From Slow Traveling Through the USA 2021/22

USA Update:

A few weeks ago, while sitting on the bus from #Cleveland to #Chicago, something within me said that I could just write about what came to mind regarding four weeks in #NewYorkCity. I didn’t realize that even on the upcoming longer journeys, something within me would overflow onto a blank page. Now, I’m at the airport in #DC and still can’t believe that I am supposed to be back tomorrow morning (German time).

I love the #traveling, the freedom, the ability to reinvent and create, the foreignness, arriving, setting out. Traveling in the true sense. In recent days, I have taken many notes; first for myself, then for a text, an update, a way to let others participate; a kind of conclusion of the USA updates; about what I could, wanted, and needed to write about. About the luxury of traveling (and being able to travel), the fact that I am a lucky child with all the privileges; about the many homeless people on the streets, about all the visible, felt poverty, and the stark contrast: monumental buildings, money that is likewise more than visible, and the contrast between tent cities and dream cities; the contradiction between nothing and people who beg (have to) in an extremely beautiful and quiet area on Capitol Hill. The enormous divide is frightening – and also fascinating in a negative sense. I had to – like I haven't in years – think back to my (quasi) return journey from New Zealand to Germany: 2009 West Coast USA; there was still the vibe of “Now everything will change! Obama will change it!”, but what really changed? And what can I as an outsider truly see and recognize? The last two months here have been, alongside beautiful and intense work – which hasn’t felt that way – particularly encounters with people – very selective and sensitive to COVID-19; I remember conversations where I was awkwardly, almost anxiously, asked how badly the image of the USA in the world, but also personally for me, was ruined – and is being ruined – by Trump. At the same time, I see two students, barely 16, still before me on the way to the National African American Museum. One wears a cap saying “Trump – I’ll be back – 2024”, the other with “Let’s go Brandon”. We were too early; they were waiting with their class. I was close to talking to the two; somehow it would have been exciting, but how does one even start such a conversation? And what did I really want to know or perhaps even achieve? I couldn’t answer the questions and remained silent instead – now I’m annoyed. A conversation would have at least been interesting for me. Perhaps for them too? Lastly, I had the thought that I was not just in the USA. I was in the USAs – in the plural; diversity in every respect and not always beautiful, although often fascinating and impressive. One of my places of yearning has been and is the USA/USAs, but they don't have to be, nor was that the goal of the journey; as nothing really ever has to be. I am grateful for the experiences – and that in the most literal sense: an experience of the USAs, in many parts a journey – a pair of shoes have stayed here; the soles had become loose; then also a discussion and a deepening – I haven't worked so long and intensely in so many different archives for a while, but I haven’t talked to so many strangers, genuinely exchanged content and truly connected, in a long time. And that is – as often – the most valuable and beautiful aspect of traveling: with Yonit and Paul, who gave me a particularly artistic insight into Chicago, and with whom I had such wonderful conversations; Kris, who similarly shared her family story with me, introduced me to Maryland, and imitated the Polish accent in her grandmother's English; Helen, who showed me DC and provided a striking and almost private access to the USHMM; the Uber and Lyft drivers in Chicago and Detroit, who, through conversations, opened little windows into each of the other “USAs”; the many great museums that have inspired me for my further work, especially the National African American Museum, the National Museum of American Indians, and the Illinois Holocaust Museum. Lastly, since some have asked me from time to time: besides the actual experience of being on the move, I will especially miss the Mexican food!

Very fitting in my ears: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V9NhncU5_CE

And since many other things won't fit, just a list of my notes: It smells like grass everywhere! The density of FFP2/KN95 masks increases depending on how wealthy the street is, and the thought that I notice that especially men over 50 don’t wear masks. The long and slow journeys are a luxury. Signs for climate change and once again, Black Lives Matter in front gardens; very helpful people; everything is paid by card – I think it's great!

I am grateful – and I am very much looking forward to – and to the public transport in Europe.