Surprise in El Calafate

Patagonia has the largest ice field on the southern hemisphere outside of Antarctica with the Campo de Hielo Sur, and of course we don't want to miss these impressive glaciers. So we cross the border again and treat ourselves to the slightly expensive but comfortable campsite in the Argentinean town of El Calafate. Comfort in this context mainly means clean toilets, preferably with lockable doors and washrooms with hot water - one becomes humble and can enjoy hot showers with proper water pressure like a child.

El Calafate is a lovely town, also very touristy and naturally focusing on outdoor activities, but much cozier, more relaxed, diverse, and more pleasing - the whole atmosphere is simply more lively, cheerful, and much friendlier than in the Chilean Puerto Natales. Since the weather forecast only predicts good weather and especially little wind for the next day, we spontaneously book a boat trip on the incredibly beautiful Lago Argentino, the largest lake in Argentina. It is fed, among others, by the Upsala Glacier (one of the largest glaciers on earth with 565 sq km and actually named after the university in Uppsala, Sweden, which financed the first expeditions here) and the Spegazzini Glacier, named after an Italian natural scientist who has conducted extensive research in Patagonia. The boat ride on the modern catamaran through the lonely and wild landscape was impressive, the view of the floating icebergs and the tongues of the two glaciers was truly a special experience. After the boat trip, we feel like doing some exercise and above all, we also want to see the Perito Moreno Glacier, the most famous glacier in Argentina and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Therefore, we venture into the Los Glaciares National Park and hike on walkways and stairs to get very close to the edge of this glacier, which is still growing. Since it is already quite late, we have this incredible view almost to ourselves and are fascinated not only by the sight but also by the loud sounds, the creaking, groaning, and cracking of the huge, partly deep blue glacier, from which pieces break off again and again. To be able to experience this in complete peace and quiet has deeply impressed us, although it is difficult to capture in pictures.

The next morning, we decide to stay in El Calafate for two more nights. We are a bit tired from traveling, we like the city, the showers are really great, and we also want to visit the glacier museum. In addition, there is an incredibly good ice cream parlor and a German bakery, so more than enough reasons for an extended stay. When we manage to get a bit of internet, we can at least check our Whatsapp messages and discover a message from Ferran - diligent blog readers may remember the young Spaniard from Corre Sombrero, who is cycling around the world. We reply and, incredible coincidence, he is also in El Calafate. We immediately arrange to meet for the evening, spend a long, convivial evening together, and are placed in front of the pub door as the last guests at around half past one. He also wants to ride the Carretera Austral - maybe we'll meet him there again. Feliz viaje Ferran!