Abonné Grèce... kokende na ba rives ya sika

We are on the island of Methanon on the eastern coast of the Peloponnese. This island is full of volcanoes. Nowhere else are there as many seismological activities as here. We park in the 'main village' of Methana in the harbor. Here are hot springs. As we drive by, we can already see the turquoise light blue lake with a (run-down) bathing facility. The warm water smells extremely of rotten eggs and sulfur. In addition, it looks so dirty - no - we don't want to swim here. The bathing facility has probably been closed for a long time and the lake is just stagnant. A nice Greek tells us that there are more hot springs near the edge of the town that flow into the sea. We start off in high spirits - the warm water is too tempting. But when we arrive, we find out that it is unfortunately not warm, but cold. It quickly dilutes with seawater. Okay - no hot springs today.

Back at the bus, Kilian throws out the fishing line. We are perfectly positioned on the quay wall. After a few minutes of excitement - a big fish bites, but unfortunately it escapes. But it keeps swimming near the bait. Is there fresh sea fish today?? Some Bulgarians join us. They also cast out their fishing lines. One of them, right next to Kilian, catches the big fish on his line 5 minutes later. The world is unfair and Paul and I can't stop laughing - Kilian sulks (grinning).

The next morning, the Bulgarians come back for fishing. After a short time, one of them pulls out a huge Barracuda. Wow!! I get to hold the heavyweight for the photo. Not bad - but such a big fish??? No thanks... our pan is not big enough :) But Kilian's hunting fever has awakened. He quickly gets the fishing rod and starts fishing - fishing - fishing (yawn) and still fishing. But nothing wants to take the bait. The fish all show him the cold fin grinning.

Two days later, we start our island tour. It's not that big. We are treated to dreamlike views of the sea and the mountains. Untouched and almost deserted, the island presents itself in beautiful sunshine. We pass several volcanoes. We would love to make the half-hour hike all the way to the top - but we would have to walk for several kilometers through pine forests and we see filled nests of the processionary moth everywhere. No thanks!! We love our dogs - it's too hot at the moment. At the other end, we find a great beach (without pine trees) and have a campfire in the evening. A nice young Slovak family with a small child joins us and a nice evening begins. The three of them are also traveling in their makeshift bus for 8 months. We get to know Thomas, Barbara, and Jergei.

Then we drive to Korfus. A small fishing village below Corinth awaits us. We park on the designated camper field in the village by the sea. The dogs are allowed to explore the field on a very long leash - which they immediately enjoy doing. They sniff the mouse holes in competition and have a great joy. If we had known what would happen tomorrow, we would have fled. We go into town with the dogs and Kilian and I decide to go out for a really delicious Greek dinner. Typical Greek with salad, tzatziki, souvlaki, and everything that goes with it. It was delicious. The owner is almost beside himself with joy - we are probably his only guests today. Fully satisfied and full, we waddle back to the bus. Paul joins us in the evening. Then Lucy starts vomiting at night. We have to clean her bed several times. We don't think anything bad of it - it happens with dogs sometimes. The same game happens again a few times in the morning. I go for a run but the little one is weak and slightly apathetic. She lies down in the shade and closes her eyes exhausted. Mmmhhh?? What to do?? Wait?? But then an excited Greek woman comes by with her dog (with a muzzle) and tells us that there are poison baits lying around everywhere on the field and in the village. That's why almost all dogs (that have an owner) wear muzzles here!! Great!! The alarm bells are ringing - adrenaline rushes. Panic sets in. We quickly throw everything - including dogs - into the bus and race off to the nearest animal clinic. Every minute counts with poison. Lucy is lying apathetically in the back. The 45-minute drive feels endless and seems like hours to us. Kilian pushes Knut to the limit. We arrive at the clinic in a state of excitement and a friendly young doctor takes care of us. An ultrasound is done. She gets an injection and we are informed about the different types of poison. The Greeks mainly use plant poison - the dog falls over within an hour and is dead. But there is also rat poison - and that takes effect slowly!! We can only wait. Lucy is put on a diet and we leave the clinic feeling depressed and quite upset, and go to the nearest campsite. Now we have to wait. But Lucy is more lively in the afternoon and sniffs around. Hope is rising. In the evening, she suddenly feels hot in her little bed. I am very excited and worry a lot during the night. It would be terrible if we couldn't bring this sweet little stinker home. But the next morning she is back to her old self. Cuddled up and extremely hungry, she wags her tail around us again. Then we go back to the clinic as agreed to have her checked out. But the vet gives us the all clear. She is over the hump!! I send a prayer of thanks to the universe. We then have both dogs' blood taken for various Mediterranean diseases and stock up on anti-venom injections (just in case something like this happens again), medication against heartworm, leishmaniasis, ticks, and so on... - all for the dog :)

Happily and a few euros poorer, we leave the clinic. We pick up our laundry from the laundromat. It was picked up yesterday from the campsite and is ready today. Everything has been washed: bed linen, dog blankets, clothing, towels... a huge pile of dirty laundry had accumulated. Everything is fresh and fragrant again for 12 euros!

