cold. The first raindrops come hesitantly, then subside. But then it gets more and more. Then they are no longer raindrops, but small hailstones. I grit my teeth, have no more eye for the landscape, only for the road. Will it be slippery? Is there black ice in some places? Driving becomes laborious and exciting like a thriller. Fortunately, there are now fewer curves. I drive over a windy plateau, the rain is gone again.
So now the Vespa announces its needs. Jet change. I even find a parking bay quite soon and get to work. It goes quite quickly. But then I notice that my fingers are wet. And already the hot coolant spurts out of the hose. Hm - does it have to happen now - right up here. The sky above me turns dark to black again and I hear thunder rumbling. I'm getting uneasy - what will it be like up here at over 4,000 m altitude? I am wise enough to have a long piece of spare hose with me and my Swiss knife with a good pair of scissors. The damage is quickly repaired. Coolant is now also part of my equipment, because I've had to deal with it more frequently lately, refill and continue driving. The climb continues. The initial rain turns into snow!!! I believe the Vespa has never experienced snow before. The windscreen is white. The snow stays on the rocks surrounding me. Fortunately, the road remains wet and fortunately its color doesn't change. I start to freeze, but the heated grips work reliably and my hands warm up again. Finally, the climb decreases.
4,500 meters of altitude. Only 55 meters short of the record in southern Peru.

I've had enough now. it has started to rain and even the heated grips don't help against the increasing cold. I have to go somewhere, put on my fleece and have something hot to drink.

I left early and could finish work now. If it were sunny, I would drive further. I arrive in a village, drive to the plaza and find a restaurant there. Hall-like, cozy and cold. Doesn't matter. I will have tea here. And rice, potatoes and trout are available as a menu. First a hot soup!
The spirits revive. I ask for a hotel, which is right next door. I get a room, the Vespa gets its parking space. I take a hot and extensive shower. Cold afterwards, to warm up, and under the horse blanket. There I stay until the next morning.
Actually, I was well rested, but today's tour was exhausting. In addition, the Vespa's running behaviour was not good. It was still wobbling. Not as bad as before dismantling the braces, but I was unsure, especially in the curves.

tomorrow is Sunday. maybe I will still find a workshop that will take care of the Vespa.