Twentieth day

Harstad - Brensholmen

119km

Average speed: 20.0 km/h

Sunny weather from morning to evening

Constant light to moderate headwind (but who cares about headwind in such weather)

Since the sun never sets and the division of days is very arbitrary, I'll start with the reunion with Björn. I waited for him at the harbor and was prepared for a longer, cool (windy) waiting time (he had a business dinner until 7 and I was already there at 5), but he showed up 'too early' for over half an hour. The reunion was immediately very warm and my concerns (not seen each other for 10 years, not having much to do with each other during our studies) vanished. We walked together to his house, which offers a fantastic view of the city, the fjord, and the mountains behind it. And the fact that the weather improved again and everything was bathed in strange, golden light made the atmosphere even more special.

I also met his wife and one-year-old daughter. Together, we flew a round with the copter over the city, and I think the spark ignited a bit.

Later, the two of us sat in the living room for hours, drinking beer and Venezuelan rum, talking. And I think we would still be sitting there at sunrise (hahaha) if I didn't have to catch the ferry at 8 and if Björn and Maru didn't have to go back to work. In the morning, I left relatively early and because I got lost 2-3 times on the way to the harbor (measured as the crow flies, just over one kilometer (tested the night before with the copter)), it got very tight and a few minutes after I got the bike on the fast ferry, it already left.

Dear Maru, dear Björn, I want to thank you again for your warm and generous hospitality. The hours I spent with you have already become a very special highlight of my tour.

I arrived in Skrolsvik with the fast ferry and followed a very small and almost unused road on the south side of the island. It was a wonderful day. There were almost no clouds in the sky, the sun was warm, and there was almost no wind (changed during the day). I don't know if it was because of the weather, but the landscape was much more lovely than the days before. The mountains were not as high and rugged, the sea was deep blue, one small bay followed another, and the pine trees spread a nearly Mediterranean ambiance. Unfortunately, I had an accident on this wonderful route that I haven't been able to solve yet. I restarted my phone and put it back in my pocket. There must have been three wrong PIN entries, because my SIM card is blocked. And, of course, I don't have my PUK number. If the problem cannot be solved, I will not be able to receive or make phone calls, and I will only have internet if I find a free Wi-Fi. So don't worry if I don't get in touch for a long time or if I am not reachable.

I noticed the problem when I was having my second breakfast in front of a store. I went into the store to see the screen better, and when I came back, only two of my three pastries were left, and the bag was somewhere else on the table. Since there was no pastry on the floor, I strongly suspect seagulls.

The next kilometers led me along the entire south coast of the island. 15km before Finnsnes, I took an almost deserted road inland and cut off the southeastern corner of the island. But I didn't do it for that reason, but to see not only the coast but also the moorland of the areas further away from the coast. It was incredible to see the flower splendor on the meadows: orchids, dandelions, sorrel, wild carnations, buttercups, clover, cranesbill (?), marsh marigolds, sundew (even flowering), wild carrots, lady's mantle, and so many flowers whose names I don't know. I am in the middle of Arctic summer (plus spring).

Despite having headwind, I made good progress. And already in the early afternoon, I saw the sign 'Ferry Botnhamn 30km'. Great, I would have covered over 110 km until then, and I would look for a place to spend the night near Brensholmen. The ferry had not arrived yet, and I tried to use the free internet of an Austrian tour bus to solve my PUK problem, but the internet was too slow. That's when I saw a cyclist with a red jacket and yellow front panniers turning towards the ferry terminal. Jonathan. What a coincidence. I had been expecting him to be ahead of me for many kilometers, as his route today was significantly shorter than mine. Together, we found a place to spend the night in a wide bay with a sandy beach just behind Brensholmen. However, we are not the only ones here. Surely, 7-10 other groups are grilling or camping here.

I got way too much sun today, and the sun allergy on my hand is getting worse again, and for a day now, I have had a painful rash on my Achilles' heel and my left little toe. That's why I will go to bed soon and hope that my body will regenerate a bit.