We meet up with Paul at the Corinth Canal. 50 meters high, 6.3 km long, and a puny 23 meters wide, the canal presents itself. Only medium-sized and small ships can pass through it. They are towed through by a tugboat. The large ships have to make a 200-mile detour around the Peloponnese. We are impressed as we stand on the narrow bridge above the canal. Then we drive into Corinth. What an ugly city!! We don't like it at all - so we quickly do a few errands and get out of here.

We start towards the mountains with an overnight stay in the port of Ossas, then the Kilini Mountains with the 'high Ziria' want to be hiked by us (or so we thought!!). Here we go. We accidentally drive onto the highway for a short stretch (about 10km). Then comes a toll booth. 5.80 euros!! - For about 5 minutes on the highway (screaming) . Quickly back onto the normal road. We enter the mountains. But the mountains look strange here. Not rocky, but clay and sand. But everything is covered with trees. It's a wonder they hold on. But a few meters further, we see it - they don't hold on - landslides everywhere. We drive past large sand piles that have been cleared from the road. We don't want to drive through here in heavy rain either. We see eagles flying overhead. Purple alpine violets line our path. We pass by nice mountain villages that are somehow all deserted. Then it becomes rockier. We go higher and higher. All the pine trees are full of nests of the darned poisonous caterpillars (gulp). Then it becomes rockier and after a curve, we finally see the high Ziria and: Oh no - snow!! After the next curve, we are already in it. In the middle of the snow!! Well, we didn't think of that anymore - it's almost summery by the sea. We can't reach our chosen spot at a lake. The gravel road is full of snow. We drive higher and higher and come to a ski lift with a mountain restaurant. We decide to park here and let the dogs out. There's a lot going on. Lucy experiences snow for the first time in her life :) All the discomfort of the past few days is forgotten. They romp through the snow with great joy - how beautiful it is to see.

Kilian slides down the slope with a plastic bag - what fun - okay then snow :)

The next morning, it's time. Now we have to say goodbye to Paul. We have been traveling together for almost three months and have had a really great time together. Thank you dear Paul for the wonderful time. We will probably never forget this winter here on the Peloponnese with you. It is slowly time for us to leave the beautiful Peloponnese and head towards Albania. The spirit of adventure and travel is back :) Unfortunately, Paul cannot travel to Albania with his English driver's license. He has to take the return route through Bulgaria, Romania, and Hungary.

After 45 minutes on a winding road, we are back by the sea. Alone! For the first time in a long time....

Back to summer :) Lemon and orange trees are bending under the weight of the many fruits. It is warm again - the thermometer shows 22°.

We drive along the coast for two days in a leisurely manner towards Patra, and then the time has come. We see the big white bridge in the distance. It connects the island with the mainland. Quickly pay 20 euros and then we're on it. I look back at this island paradise with a heavy heart. We have experienced the most beautiful winter of our lives here. Olive trees, palm trees, cacti, orange and lemon trees, great lonely beaches, spectacular mountains, and friendly people have become almost a daily occurrence for us. We will always remember the Peloponnese as our personal paradise. I actually get a little teary-eyed.

Then we are back on the mainland. In Kato Vasiliki, we find a place by the sea. All the nostalgia is forgotten. This bay tops everything we have seen so far. Turquoise water with fine sand, framed by high cliffs. Truly spectacular. Our bus looks tiny in front of these huge rocks. Behind us is a meadow and our furry noses immediately start their work - making the mouse world unsafe. Unfortunately, it's extremely windy here and since it's still early in the day, we have a relaxing break and then continue on. Suddenly, while driving, we hear that nasty noise again in the front right of the bus. Oh no - we know this already. We had this problem last summer in Poland. Our ABS ring has come off again (darn darn darn). The Poles had glued it in temporarily because it's not easy to get a new one (for such an old car). It held up - until NOW. And the Albanian mountains are waiting for us :(.

Unfortunately, it's Saturday afternoon (of course). We find a workshop that is just about to close. They refer us to a truck workshop - but only on Tuesday!! Because Monday is a national holiday in Greece - no one works!! Everyone celebrates the liberation from the Turks back then. Why do these things always happen at the most inconvenient times!!?? Okay, there's nothing we can do - we look for a place to spend the night. Many farmers sell their strawberries on the streets - strawberry season has begun yippee!!

