Don Curry and the Elephant Prison

Don Curry is outraged. But not only him, the group is in agreement: that was not good! They were actually looking forward to this program point, but what they saw not only fell short of all expectations, it could rightly be called terrible or outrageous.

They don’t mean the breakfast buffet at the beach hotel in Calicut. Obviously, that couldn't meet the standards of the Orange County Resorts Kabini in any way, but at least it offered a lot of food. Don Curry would never call himself a breakfast person, so he usually settles for some cereal and a few pieces of fruit, preferably papayas. After the usual early start, the plan was to drive along the Kerala coast far south today.

After covering half the distance, they reached the city of Guruvayur. It can boast of having the largest and most important Hindu temple in Kerala; however, non-Hindus are not allowed to enter. The temple also oversees an extensive area where about 70 active and former temple elephants are kept. The thought of being able to get close to so many of these majestic animals had sparked anticipation in the group. This could be a real highlight of the trip. But reality triggered completely different feelings. They were miles away from treating the animals in a species-appropriate manner here. Each elephant was tethered with massive stakes attached to one front leg and one hind leg, so the animal had no opportunity to move at all. It stood in its own feces and urine all day long and could only helplessly move its head back and forth. One elephant was so aggressive that it threw everything it could reach with its trunk far away. Two other animals were even squeezed into two small, solid wooden cages, so they were unable to move at all, not even shake their heads. The sight of these 70 tormented creatures in a dreary and dirty area was clearly considered the low point of the trip. Guide Gauror tried to downplay it by saying that the animals are only tethered like this from 9:00 to 17:00 to ensure the safety of visitors; once the visiting hours end, they can move freely around the area. Nevertheless, Don Curry and the group found it highly questionable that people would want to make money from the suffering of these animals. They would rather exclude all visitors! After just a few glances at this misery, no person with even a hint of empathy could stay there with a clear conscience.

The other activities of the day turned out to be far less controversial, but they also didn't really convince. In Kodungallur, they visited the oldest mosque in India at the special request of one of the group members. However, behind this superlative was a rather modern-purpose building without any architectural significance. Although it was the site of the oldest mosque in India and the second oldest in the world, the representative of the Muslim community couldn't say which number replacement building this one was. He preferred to stick with his mantra of the oldest mosque in India, which he proudly repeated all too often. The attached museum turned out to be a strange collection of Islamic banknotes from around the world, small models of famous mosques, and memorabilia from previous buildings of the current mosque. Don Curry retreated in boredom and preferred to listen to the English lesson in the room next door.

But Kodungallur not only houses the supposedly oldest mosque in India, but also the supposedly oldest church on the subcontinent, founded by the Apostle Thomas shortly after his arrival in India in 52 AD. The bus maneuvered at a snail's pace through the narrow entrance lanes to the church. When they finally reached their destination, the group stood in front of St. Peter's Basilica. At least the Thomaskirche had been modeled after the Roman counterpart with its white dome and side apostle balustrades, albeit on a much smaller scale. This oldest church in India was therefore only a few decades old, it was only the location that carried the tradition of being founded by Thomas. At least relics of the apostle were kept inside, and the overall impression of the colorful church interior could be described as pleasing.

Just a few kilometers further, in Palayur, another church founded by the Apostle Thomas can be found. Although it appears to be much older than the Petersdom imitation in Kodungallur, an inscription next to the entrance portal immediately reveals that it is the fifth recently renovated successor building of the original church. In front of the church, a member of the Christian community explained in great detail the miracles by which Thomas once managed to win over the very reserved Hindu population for the Christian faith. In the church, Don Curry observed a young woman thoroughly mopping the floor. While the man gradually approached the end of his storytelling, the young woman also approached the entrance of the church and thus the completion of her task. They both finished at the same moment: the storytelling man received polite applause, and the woman satisfactorily placed the bucket with the mopping water outside - finally off work, she probably thought. But then the storyteller invited the group to visit the church; as always in India, one enters a place of worship without shoes, but bare or socked feet also leave their mark on a freshly mopped floor. The facial expression of the young woman said it all: somewhere between astonishment and amused frustration - she probably would have liked to hand the storyteller the mop bucket...

The small church certainly had a special atmosphere, but the latest renovation had introduced modern or rather kitschy elements that seemed out of place. Nothing in its design referenced the beginning of Christianity in India anymore. Right next door, they had built a huge parish church where evening worship was being celebrated with hundreds of believers on a weekday – a very vibrant church, thought Don Curry. And to him, this flourishing present seemed much more important than historically accurate references to legendary beginnings in a glorified past.

It wasn't until after nightfall that the bus reached the hotel in Cochin, more precisely in Ernakulam, the modern part of the city of millions. At the overflowing dinner buffet, Don Curry finally enjoyed a Kingfisher Strong, a sweeter and smoother version of the famous Indian beer with 8% alcohol content. The elephants of Guruvayur would now be able to move freely in the area, if Guide Gauror was really right. It is only tomorrow that they will face foot shackles and solitary confinement under the most degrading conditions again. Don Curry is still outraged...