7/12/2017: Highlights along the Milford Sound Highways

The alarm clock goes off at 6:00 am because we have a lot to do today and we want to avoid the tourist crowds at Milford Sound. It is 120 km to get there, and the journey to New Zealand's most famous fjord is already a sight in itself. However, we want to explore the many stops along the highway on our way back.

20 km before reaching our destination, we have to wait for 6.5 minutes at the single-lane, 1.2 km long Homer Tunnel. The road winds down for several kilometers in almost 90° curves until we finally reach Milford Sound and secure one of the coveted (given the daily influx of visitors), few parking spaces.

We walk along the shoreline and observe the many cruise ships that bring tourists into the arms of the fjord, where there are waterfalls and seals to admire. Several times, I ask Eric if he wants to go on board as this is a must for most New Zealand travelers, but he politely declines each time. I myself participated in such a boat trip in 2013 after my multi-day hike on the Milford Track, so I don't necessarily need to do it again. So, we simply decide to take the probably less noticed Milford Sound Foreshore Walk, observe kayakers, and wave away the annoying sandflies. At least the weather is much better than during my last visit four years ago. Only a few clouds cover the mountaintops, but otherwise the view is impeccable in one of the rainiest regions of New Zealand. On our way back to the car, we accidentally discover the promising Milford Sound Lookout Walk. After a few minutes of climbing stairs, we have a direct view of the frequently photographed and numerous postcard-worthy Milford Sound through the treetops. A crowning conclusion. We stroll back to the parking lot, which is now filled to the last spot. A visibly relieved Asian couple has a weight lifted off their shoulders when we answer their question of whether we are leaving in the affirmative. Back on the road, we encounter the 'dreaded' shuttle buses and dozens of vehicles heading towards two crowded visitor parking lots. Well, getting up early is definitely worth it.

The next stop, before passing through the Homer Tunnel again, is 'The Chasm,' a river that rushes through narrow stone walls with high speed, gaining even more force and producing roaring waterfalls. The observation platforms are accordingly loud.

At the Homer Tunnel, we have to wait again until the traffic light turns green after 6.5 minutes. And the journey continues.

After 15 km, I turn left into the parking lot 'The Divide,' where the official parking spaces are already fully occupied (mainly by day trippers). Since the weather is so nice today, I successfully sell Eric a day hike on the Routeburn Track, which we will start and hike in its entirety exactly here the day after tomorrow. First, we climb steeply through beech forest for 2.75 km, catching our breath and refreshing ourselves here and there with the natural mini water dispensers in the form of mossy cliffs from which water drips. Then we reach the junction to Key Summit, an optional side trip from the Routeburn Track (1 hour round trip), which is considered the best day hike in all of Fiordland. Here, the landscape changes and gives way to alpine grasslands. Key Summit offers a spectacular view over three valleys, the mountains, and a small mountain lake right in front of us. The perfect place for lunch. A few meters further, we even catch a glimpse of Lake Marian, which is nestled protected amidst the mountains. Here, like most others, we turn back and walk back to the parking lot. This means fewer kilometers for us the day after tomorrow, and if it rains, we can still successfully cross off this popular walk from our list.

Next on the agenda is the Lake Gunn Nature Walk, which is advertised as a 45-minute loop. The terrain is wonderfully flat, and the walk through the forest is nice but not particularly exciting. However, the detours to the lakeshore with a view of the shimmering blue water are worth it.

A photo stop doesn't really need a sign because you can't miss the colorful lupines that stretch along the Eglinton Rivers, automatically tempting every passerby to pull over on the right or left side of the road. Conveniently, the parking lot for the Lake Gunn Nature Walk is in the same location, so you can leave the car right away or only have to drive a few meters until the first camera click is heard. My love for lupines, which are unfortunately considered weeds in New Zealand, tempts us to take a long break and countless photos. Eventually, with a heavy heart, I tear myself away from the breathtaking sight because there are still about 80 km ahead of us and one last (short) stop.

The Mirror Lake is best visited in good, calm weather. Then it reflects the mountain panorama of the Earl Mountains behind it.

It is now late afternoon and time to head back home. Tired but also very happy because the weather has cooperated so well, we reach our hostel around 6:00 pm. Tomorrow we will take it easy.