Is this still Galicia or already Middle-earth?!

Galicia, 08.-11.04.25

The first of a total of four location changes is coming up, and we are heading from Cangas de Morrazo to the inland region of Allariz. And we all mourn the really beautiful apartment and the surroundings with chickens, cats, dogs, and wonderfully nice and accommodating landlords. What we will not miss is the mosquito plague that haunts us on Night No. 4, and especially Ida gets completely bitten again.

So, without further ado, and after a brief and heartfelt farewell, where Ida gives most of her attention to the chickens, we head about 1 1/2 hours west toward Ourense and just beyond to our destination, Allariz.

Upon arrival, we look for the tourist info (we are surprised that there even is one) to inquire about the possibility of exploring the local river by rowing boat to end the day with a little adventure.

However, it’s not possible... the super friendly, but somehow totally overwhelmed (the only) employee at this tourist point seems to have not expected any work in April and almost pulls down the entire filing of his desk to supply us with two or three dozen city maps. He also informs us that rowing will not be possible until July. So, seemingly not the high season here at the moment...

Generally, the little town appears to be beautifully adorned with houses that are 200-300 years old in the town center, cute little streets, and hidden shops, restaurants, and bars everywhere. But it is also completely empty. We feel like we are being watched suspiciously, wondering why such pale to red-skinned folks (too much sun yesterday) are roaming around at this time of year.

We enjoy it and instead of the planned rowing trip make a short excursion to Ourense, the largest city in the region.

Not the best idea, as it’s over 30 degrees in the sun, and we sneak from one shop to the next, looking for shady spots and naturally quickly grab the (according to Google) highest-rated ice cream in the city. But it doesn’t come anywhere near Trieste or Vigo! Not even close...

Back in Allariz, we opt against cooking and instead choose Fio de Liño, a small tapas restaurant in a former tailor’s cellar.

Ida has patatas fritas and chicken, while we enjoy a variety of tapas-size bites from “Enfilado” of croquetas (still no clue what that was even after eating...) to Chipirons á prancha (mini-octopus) to Crocantes de quiexo brie (something with brie)!

In any case, it’s mega delicious and surprisingly inexpensive. Stuffed but satisfied, we head to our new apartment, which, although only about six meters wide, spans three floors. It seems we’ve hit the jackpot again here.

Over the four days, however, we don’t meet the landlords; the handover is done via a key box!

The next day, we decide against our ecological heart and drive the 120 km back from the previous day to spend another day at the beach. It would surely be beautiful here in the mountains as well, but the desire for the sea with absurdly good weather for this time of year leaves us little to think about. Thus, we laze around on the beach as we did two days prior, using the fabulous hiking path for a little jog and venturing into the cold water longer than we did the first time!

Satisfied and feeling that we've made the right decision for the day, we return to Allariz in the afternoon. Once again, laziness wins over reason and we go directly across from the apartment into the Taberna do Milo.

We are lucky to snag the last available table, as the rest is completely packed with locals winding down the day with olives, wine, and beer.

Apart from the colossal language barrier on both sides, we feel almost like part of them. Although we can’t shake the feeling that our sign language and use of Google to order olives and bread are rather amusing some of the guests.

Overall, we have noticed on this trip that we hardly get anywhere with English, and much has to go through mobile translation.

Of course, we are also completely rudimentary when it comes to the Spanish language, but we thought at least ordering in a bar or restaurant would go more smoothly.

But it also shows us that this region in the northwest of the Iberian Peninsula (except for Santiago itself) perhaps really isn’t a destination for international mass tourism, so it is simply not necessary to speak more than Galician and Spanish here!

The next day, however, we want to utilize our time to explore why we have even ventured from the coast into the inland, namely the Ribiera Sacra!

This region is characterized by the two rivers Sil and Miño. Especially in the last kilometers before the Sil meets the Miño, it flows through an impressive canyon that is up to 500 meters deep, making the entire area a fascinating and extremely popular spot for hikers.

Even up to 2000 years ago, monks and hermits settled here, which is evident from the numerous recurring stone huts and various monasteries and churches!

In short, a dream destination for big and small adventurers!

Already at the beginning of our selected hiking route, chestnut groves, streams (which we naturally must cross), meadows full of gorse and ancient oaks, and paths along moss-covered stone walls alternate at what feels like minute intervals, and we are amazed every 100 meters anew by this beautiful and diverse landscape!

Fans of Lord of the Rings (like us) quickly feel reminded of the Shire and Rivendell, and whistling the title music we continue along the path and even discover barking deer (which seem quite bothered by us) and countless lizards.

We follow in Elrond's footsteps as we descend to the Mosteiro de Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil. An old and long-abandoned Benedictine monastery on the steep slope of the canyon, which can be accessed either on foot via a narrow path or by car (though this does spoil the scenery somewhat).

However, we are very lucky, and besides two driving Spanish tourists, we are alone, pay the gatekeeper two euros per adult, and enjoy a quick snack in the midst of the well-preserved monastery, relishing the quiet and daydreaming of Middle-earth!

We continue past several sometimes man-made and sometimes natural viewpoints over the gorge back to the parking lot, and we are thrilled by this little patch of earth and the fact that we haven't seen a single other hiker. Rarely on our journeys have we been able to enjoy such tranquility!

-> https://www.komoot.com/de-DE/tour/2152908531?ref=itd

Another reason to head to this area around Ourense are the hot springs of the city of Ourense itself and the associated thermal baths. Even the Romans knew how to use the springs for relaxation over 2000 years ago, and we want to do the same.

However, we want to avoid the city center with the Roman bath in our hiking attire, or rather, the bath would probably avoid US, so we look for a spa right by the river Miño.

After initial navigation difficulties, a short walk from the parking lot on the opposite side of the river, and a quick age correction for Ida (instead of her 10 years, she is now a proud 11, otherwise, we wouldn't have been able to get in --> “how old?” “Eleven” “okay”), we finally step into the 40-degree warm water. What a relief after the hike...

It is specifically pointed out to limit the bathing session to a maximum of 90 minutes, which we find amusing.

Who can actually manage to endure that for 90 minutes if they don't want to end up as a lobster on a plate?

We manage 15 minutes, then into the cold pool and again into the “only” 35-degree warm pool for the after-bathe!

All in all, a fantastic and most importantly free experience, which is definitely worth having!

On the way back to Allariz, the weather finally turns as announced, and it pours down rain. The temperature also drops surprisingly fast to only 17 degrees instead of the previous 28.

Time for us to leave this very primitive and cozy place behind.

We head north for two nights to O Castro to a dome house in the middle of nowhere!

¡Estatemos en contacto!