Pubblicato: 22.11.2021
So I arrive in CĂĄdiz. It's warmer than in Madrid. Probably 18 degrees. The air smells like the sea and there is a wind that makes everything come alive.
I walk to my hostel towards the old town along the two kilometer long harbor. There I see many containers, buildings, two cruise ships, and the ferries that could take me to the Canary Islands.
The hostel is in a small alley and is a beautiful building with an atrium that goes up to the third floor. There is also a large rooftop terrace. I am delighted and after a shower in the bathroom next to my room, I feel like I'm in a luxury suite. Especially after spending the night on the steps next to the bus toilet.
Fresh and motivated, I make contact with some people. One Spaniard used to sail for a long time and now has a teaching position in African studies in CĂĄdiz. He is very excited about my plan and together we brainstorm how I can get on a boat. I have already searched the harbor for a marina with sailboats on Google Maps. I think I can find one here. There are four marinas in CĂĄdiz. CĂĄdiz is practically located on an island connected to the mainland. On the mainland side, I discover Puerto de Santa Maria. Here is Puerto Sherry, which looks promising on satellite images. The Spaniard also thinks Puerto Sherry is the harbor of the rich who might be able to take me with them. Since it's already dark and Puerto Sherry is not an option today, I decide to check out the marinas in CĂĄdiz.
I am in high spirits. People are bustling outside on the streets, in restaurants, and in small shops. It's Friday evening after all. I walk to the next marina, which takes about half an hour. Without the protection of the city, the wind blows strongly around my ears. The small street to the harbor area seems deserted, just like the area itself feels eerie. I find my way to the Real Club Nåutico de Cådiz. At the barrier to the marina, an old sailor greets me. He is relieved that he can speak Spanish with me and eagerly thinks about where someone could be who wants to go to the Canary Islands. In his marina, the sailboats only sleep or sail around the area at most. He refers me to the other three marinas. The closest one is Puerto América. Here, there are supposed to be international people who are most likely headed in that direction.
This harbor area is even more deserted, but I discover the office of the marina where the light is still on. The employee is very friendly, even though he doesn't know anyone who wants to go to the Canary Islands. I am allowed to leave a note on the bulletin board and go back towards the city. I haven't eaten anything yet and Puerto Sherry is waiting for me tomorrow.
I sleep in for once. I wake up at 10 o'clock and pack my things for today's expedition after a cold shower. I want to rent a bike so that I can check out the other two marinas and not have to walk the one and a half hours to Puerto Sherry from the ferry port in Puerto de Santa Maria.
At Las Bicis Naranjas, Manuel works. He's probably in his early thirties and very cool. He is interested in my plan, says that the old man from the Real Club has no clue, and knows people who can definitely help me. He even calls there directly and refers to me as his acquaintance. I get all excited and expect to hear back from the person he called. He will probably get in touch. He gives me two more numbers of sailing schools that are likely to know what's going on. And Puerto Sherry is a good idea. The other two marinas in CĂĄdiz are probably equipped with even smaller boats and are a dead end. So, Puerto Sherry it is...
Loaded with all sorts of information and possibilities, I ride to the ferry in CĂĄdiz, which takes 30 minutes to Puerto de Santa Maria. It arrives directly and I am on the water for the first time. The rocking, the bubbling water, the wind in my hair, and the slow distance from the city and the streets bring me joy. I stretch my body a bit because I haven't moved much today - and it's already noon. The few other passengers on the ferry are couples. Suddenly, I feel a sense of sadness. I am alone on my mission. And it would be nice to share it with someone... Then we arrive and I switch back to action mode. It's moving forward.
A bike path leads me along the beach directly to the harbor. I ask my way through the marina: from the Paddle Club to the first hotel, then to the sailing club, where I am told that there is a regatta and people will be back at 5:00 pm. I am sent to Enrique at the sailing school. Enrique also doesn't know anyone and tells me to leave a note at the restaurant. I do that, but quickly go back, otherwise, I will miss the ferry to CĂĄdiz. On the return journey by bike, a rainbow appears. I see it as a good omen and my euphoria as nourishing champagne!
On the ferry, I enjoy a moment of peace. I am filled with the many friendly and helpful faces of the day. I am also very satisfied with my work today. I feel like I have covered everything that was possible. This is what detective work must feel like: going from place to place, questioning people, gathering information, following the next lead, and crossing suspects off the list.
I am quite exhausted from my research, but in my mind, I continue to go through all the possibilities. If things don't work out with Egon, CĂĄdiz is off the table for me and I will continue to Gibraltar tomorrow. A Swiss sailor at Puerto Sherry said that there are more international people there who sail from the Mediterranean to the Canary Islands. In CĂĄdiz, there seem to be more local sailors. I couldn't reach anyone with the numbers from Manuel. If Egon really wants to take me, if he is likable, and if he might even continue to the Caribbean from the Canary Islands, then it's worth waiting for two weeks.
There is a lot going on in the hostel: a young Dutch boy is playing Flamenco virtuosly on his guitar in the dining room, some listen, others eat. In the kitchen next door, I cook myself a hearty meal while I get to know new, nice people and tell others who are already acquainted with my research results.
There is apparently a techno party in CĂĄdiz tonight. Still fueled by the euphoria of the day, I am motivated to dance. But after the eating session, fatigue takes over and I get lost in dice games in the kitchen before I can finally break free and fall asleep content.
Tomorrow, a lot will be decided...