In Vantsa, we find a great spot on the endless sandy beach. There's a well with drinking water nearby. I take the opportunity to do some laundry. We also enjoy a long shower (yay) - we can easily fill up our water tank again tomorrow. Even the locals come with jerry cans to fill up with the (apparently really great) spring water for their homes. They are all extremely friendly, honking and waving as they drive past. The Greeks continue to amaze us :)

Then on Monday, it's a holiday. Many Greeks come early in the morning to go out with their boats and catch fish. One of them gets his car stuck in the sand (apparently not only stupid tourists do that lol). We try to push him out. But he is too far in. He waves us off calmly - he wants to go fishing first - someone will help him out in the evening. That's what we call southern serenity.

We drive towards Preveza in the hope of finding a workshop tomorrow. Our brakes sound terrible and we are just crawling along. To get to Preveza, we have to go UNDERNEATH the sea (yep). An underwater road has been built. Great - we last did this at the North Cape. We pay 7.50 euros and off we go. We quickly pass through the 2 km under the sea and come out in the middle of Preveza. Today, on the national holiday, it is truly crowded here. The weather is great - everyone has the day off - and everyone is out and about. Unfortunately, the workshop looks unreliable from the outside. Hhmmm... a new plan is needed. We ask Google (how did we survive without the internet in the past?) - and find a workshop with great customer reviews in Lefkas (or rather on Lefkas - it's an island). Here we go!! But unfortunately, we have to go back - so another 7.50 euros for the underwater tunnel (grumble grumble) and off to Levkas.

We drive onto the island over a dam an hour later and are immediately delighted. What a beautiful piece of earth. With a canal and gondolas, it is somewhat reminiscent of Venice. The workshop also looks appealing from the outside, so we are there on time the next Tuesday morning. The junior boss immediately takes care of our problem (they are just nice, grinning). And yes, the ABS ring is off. We can't just get a new one. He sends us away.... he tries to weld it back on and needs time for that. We stroll through the town in the meantime (which the dogs don't really like). We really like it here. Then three hours later it's all done. Knut is braking again and it only costs a whopping 70 euros. We also order new shock absorbers and make an appointment for Friday. Now we have three days to explore the small island.

We go to the Nidri Waterfall inland. From the parking lot, it's a 15-minute hike and we are there. Truly a spectacular river landscape with large rocks. Smaller waterfalls come down repeatedly. The water is practically transparent. Then at the very top, we find the 'big one'. The water rushes down about 20 meters into a crystal-clear swimming pool. We have swimwear with us - the temptation to take a bath here is just too great. I actually manage to go in up to my calves lol - the water is freezing cold (scream). Kilian manages to dive in for about 2 seconds (impressive). I chicken out - no thanks, it's too cold for me. Our dogs love it and run around and have a great joy. The hike up here was worth it.

In the evening, we spend the night at (extremely difficult to reach) Kamari Beach. Over 3 km of dirt road (no wonder our shock absorbers are shot again grinning). But crystal-clear water awaits us and a beach that we have all to ourselves (no one else is stupid enough to drive this road). A Greek comes by - he's looking for his goats!! About 180 of them have escaped and disappeared off the face of the earth. He gives us orders on where to drive them if they come by here. Haha... let's see where our dogs will lead them... probably in all directions. He is very talkative and unfortunately, we again only understand a few words. His English is terrible but it doesn't bother him - apparently our puzzled faces don't bother him either because he just keeps talking. But we don't see any goats that day - and no fish on the plate either hhmpppfff. Kilian fishes tirelessly... he won't leave without sea fish (lol!). So in the evening, we have spaghetti with tomato sauce instead grinning.

Then we continue towards Albania. We spend one more night in Greece on a campsite by the sea and then it's time. We say goodbye to 'our' Greece. We have spent the most beautiful winter of our lives here. The Greeks are an incredible bunch of people. Despite the poor economic situation, they have not lost their good mood and friendliness. We were warmly welcomed everywhere and have not had a single bad experience. In addition, the landscape in Greece is simply spectacular. Lonely sandy beaches, spectacular mountains, palm trees, cacti, olive, orange, and lemon trees are everywhere to be seen. We were able to experience 'green' Greece. Everything starts to bloom in January and the meadows are lush green. Most tourists come from May/June onwards... when everything is already burnt and brown.

We leave Greece with a heavy heart... but at some point, we have to make our way. Goodbye beautiful beautiful Greece.... we will definitely see each other again.... Albania here we come :)