Week 6 - Nelson + Abel Tasman Coast Walk

After Picton we took the bus to Nelson, a small town from which I had unfortunately hoped for a little more. Actually quite cute, but unfortunately very deserted, so the atmosphere there is a bit dead. I also think that NZ is very similar to America in that everyone gets around in cars and there are huge parking lots at the supermarkets. Sometimes you are completely alone on the streets. I mainly used my time in Nelson to prepare for the five-day hike through the Abel Tasman National Park. It is one of the 'Great Walks' where you can either camp at night or pre-book a bed in the huts. Since I already had to get enough stuff and didn't want to buy another tent and lug it around, I decided on the huts. These are very basic equipped and in this case have no light, electricity or gas on site. So I went from store to store in Nelson and picked up a gas stove, gas cartridges, a small pot and a headlamp. I had already bought a sleeping bag for the Tongariro, which unfortunately failed. I also went to the supermarket for ages and planned my meals, since you need quite a lot for 5 days. But I'm really enjoying the whole preparation process! You can also do the hike in fewer nights and simply increase the daily workload by skipping huts, but I initially took the easiest option possible because I also wanted to swim in between, etc.

Day 1:

Nelson 🚐-> Marahau 🥾-> Anchorage Hut (12.4km)

On the first day my shuttle came to the hostel at 7:20am and of course the driver was German😂 and from Leipzig! But somehow she had been in NZ for ages and had a very German accent in English but an English accent in German (?!). There were also two Australian women and a Kiwi woman in my shuttle with whom I spent a lot of time over the next few days, as they took almost exactly the same route as me. It is also possible to get to and from individual bays in this national park with water taxis or kayaks, so everyone takes completely different routes.

The first hike lasted about 4 hours, which isn't actually much, but is noticeable with a 10kg backpack. However, it is getting lighter and lighter because half of the backpack initially consisted of food and in the end it was just garbage, which you always have to take with you.

The path was really beautiful and despite the forecast 12 degrees and clouds, it was totally pleasantly warm and sunny (typical NZ). The special thing about this national park is the yellow/golden sand, due to the granite rock, which contains more iron, and runs along the entire national park. This offers views of blue water, yellow beaches and bright green palm trees and plants:

I really felt the backpack for the last hour of the hike and was happy when we arrived at the hut at 1:30 p.m., which completely exceeded my expectations! I wouldn't say it was much worse than a hostel. Super clean and beautifully simply furnished, even with different rooms, so you don't have as many roommates. When we arrived, there was still a day tour group there with a catered lunch buffet and there was even something left over for us. So a much better meal than expected after the hike. Jumped straight into the sea (cold as hell) and then I ran away on the beach for 2 hours😴😴

And it was almost dinner time, where everyone first had to get to grips with their equipment and think about how much drinking water they should boil, etc. You always have to be on your guard here, because there are nasty chickens 'Wekas' that are constantly around you Legs walk and look at you with their red eyes and above all steal EVERYTHING that comes into their beak!! They quietly sneak up on the target object and run away like crazy😂😂 I then slept like a baby in the evening😅

Day 2:

Anchorage Hut 🥾-> Bark Bay Hut (approx. 13km)

On the second day, a slow morning was mandatory because the first part of the hike could only be crossed at low tide, which didn't start until around 11 a.m. that day. That's why I sat on the beach first thing in the morning, where a school class (what a school trip!) was doing Maori dances, meditation and other exercises. Then in the morning I walked a small loop from the hut to a viewpoint, which felt like floating without a backpack. The long hike was also pretty easy as the paths here are extremely well maintained and mostly flat. I have to say I really like hiking alone because you can really just walk at your own pace and enjoy nature. I even saw a 'Kaka' parrot right at the beginning, but unfortunately I couldn't take a picture. Unfortunately it was too cold to swim, but the fireplace in the hut was turned on and my Yum Yum Ramen soups tasted much better in the cold 🍜 My Kindle also gets its money's worth here!

Day 3:

Bark Bay Hut 🥾-> Awaroa Hut (13.5km)

Since everyone here wakes up at 7, I wake up at 7 too. Some leave very early and others take forever to make breakfast. The New Zealander from the first day gave me her number in case I needed anything or wanted to spend the night with her in Wellington, so sweet!🥹 For the first time real exertion on the hike, as it was up and down almost the whole day. When going uphill, you quickly notice the extra weight, so I've already mentally eliminated half of it from my backpack for my next walk. Unfortunately the weather was very cold, gray and rainy. Above all, the rain was particularly heavy on the beach stage after walking for hours between the trees. At every rest bench the wekas run around your legs, so you can't really relax while taking a break🐓. What I like here is that you can go on small additional hikes every day and decide on your route spontaneously, as the daily workload is not that high. Today the special thing was that there was a more expensive lodge 30 minutes from our hut, with a cafe and fireplace. There I drank some hot chocolate and warmed up. You always meet the same people from the previous huts and now you know most of their faces. When we arrived at the new hut, we immediately unpacked the snacks. The clouds hung super low here:

There are also far fewer backpackers than expected. Mainly New Zealanders and Australians who are only on vacation for a week, and a lot of Americans with loud voices 😃 from CaLIfOrnIa

Day 4:

Awaroa Hut 🥾-> Whariwharangi Hut (16.9km)

Day 4 was the most varied and longest day of all. First everyone had to wait for the tide to go out to cross the first bay. Unfortunately it wasn't until 3 p.m. that day, which is why you couldn't get to the other side until 1 p.m. at the earliest. To do this, we first waded through cold water that was almost waist-high:

Afterwards we went to Totaranui Bay for two hours. The fourth day made a big impact on me and I took a dip in the sea. After that things got better straight away and I set off. It was quite up and down because you always walk up a hill, then down and then along the beach along the bay. And this about 5-6 times. As beautiful as the beach is, walking on the sand is even more strenuous! I struggled quite a bit for the last hour because I now have a few blisters on my feet.

The huts became smaller and cozier day by day and every evening we waited for the sunset with a fireplace and candlelight🔥

Day 5:

Whariwharangi Hut 🥾-> Wainui Bay 🚐-> Nelson (5.7km)

On day 5 there were only a few kilometers left to run. In the morning a Canadian couple gave me their leftover camping meals (one just costs $17 🙄), super nice! They will then be used on the next walk. The Australian girls gave me their coffee and powdered milk, now I'm basically equipped. In the morning there was also a Hungarian guy who said that he jogged the whole walk in 2 days😨

Well, whatever, I went and chilled on the beach at Wainui Bay and cooked myself lunch with my leftover gas. But somehow there were a lot of sand flies at the start that bit like mosquitoes, which is why I couldn't really relax.

At the beginning and end of the path there are always 'Waharoa' gates that you pass through, which indicate the migration of earlier immigrants and now stand as a welcome to the national park:

The two Australian women were also sitting in the shuttle back, with whom the walk was really fun and their accent is really funny😂 Overall, I really enjoyed the hike and I'm already looking forward to the next one!! Now let's have two relaxing days and tomorrow we'll head to the next city!