El Chalten

4.2. Laguna Torre

The rooster crows early and we go to the reception to ask if we can use a telephone. To our horror, the receptionist tells us that there is not A SINGLE telephone in El Chalten that can make international calls. Where have we ended up... Since the Swiss are at home around this time, we try to call people via WhatsApp and ask if they could make the reservation and payment for us. The 5th person we call (again, endless thanks Valeria!) has the time and credit card to go through the reservation process with us. And who would have thought, it works on the second (the page blocked again) attempt and we get the third-last spot on the only ferry that was still available!!! Wow, what a thriller!!!!! We are infinitely relieved and can relax. (Although entering Chile is not a done deal yet: i.e. no recovered certificate because they still haven't sent it to us and possibly a still positive PCR test). But that's in two weeks and we'll just forget about it now and enjoy the day. The coffee and toast are amazing and we decide to do the easiest hike (about 20 km) to Laguna Torre. The day is beautiful and the Torres with the small floating icebergs in the foreground are breathtaking. We can relax and look forward to the days to come! Back in the "village," we have lunch and buy supplies for the 2-day hike planned for tomorrow.

Roman still goes to deliver the $1500 that we have been carrying around with us for almost two weeks. Sebastian, the car rental guy, asked us to bring the cash to Argentina because the transfer costs are horrendously high (if I understood correctly, 50%!!). So, the repair of one of their fleet cars is settled as well.

Writing in the diary, drinking beer, and taking showers are now on the program J

5.2. Laguna de los tres / Mount Fitzroy

Today we get ready to tackle the two-day hike to Laguna de los Tres. Technically, you could do this hike with a length of about 23 km in one day, but we want to be at the lagoon for the sunrise. So, we set up our campsite before the ascent to the lagoon and enjoy the afternoon with sleeping and the view of Mount Fitzroy slowly emerging from the clouds. The hike up to here is also very nice, not too steep, and offers beautiful landscapes. We cook soup with mushrooms and Fideli and wash up in the river. Roman goes to photograph the nearby river, 30 minutes away, the evening atmosphere is terrific. The night is short, the alarm goes off at 4:45...

6.2. We peel ourselves out of our sleeping bags and set off with only Amelia's flashlight. The ascent is quite steep but easy to find. We overtake dozens of people and are at the lagoon by 6:00, where there are already around 30 people, mostly Israelis who most likely hiked up from El Chalten during the night. They even brought board games to pass the time until sunrise! And of course, mate is a must.

The sky show is magnificent, we haven't come in vain! We quickly descend and pack up our tent and belongings. Breakfast consists of instant polenta with ham and cheese flavor that somehow manages to convince us.

The return trip is quickly done, and we are early enough in El Chalten to drop off our laundry at the laundromat and have lunch at Parilla Argentina where we enjoyed a wonderful dinner two days ago. Amelia books a massage for tomorrow and we go shopping for a bit. In the evening, we meet up with our border buddies Baruch and Veronica, with whom we spent 5 hours at the border with great conversations, for dinner. The two of them are truly unique and we get along great! They live outside of Seattle on an island and are very spiritual and alternative. So, they also sing a praise song for us in the restaurant before the meal and we tell each other what we are grateful for today... It is beautiful and intimate.

7.2. El Chalten

Today the weather is gloomy, windy, and wet. The obligatory breakfast at Café Nana is, of course, included. After that, Amelia goes to her massage appointment. Later, we take a short trip to the nearby waterfall, then head back to the village. I finally receive my recovery certificate from Chile, which I should have received 8 days ago. We try out a new brewery and stay for dinner, where Veronica and Baruch join us for the second time. As dusk sets in, a storm slowly approaches, and we decide to set up our (ground) tent and move after two hours in the roof tent. A wise decision to get some sleep.